Comparison
 

Actually the comparison gambit has already been done in here somewhere. Seeing more updated experiences is always a good thing. BUT the whole reason this thread was started was because of the newest claims by Maxamps for this "True 150C" race ready LiPo. So until Brandon can cough up the promised tests, graphs, and results proving its claims, we will continue to demand some kind of results. Look this was never about saving their reputation. They are the ones who advertised this battery in the fassion that is is being portrayed and we would like to know if there is any volitity to their claim or if it was purely a wet dream trying to sucker more unknowing people into their trap. If you want some level of comparison done between the rest of the batteries available then start a new thread and do some poling. This thread stands as it was originally listed "MAXAMPS RACE EDITION LIPOS"

Using the way they market as insight into how ethical they are I expect the cell manufacturer probably doesn't even rate them as 75C (note MaxAmps points out it's the cell rating, not the pack rating) however MaxAmps is assuming something to allow them to take some of the liberties they do.

No one will draw 75C continuous for any period of time from a cell or the pack, they sell to the RC community so from their point of view it's reasonable to assume that as fact.

Who knows because not one LiPo cell I've seen, granted not tons, has ever been marked the way NiCd and NiMh are with the exact specifications of the cell.

Hey guys I think I have found a cheap way to test lipos and how much current they can really hold. I just tried a Diesel Glow Plug from a friends Toyota truck on my Turnigy 4S 5K 40C. With my clamp meter I saw just over 15A of current. I left it on for about 5min and other than the Glow Plug getting stupidly hot everything else was cool. I should have measured the voltage too but couldn't find my Fluke meter.

Now I know some might be saying "What's your point?" but this could be easy way to test what sort of currents lipos can handle. Just add a few more Glow Plugs in either series or parallel (not an expert on this) and then just see how the batts hold up temp wise and if they puff at all. A clamp type current meter would tell you exactly what sort of amps you are pulling and a simple IR temp gauge will tell you how stressed the cells get. Oh and also a visit to a wrecking yard to pick up some Diesel Glow Plugs. Maybe from a big truck they will be bigger and you would need less of them. What do you guys think? Possible?

Just use a bunch of the deans bulb dischargers they are 30 amp loads with 10 #1157 automotive lightbulbs. Wire a bunch in series and watch her glow. Kinda old school use to use them for ni-cd's and ni-mh packs but good size load for not much cash and real simple.

I'm apt to do it, I would love to see 75C from that pack over and over again. Parts ordered!

1157 automotive light bulbs, 2 amp load for each light, that would be 487 light bulbs to get a 75C load on a 6500 mah lipo right? That would not only light up the room, it would heat it in winter also. What could be used for a LVC?

at 2A each it's half the bulbs, isn't it? In addition to that I was looking at how to wire something up and expect the 12 awg MA puts on this pack will have issues before it gets close to 75C, off hand I don't know what it should handle before it falls apart but I assume it will?

It would take around 250 to get your 75c load. I'm guessing around 50c will do the cells in. And yes it's bogus to think the deans and 12awg wire will take these loads. These numbers are fake no tests have actually been done by ma at these amperage loads. The componets will not hold. Wire conectors and the sort. So if someone wants a space heater to destroy an ma brick go for it but make sure to get it on video so someone can actually post some real info on testing these packs even if the manufacture won't do it to back their products.

Also deans or another company used to make a series lvc to use with their bulb discharger.

I used to have a Deans bulb discharger with the cut off they called the black box. I was going with the fact that it had 10 bulbs and was a 20 amp discharger so I assumed each bulb was pulling 2 amps. 1 amp per filament. So when I calculated how many bulbs, I forgot to divide by two :sarcastic: 250 bulbs is right. The black box cut off that was used back in the day with the Deans discharger was for 4 and 6 cell nicads, I was still using it when the nimh came out. Oh geez I'm old, I got in this hobby when the red 1200 mah matched Sanyo nicads were the hot ticket :yes:

Hair dryers
 

Wouldn't it be easier to hook up a few hair dryers or hair curling irons that can draw like 1000 to 3000 watts each. I know you would have to do several cells at once to get enough voltage, but 250 bulbs sounds like too much work to get setup. Or maybe some other kind of heating coils that would easily draw enough amps to get 75C without having to build a small city of lights. Maybe some 12volt block heaters, or a 12volt motor with some kind of load in it. Maybe a compressor, or a generator. Then just apply a clamp on amp meter to measure the exact power draw.

Its really unfortunate that these cells don't come in a smaller capacity that would be more feasible to stress. Tho I'm not shocked.

