So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:

Cool temps huh. :005:

i have to still measure the heatsink temp (always forget) but since the glue mod the quark itself is nicely hot

Wow, the caps effectively not being there could certainly cause the cogging. But, I think the burnt FETs was caused by the extreme currents during the cogging. A domino effect...

MetalMan, did the cogging problem get better as you increased the timing? The little note that came with my 1512 1.5Y says that the Neu is a four pole motor and it advises you to use "mild" timing. I'm sure that they are talking about helicopter controllers, so I'm wondering if helicopter controllers use the same timing curves as car controllers.

I first set my timing to lowest and cogging was rather nasty. I bumped it up to normal and it got better. I'm wondering if going to highest will be even better, but don't want to hurt my motor.

BTW, did you hardwire the motor? I'm using 5.5mm connectors, but will hardwire if it will make a difference.

I think i might have some matching shoes for the truck now.. :p

Yeah, and maybe the cap I had on there (10,000uF, 25v) was not good enough for the Quark then? I was looking closer at the caps leads, I can't tell if they are melted off, or broken off, this doesn't make any sense?! :032:

zpb, I really believe that they is a string of Quarks that just weren't built properly. It's just odd that so many have had good luck with theirs, but ours have crapped out the way that they did.

Yeah, I agree, I had a couple of solder joints that were near cold solders.

I really don't want any controller other than the Quark, but if this keeps up... I might just snatch up a MM.

Well, I do have my Compro 16016 coming back soon. Like I said, it does appear to be built better than the Quark. I'm hoping that my new Compro doesn't have any issues.

From the experience that I had with the Compro, it is a nice controller and runs COOL.

Think my problem
here
could be cap realated

How many people on here use the compro escs? The look rather good, and arent too unreasonable price wize. As for brake fading issues- that sucks, but I guess it is asking alot for the motor to be a powerful brake too- something to be said for mech brakes afterall, even if they do take up space/weight....

It was with 4 caps. I haven't compared the performance with/without caps on the current 14/44 gearing, but I could. So, I don't currently know what the difference is. Although, the fan on the MM stopped spinning, and the MM was running very cool (118).

I didn't have time to play with any settings at the track yesterday. My Revo had a problem that took a while to fix, and then the servo's wire ripped on the Hyper 8, then the heatsink on the Revo's MM came off, then I swapped the Revo's servo into the Hyper 8, and the Hyper 8's battery dumped. And then it was time to go home. Next time I can play around with the settings on the Hyper 8 and see if timing or startup power have any significant effects. The motor is hardwired.

If I were you, I wouldn't worry about setting the MM's startup power to high, considering how cool my MM was at the end of the run. Yours wouldn't be much warmer, I imagine.

When the heatsink came off of the Revo's MM, it did it very cleanly. None of the FETs were damaged, the epoxy just came apart. I plan on using some of the Arctic Aluminuma or whatever from the local computer place.

MetalMan, I was talking about increasing the motor timing on the esc to see if the Neu would cog any less. My cogging is pretty bad at times. Sometimes it doesn't cog at all, but when it does, it really does.

I've had the sink pop off of a couple of my MMs. I suppose it'll do that with the right shock. I just used arctic alumina to put it back on.

Do you feel that the hardwiring helped anything?

zpb, yes I am getting cogging. Sometimes it's so bad it's embarrassing. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I wouldn't consider the setup race worthy, although you can definitely bash with it. Once it's rolling it's fine. If you come to a complete stop, getting going again is iffy. If you are at a complete stop and there is any resistance in your path, forget about getting going again.

I wonder if shortening the motor wires to short as comfortably possible would help cogging?

My motor wires are about 3 inches long as it is. I'm just kind of disgusted with the whole thing right now. I'm thinking that it might be time for a break from all of this. I might just pull the dirt bike out and dust off the cobb webs and see if it still starts.

