Here's what I gather about the good and bad om amps (very basic but typically true):
More amps: more power on less voltage, more heat, less runtime.
Less amps: same power on higher voltage as hi-amp low voltage setup, less heat, more runtime.

True, but we need to add battery capacity into the mix. Let go with 4S since that's what the racers are using. They'll need 5000mAh+ to get a 15 minute main done. With 6S you might need 3300mAh+ to get there. Now I'm going to try 8S and 10S and I might only need 2200-2600mAh.

Oops! I forgot. You can actually end up saving weight with the lower mah batteries.

Yes. Most people will also drag the price issue, but when it's all said and done, the price will be somewhat equal.

So, I am going with the brakes on the front diff idea, and I'm pretty sure that there is no kit for the savage. Does anyone know of a 1/8th scale buggy/truggy that has a brake on the rear or front diff? I recall seeing it on a buggy, but I forget which one, and searches aren't turning up with anything. Also, will a single mech brake on each side be enough, or should I go with 2 on each side, so they don't fade as much?
Thanks.

Edit:
I see now that it is on the LRP Buggy, and the brakes on that buggy looks pretty good, too. I may have to end up floping the whole design the other way around, and putting the brake on the rear diff though, because I'm not sure if I can clear the steering bellcranks...

So, I think I now have a solution for the front brake. I am thinking about putting mounts for a center diff up front, but not putting a diff in. Instead, I will put in a shaft with outdrives on each end, and mount the front brake to one of the outdrives. If I am explaining this correctly, does anyone see any problems with doing this? It's pretty much a faux-center diff in order to mount the brake.

Like the solid center from Ofna that I've been using in my BPP and Ofna buggy :lol:.

My 8s lipo setup for my savage with the 14xl cost 120 bucks new. I use 12c 3600mah polyquest cells. Can beat 35mins with hard bashing, and even the motor will stay under 150f. All I can say is that hv is great. Can you imagine what a 4s pack would cost to do this? At least double...

Yes, HV is the best. A 4S set up that will give you that run time would definitely cost a fortune.

I'm not sure if we are on the same page. I didn't explain it very well. I'd try to explain it with words, but pictures are even better!

Notice the brakes on the left hand side (rear) connected to the center diff mount like normal.
The brakes on the right hand side (front) connected to a shaft with outdrives on each end.
Between the middle part (where you cant see) would be a driveshaft connecting the center diff to the "faux-center diff" (on the front)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...V2Brakes-1.png

Picture of the brakes on the rear, nothing too special.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...eV2Brakes3.png

Picture of the brakes on the front:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...eV2Brakes2.png

If this makes any sense, it would be using 3 driveshafts total. Is there anything wrong with doing this, as It makes things quite a bit easier for me..

And I also agree with you two on HV setups :yes:
I wonder how much runtime I'll get with 12s 5000mah? Probably quite a bit :whistle:

Now it's clear for me :lol:. Just awesome. Can't wait to see it come to life.

It will be a little on the heavy side, but being able to keep AMP draw to around 60A max spikes would give you about 1 hour or so.

in order to make your set up more efficent you not only have to increase your voltage you need to mate it with a higher turn motor (lower KV) or you will get a rather hot motor......

My motor is going to be spinning pretty fast (51k RPM) but it should be fine.