I'm not going to use a 5700, but the GM-Racing I'll be using is 6100kv. I ordered a 12T and 13T, so I should be able to hit a good middle ground with one of those. I'm running the same motor in a T4 at 38mph with temps under 140F for both the motor and ESC after 30 minutes of running in low grass in 90F weather. With the 12T pinion, I should realistically be around 35-36mph, but will have to keep a check on my temps to see how the motor handles it. I'll definitely throw my GPS on it when I get it running (hopefully this weekend since my pinions should be in by then).

Alright guys, I talked to a friend that is really into brushless to see if he had any motors he wanted to sell. He has a FDM 10L and a Lehner basic XL 3100. He actually gave them to me to try out. If I want them he said $50 for each, $100 for the pair. One has 5min runtime on it, the other one has 6min runtime on it, so they are practically brand new! Should I just get them both? I have no way of testing them now though. What do you all think?

Thanks

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I'd say if you trust him, buy them. The price is right!

I might even buy one off you if you didn't want it.

I trust him, he's cool, so I guess I'll get both. Also the basic XL is pretty short, the same size as the MM motor, I thought it would be bigger(and that's not what she said):005:...

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Well, I got a pack's worth of runtime at the track this afternoon. Wow, it's fast! I geared down to 12T and it was still too fast for the small track in town here. Temp of the ESC was still kinda high, but it was 92*F outside and in direct sunlight. So, I'm thinking of getting a 6 or 7L motor, or equivalent longer motor with ~3500-4000kv.

Which motor are you running? I can't remember and 25 pages is too much to look back through. :)

The 4600. Motor temps were ok, but the ESC was quite warm, which means overgeared. And I'd like to run the larger 2.2" wheels so that will just heat it up more. The track I was running on requires a lot of quick acceleration because it is kinda tight with jumps right after turns. So, I'm thinking an L size motor would be better for the added torque. I wish Mike has more options for those Lehner basics. I was thinking about using a 1920, but will probably have the same issue as I do with the current setup.

I can't believe that it was overgeared with a 12T pinion on the 4600. This is on 2S right? Have you thought about swapping the 4600 from your Jato into it to see if it performs the same? I've seen quite a number of people lately on various forums with problematic MM motors. I'd be willing to bet that a better motor would run the truck with ease.

Truthfully, I'm surprised too. I have a 5700 I could try which would be easier to do. Like you pointed out, the Jato is heavier but runs just as fast with the same exact setup. However, the CRT hooks up much better which would present a heavier load on the system. Still, it's a head scratcher all right. I may look at a 1920, but it's kind of expensive if it's not going to work any better.

Brian, I'm really liking both the 10L and Basic XL 3100. My motor mount, pinion, and other stuff should be here by Friday-Saturday and I should have it going by this weekend. So, I'll let you know how everything runs.(temps and such)

Bye:018:

EDIT - Oh yeah, I'll be running a MM esc too...

I would bet the Basic XL would be the best bet since it is a better quality motor. I was going to look into one of those, but Mike doesn't carry them anymore apparently.

Email him. He might have some still sitting around. I dont think they were fast movers for him.

I think I will at some point.

You guys with all your CRT talk, i'm gonna have to get one now!! Oh well what a pity nevermind!! :018:

Hey Brian, I finally got my CRT.5 running! Temps with the 10L geared 20/46 on 3s were as follows: Motor 125f, Lipo 100f, ESC 110f. This was after about 30min of runtime in 85f+ heat. What CD oil are you running? I found that the stock oil was to light. I'm running 80% 50k, 10% 10k, and 10% 120k. It's a little thick (almost wheelies at any speed), I'm thinking of 100% 30k in there...
Also, do you think this is over geared with a Lehner Basic XL 3100?

Differential Ratio: 3.25
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 11.1
Motor KV: 3100
Tire Diameter (inches): 3.6
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.3 : 1
Total Ratio: 7.475 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 11.31 inches (287.27mm)
Total Motor Speed: 34410 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 49.3 MPH (79.2km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 4.44mph/V (7.13kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 3100

BTW I'll post up a thread on it later today or tomorrow...

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Those temps are really good for that speed and runtime! I would keep it right where it is. Makes me want to dump the MM motor for an XL basic, or maybe a 1920/7 (but may be a tad too small). I'd really like to go with a Basic XL 4200 or 3600. I guess I'm gonna have to call Mike and beg him to get one. :)

I'm running 50k in the center. It can wheelie but I have enough weight pushed forwards that it's not a real problem unless I really get on it.

Brian, those temps are with the 10L not the XL3100, sorry my post might have been hard to read:002: . I was just asking if you thought the XL3100 would be over geared with that pinion. I have yet to run the XL3100, but I'll hook it up tonight though.

Bye

lol, ok. Well, why not simply leave that motor in there and sell me the Basic XL? ;) Seriously, I think they are about the same size, but the 3100 is probably a bit more efficient.

I have to test the motor for you don't I:005:? Also, the basic XL is nearly the same size as the MM motor and about 1/2" shorter than the feigao L sized motor...

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Yup, you do need to test both. That way I know what I need to get. :)

Brian, I finally put the Basic XL3100 in the .5. I ran it for about 15min and temps were as follows: Motor 145f, ESC 137f, Lipo 110. I think that was pretty good considering that it was geared for about 50mph(20t pinion). Also, this motor geared with a 15-16 pinion should be right on the money on 3s. I put the 10L back in right now until I can get a smaller pinion.

BTW I put 10k CD oil in it and it still wheelies(but less than before). I'm going to get 5k and see if that helps. Also, the 10L has noticeably more torque than the XL3100. I think that an L sized motor or one of the new Lenher XXL motors(are they even out yet?) are really what you need for this truck.