Don't quite on us now! :eek:

We MUST sort this ordeal out! We must find a good setup that is reliable, and high performing for these trucks! My hunch is that if the Quark gets good cooling, which I think is only possible if both bottom AND top FET's get direct thermal management. Along with a few extra caps, will make one potent controller. :027:

Well, with my last Quark experience, I did find that of the two "joints" holding the top pcb to the bottom, one of them is socketed and one is soldered. I believe that with the use of a sucker and good soldering station, you could separate the two pcbs to get to the top set of FETs and do something about the sinking.

What rubs me wrong about doing that is that you shouldn't have to do it with a controller that costs almost $300. At this point, I believe that if Castle comes out with that Neu fix, the MM will be all of the controller that most of us will need. I like the power of 4S, escpecially on a track. 3S isn't enough and 5S is too much. I have a feeling that this is why Castle hasn't released the fix. If they fix the MM, the demand for the MMM may go down. To tell the truth, I have so many MMs that if I got the fix, I wouldn't need a MMM for a long time.

True, a couple hundred dollar piece of hardware that small and few parts should be much better designed for thermals. They should have put a third cap on it (like the MM, 990uF total), and spec'd it at 5s and call it a day. That would probably solve a lot of problems.

I think I am going to make a simple heatspreader clamp for my next Quark and mount it to a heatsink I have sitting around and see what happens. Just to get an idea how good the cooling is, for my 'Custom Quark case'.

BTW, is S&T open on Saturday?

My cogging is also quite bad when it cogs, but the reduction in gearing definitely helped. The next time the Hyper 8 runs I'll play around with the timing to see if it has any noticeable effect on cogging (for my motor at least).

Arctic Alumina it is!

I've been hardwiring brushless motors for a while now. It is my belief that hardwiring does help rather substantially, but I no longer have any point of comparison to see the actual difference.

MetalMan, if you are hardwired and are still having bad cogging problems, then it probably won't help enough. I'm using the 5.5mm connectors and they are rather substantial with a lot of surface area for contact. I don't think that the connectors are the problem.

ok with race tires truck had much smoother starts and everything was nice and cool

with big joes temp went up but no thermal issues what so ever.

i was running pretty hard

I think I will add 2 more caps for smoother starts with bigjoes

Pics from today
http://www.radeks.net/wp-content/plu...s.php?album=18

working on the video :)

Now thats a real bashing session. :027: Looks like you had fun. We'll be waiting for the video. :)

My friend did the video and it's from today.

http://www.radeks.net/?p=63

the material from last saturday needs ton of work as it's not that good

I was actually thinking along the lines of the connectors I used to use, which are the 4mm ones that the MM comes with. Never have I used anything other than 3.5m or 4mm, so those are my only possible points of comparison.

I hardwired my motor and esc today and it was a waste of time. There was no difference between that and the 5.5mm connectors. When I feel like it, I'm going to put the connectors back on. The 5.5mm connectors are substantial and have lots of contact area.

I agree, 5.5mm plugs are hefty, I like them.

I love S&T. :027:

They asked a few questions about my setup... asked what kind of external BEC I was using (UBEC), he then replied and said he would send out a replacement controller w/ free Pro-BEC. I just showed him a pic of the (after) controller and that was it.

Does anyone have any experience with a Pro-BEC, and I don't get why they think I need it? :032:

S&T have fabulous customer service! I have no problem strongly recommending them for a controller. :)

I still haven't heard from them about mine. That may be good news though. When they replaced my last one, I didn't hear anything about it. I called and they told me that it had already shipped. I guess, no news is good news.

ZPB, have you gotten your caps yet? You should be getting them really soon, if you don't already have them. Although the shipping got screwed up, it really didn't matter. The PO told me that they would have returned them anyway, due to rate changes.

I haven't got them yet no, I haven't expected them yet though. They should be here this week though.

