The Lehner will end up going in another savage project. (I have a Savage XL I want to convert).
I have a question though, does anyone know of a BEC that will take 12s input voltage?
I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Quark-Pro-BEC-5A...QQcmdZViewItem , it takes up to 55v, but it's only 5 amps, would that be enough? I'm only going to be running one servo (Hitec HS-5955TG)

I wouldn't use that BEC. You could try this:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...BEC_for_Lipoly

That thing is only rated for 42v, I think I would fry it on 12s.
I'll just go with a receiver pack if I can't find one.

It was nuts. I ran it today really quick to show Arct1k how it is. Too fast and it puts down montrous amounts of power.

Well I just got the HV-110 in the mail, and all I have to say is... DAMN!
If there was a car version of this with a hard case, it would sell like hotcakes. This thing looks like a monster, the 10 AWG wire helps, as do the 6 capacitors. Now I have to wait for the Neu and order a PiStix and I will have a ton of power in my hands. :party: I already feel naughty! :diablo:

I have the HV Hercules BEC it is rated for 60v I havnt used it yet but its in the plan with a HV110 ESC...heres a link

http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=4667

Oh nice!
Will it be enough though with only 3.5 amps of cont. current?

That HV-110 is very nice in the Savage... It's extremely smooth and the power delivery is perfect when you get it set up. Feels just like a car controller aside from the lack of motor brakes.

I think so, especially when you will be pushing 40+ volts through it, if your not comfortable with the Hurcules HV they do have a higher amp model but the voltage goes down and also there is the Koolflight

heres the Hercules 5 amp 45v model
http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=4666

and the Koolflight

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ubec.htm

Good to know :yes: I think I will like mech brakes more than motor braking anyways. They just have a different feel.
I'm itching to get this whole project done, but I still have to wait on a few components to get in before I can finish the drawings. I'm sure I'll have it finished somewhat soon though.
As for the drawings, I have the motor mounts 100% done, and I am looking to finish the battery trays and the components going along with them tonight. So far I'm on schedule. :wink:

Oh, also. 12s fresh off the charger turns out to be 50.4v
The HV-110 is rated for 50v, although it says it will handle 12s. I should be fine, right?

Castle has a tendency to under rate thier products, and if there is a problem it probubly wont arm but I think you will be ok

:yes:So, I have, for the most part, finished all of the basic drawings. Everything is blocky, and there are no holes placed yet, but everything is in place. I have run into a bit of a problem, though. I can fit on a rear brake on the center diff without any problems, but I will not be able to fit one on the front unless I extend the chassis another 20mm (40mm if I want equal weight distribution). The chassis is already extended 62mm longer than the FLM Extended TVPs, so I really don't want to extend it any more. So I am thinking about putting a brake on the output of the front diff. So the question is: does anyone know if there is an existing kit that will allow me to do this? I've done some searching around, but I have had no luck. If there is no kit, I can probably draw one up in Solidworks without too much difficulty, but that means that I'd have to wait longer to finish the drawings, because I'd have to order brakes and measure them and such.
Thanks!

Here are a few pictures of the basic layout for those interested, it's all just basic blocks right now, but I just want to get everything ligned up correctly before I do the holes/reduce the block-age. I personally like this layout much more, plus there's more power in it! I think tht this is just cleaner too, it was much easier to work with SW the second time. If you have any suggestions or anything strikes you as possibly a weak link, let me know.

Trimetric View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV21.png

Front View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV22.png

Side View:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV23.png

View without the battery covers or gears (at least, the cylinders that take place of the gears):
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k.../SavageV24.png

And here is what I have for the speed calc, I can get anywhere from 10:1 to 25:1, so I have enough gearing options I think. :yes:
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.3636363636363636363636363636364
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 38
Pinion Tooth Count: 17
Total Voltage: 44.4
Motor KV: 1150
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.9
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 100
Motor coil Ω: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.24 : 1
Total Ratio: 17.47594 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.68 inches (550.6 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 51060 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 59.98 mph (96.34 km/h)
Estimated Adjusted Speed: 55 mph (89 km/h) - 8% loss
Effective KV Value: 1150
KT constant: 1.18 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.61 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 10.7 ft-lbs
Final Power: 4440 watts (6 HP)

Looks real good, ive been watching this thread and can't wait to see this finished product, should be really awesome :intello:

One question, what difference is there between running a 1527/1D (2300kv) on 6s and a 1527/2D (1150 kv) on 12s. They'll both be running the exact same rpms, will one get more runtime or pull more amps or something??

cheers
jordan

Thanks! I can't wait for it to be finished either. I'll have it before the year ends if I want to fulfill my New Year's resolution (which I very much do, :) )

From what I know, (which isn't much compared to a lot of people on this site) the more volts a system runs, the more efficient it is. I don't really quite know why, but I think it is because a higher voltage system will pull less amps, causing reduced heat and less power loss. Also, (from what I know) in order to get the same performance, the 1527/1D running on 6s would require the batteries to provide more amps, so to match the performance of the higher voltage system, you'd have to run 6s2p. There is also the matter of watts, too. If the 12s setup pulls 100 amps, and the 6s setup pulls 100 amps, the 12s setup will provide more power. Granted, the two motors probably wouldn't pull the same amount of amps, as far as I know. Maybe somebody else can clarify for you as I'm not 100% sure on most of this, haha. :neutral:

I also just like running Higher Voltage setups because they are a bit more unique. :wink:

The higher the turn on the motor the higher the torque. A HV set up will run more efficient and will require less AMPs to produce the same power the 6S set up would.

One example is, if you want 3500 watts out of both set ups this is what you need to do:

3500/22.2=157.66A (You'll need 157.66A to make the 3500 watts)
3500/44.4=78.83A (You'll need 78.83A to make the 3500 watts)

AMPs is the cause of heat, not voltage. So by lowering the AMPs used, you'll also lower the temps and make for a very long lasting set up. Too bad ROAR can't see the benefits of it.