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Well, that's kinda good in a way as an L motor is cheaper than a XL Basic motor. :)

Yeah, I think I'll only run the Basic XL3100 to race my friend who has a crt.5 with a OS .18tz!

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Hmm. Mike only has the 9L in stock. I was hoping for a 7L since I'm running 2s. Hopefully he has more laying around that's not listed in the store.

Brian, I ran the crt.5 again with the 10L and maxamps 3s 4000 pack. I hooked up the eagle tree to it and found some interesting numbers. Apparently the 4000's are not really 20c, more like 10-12c. Disappointing to say the least. What do you think, here is the graph. 64 amps and the pack voltage drops down to 9.7! I thought these were supposed to do 80 amps continuous, 120 amps sustained, and 200 amps burst...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...raphforcrt.jpg

Wow, that IS a pretty good size dip of 3.23v/cell. Was that dip towards the end of the pack? If so, it makes sense...

It was just before the 10min mark. I've gotten about 30min out of this pack so 1/3 of its pack life.

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Very interesting I'm running the Maxamps 3s 4000 pack in my CRT.5 also and with the Mamba Max 5700 geared for speed runs the pack was getting warm around 120deg and I noticed it melted the shrinkwrap on the end a little? I just got a Eagle tree and need to figure out how to use it? I swaped motors and put a Neu 1506 5000kv in and the highest temps I have seen in the 4000 pack has been 105deg when I get the Eagle tree figured out I want to drop the 5700 back in and see what kind of amps it pulls compared to the Neu? :)

subscribing.........

I'm running 1000-1000-500 in mine. I used Jammin Jay's set up for a starting point. I really haven't strayed much other than now having truck tires on it and being brushless. :005:

Thanks for the tip, I put 5k in the cd and ran it a little and it still wheelies but much less than before.

Also Brian, I put the Basic XL3100 back in with a 15tooth pinion and it seems a little more drivable at lower speeds than the 10L. It doesn't heat up as much either(still need to do further testing though).

One more thing, while running 3s in my .5 I get glitching. When the .5 is about 100 feet from me it nails on the brakes for a split second. It does this in different cars with different motors, just not on 2s. Would this be a BEC problem? It happened to me while I was at about top speed and it made the .5 do an endo(front flip) and cartwheel for about 100 feet, breaking a rear a-arm in the process. I got new ones coming from nitrohouse.com. Little things like this really get me all:019: :mad:1 :007: ya know?

Sorry for the rant!
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sounds like the 10l is the way to go?

id just always run 6 or 7 cells, for now just 6 tho, 6 matched and zapped ib 4200's wce, i run them in my cyclone, and i cant afford anything else lol

i want to use my mm 5700 tho, will it run cool? well under 150 160? after like 15 20 mins?

I spoke with Mike several days ago and I think I'l go with a 1930/7 motor. The larger size and better quality will really help I think. When I get ready to order, I'll see what the price difference is between the 1930 and a basic XL.

Whenever I see any problem like this that appears only with higher voltage, I would immediately suspect the built-in BEC. It might simply be heating up due to the higher voltage of 3s and whatever servo load you have. You can try a receiver pack to see if it still happens. If it stops, you can then pick up a small UBEC. The dimension engineering ParkBEC would be ideal for this application and is very small.

Brian, I would definitely go with the 1930, not the BasicXL. Mine feels a little sluggish compared to the 10L.

Also I called CC about the problem with my MM esc. We narrowed it down to be the battery. First I changed the RX and channel, didn't work. Then I put in a receiver pack, it didn't work. After I changed the esc to another MM, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK!!!! I finally changed the TX, and nothing, it still glitches. I tried different motors and different cars too, didn't help. It does not glitch on 2s, only on 3s. So, it must be the battery! CC thinks that there is a short in the pack or something like that. I don't know it's weird. I think I will have to try another 3s pack. Can anyone think of why this is happening?

Thanks

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Yeah, I probably will end up with the 1930, although I'll need a pretty low wind for 2s...

When you say glitching, do you mean the servo, or how the truck moves? I assumed you meant the servo acts erratically.

When I said glitching what was happening is that it would slam full brakes at one time or another. This makes driving very difficult and hard on the drivetrain. For example, I would be cursing along when it would suddenly slam the brakes for a split second, this would happen at half throttle or full throttle, not really at low throttle though. I do not think I am tripping the LVC either. Castle says if there is a short in the battery I could be intermittently resetting the esc. I don't know what to do, except that the next battery I am getting for this will be a flightpower.

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That is odd. Do you have a failsafe (or Spektrum) that is set to brake when the radio loses signal? But then again, the receiver pack should have cured that. I didn't think the MM went full brake when it "rebooted".

Nope, no failsafe. I mean two different cars, two different servos, three different motors, two different esc's, two different radios(both FM), and two different receivers and the problem persists with the 3s not the 2s. So, the only thing it could be is the battery.

Bye:018:

That brake slam thing does happen to me also once in a while and I have heard others say the same thing. But I'm running a Neu.... I don't recall it happening with a Castle motor. But I have seen similar but more subtle glitches with a stock MM combo in a 1/10 buggy.

That is very strange because the same is happening to me. I have only ran one battery pack through the buggy, and when I get going fairly fast, and then let it coast. The brakes somehow just lock up or the gears or something. I thought it was because I didn't have enough oil in the center diff (which I didn't) but now the center diff is rebuilt and I am waiting for my Spektrum radio system and charger to see if it will still do it.