I hope I get the replacement Quark before the races here start up. (~2 weeks)

I hope the caps get here before the Quark though, I don't think I can wait for them... :002:

I mailed them out last week myself. I think it was Wednesday, maybe sooner and I sent them by Global Priority, which is supposes to take five business days.

Oh really? thanks for doing that then. :027:

They should be here tomorrow then I think.

I have a hunch that this next Quark is the real deal. Did you send your second one into S&T already then? I never heard anything either, then I got a Quark in the mail surprisingly.

I am going to use 4, maybe six caps on the inputs just for security sake. 6 should fit nicely underneath the Quark as it will be almost the same length.

zpb, that's what I did. I made a 6 cap bank and while it was running, temps were very cool on the controller. After half an hour of running, I believe that it temped at 140 or so.

I did send mine in last week. At the same time that I sent the caps out, actually. I'm hoping to get a surprise in the mail as well. The sad this is that I just sent my Neu back to Neutronics yesterday to exchange the motor for what I ordered.

Although I liked the motor, I would always have wondered if I had indeed gotten a mismarked motor, or if something was actually wrong with the one that I had.

So...another two week wait, according to Neu.

Neu is pretty good about turning things around. I had to send tham a motor once and they turned it around in about 2 weeks. I had a brand new motor that I ran it the first time and the magnets came loose from the shaft. I will say that they had some suspect people that I talked to on the phone when I called to make sure that they had recieved it. They kept taking my name and number and telling me they would call back and then I never heard from them. I was starting to get concerned that nobody there could confirm that they actually recieved the motor from me when it just showed up in the mail. I think total from the time I dropped it in the mail to the time I got it back was around 20 days.

Just make sure you include a very detailed note with the motor on what your problem is.

jhautz, that has me a bit concerned. I called Neu yesterday and spoke with Carol, who gave me another phone number and referred me to Steve at Diversity, who in turn referred me back to Carol at Neu. She then told me to ship them the motor and that they would "try" to rush it through, considering the circumstances.

What is going on with all of these people? I have a second Quark back at S&T. My Compro has been over seas at MGM for over a month. Now I get this Neu motor and (almost) immediately had to send it in.

I certainly would not have expected to hear any stories of anyone getting the runaround from Neu. As for the 20 day turnaround time, that sucks. At least S&T had a new Quark (even though it was another bad one) bad to me in one week, including transit time.

I don't know how you guys are, but I'll forget that I even own that motor in 20 days.

So...about 6 weeks ago, I decided that I needed to "upgrade" my equipment. That's about $290 for the Quark, about $240 for a Compro, and another couple hundred for the Neu. That's what, $700 to $800 bucks. Guess what I'm running in my truck right now. A Feigao 9XL mated to a MM, total cost, under $200. I'm running the "cheap" stuff, because all of the "good" stuff is being warranted.

This just isn't right.

You can't consider a vacation without your family for longer 20 days then..

I understand your point though; it's annoying to see this happen.. You buy it with the intention to use it; not to ship it back to the manufacturer because their products are off.

lol, I think he'd remember a family member. ;)

And I know I'd remember if I was missing a Neu motor! I don't know about you, but my stable and/or spare parts bins aren't that extensive!

Why do you think that my wife doesn't like to let me go to Vegas alone? If I got lost for a couple of weeks, that would be the last she heard from me. LOL.

Nah, the point I was trying to make is that I got the controller, and had to send it back. Now I have (had) the motor and had to send it in. My new controller, either the Quark or Compro, should be back this week. I'm going to be itching to run what I've been trying to get to, and the prospect of having to wait another two weeks will be unbearable. So...I'll likely get another motor, because I can have that in two or three days. I've already missed two weekends of racing because of equipment failure. If I have to miss another, I might lose my mind and get me a nitro engine just so that I can run a full race.

All the electric stuff in supposed to be maintainence free, and reliable huh... :005:

Well, AAngel, you and I have the worst luck with this R/C stuff then.

I sure hope your next Quark will treat you right.