In all these shootouts (such as bigsquid), I don't understand why they don't use small cells, like 2200mah, and put them in a 1/8th and run them hard and make them work. Putting a 1/8th size batt in a 1/10 scale and doing light runs is a waste of time.
If the cell chemistry is all the same, the difference in the cell capacity variants can be largely ignored

I have to do some digging but I may have a pretty good way of holding a large load on a battery. I have a 700 Watt DC-AC power inverter. It has a low voltage cut off at 10V but I'm not sure what the max input voltage is. It's designed to be hooked to a car battery so I know it will handle at least 14 but If it would handle 4s lipo I could hold about a 60 amp load on a pack. I could still run the pack through my Eagle tree for Data logging or even do a live view so I can monitor the voltage and cut it before going below 3v/cell. I know 60Amps isn't anywhere near the "rated" capabilities of these packs but it would be a continous load at more than twice the average current draw they would see in RC use

I've considered this before, since an AC inverter can really generate ALOT of DC load.

Problem is: The lower input limit is 10v, but the upper input limit is 15 volts.

Did some searching and I found that the input voltage was limited to 15V as well. It could still test a 3s pack down to 3.33V/ cell

How about a car hydrolic pump? Thos guys run upwards of 16 batteries sometimes. and they are wired in series and parallel. You can pick up a pump for fairly cheap and hook up a cylinder to it. figuring out how to put a load on it is another story though....

you can get old 100w+(no typo) resistors from surplus places on ebay for 10-20 each...

Household items.
 

I was trying to think of items that one might have around their household to keep from having to purchase anything, unless of course that someone is willing to do that just for this purpose. I am sure that there are several material things around ones house that may be able to put a load on a DC electrical system. Heating elements are one of the best for loads, but I am sure that there are several other items that may work. Creating a load bank with items that have a known wattage load would make the easiest setup. Like a 2000 watt hair dryer, or a 3000 watt heating plate, or waffle iron, but most of those are 120volt. So maybe a vehicle block heater or a drum warmer. One of the electrical gurus should be able to post up and give some other suggestions.

Im pretty sure all of the things you have listed are require AC voltage.

Ehhemmm.... :whistle: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230487830008

You could build a serious load tester with these. Different series/parallel arrangements for different voltages/loads.

wowzaz! those are some pricey 1ohm resistors!

Holy beefcake batman.
 

Holy crap for $500 a piece I would think so. I think the idea of this descusion would be to do this without breaking the bank, right? There have to be better ways of doing this.

those are EXACTLY what I am talking about...



ex
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wirewound-Alumin...item4aa34881a9
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wirewound-Alumin...item4aa35c65df

300w, .22ohm
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ohmite-Resistor-...item2796a634dc

Guys, Guys..............

Why are you looking at re-inventing the wheel?

Maxamps has already done the testing to establish that their cells are capable of 75C Continous AND 150C Bursts!

OK, Maxamps.

How did you come up with 75C Continous AND 150C Bursts?

Are there some Graphs laying around there somewhere?

Or did you just pull those numbers out of your.............................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...........Hat?

I would love to hook up one of these 150c lipos to Pres Obama... See what kind of load that produces!!! A crap load I am sure, ahahahahaha.

Sorry, just could not help drawing a parallel with the kinda of honesty MA provide with the same virtue that our current pres has...

Deet dee dee.... See where it says "50"? :lol: If I had the cash I'd offer him $300. $6 a piece is a good deal for those resistors. The shipping is a bit high, though.

If anyone is interested, I have around 150 (maybe more) 3 ohm 50w resistors not being used. They are all new Dale metal finned case resistors, just be aware that the 50w rating is only valid if mounted on a heatsink and cooled. Just put the resistors in parallel and series arrangement to get the ohmic value you want. I even have some 12v fans to aid in cooling. PM me if interested.

I remember from electronics class in highschool that running resistors in parallel will usually come up with an oddball ohm rating, and there was some confusing math involved with it that i never understood. I know it is easier math when the resistors are the same, but it was when they were different and run in parallel is where it got really strange.

The math isn't overly complex.

For parallel resistors, there are a few methods: If all resistors are the same take the resistor value and divide by the number of resistors. So, if you have 100 X 3 ohm resistors, that would be 0.03 ohms. If using different value resistors (or can be the same), you can use "product divided by the sum" (R1*R2*R3*Rn)/(R1+R2+R3+Rn) or the "conductance" method 1/(1/R1+1/R2+1/R3+1/Rn).

For series, just add them up.

The advantage to using multiple resistors, especially in something that will generate this kind of heat, is the ability to spread out the thermal load. Also, you have much more flexibility in the actual ohmic value.

I was going to make a lipo test station a while back (which is why I have these resistors) and was going to create several 20 parallel resistor banks of 0.15 ohms. Then, just put those banks in series or parallel depending on the desired load and lipo voltage under test. Originally, I was going to use a MMM ESC in high-power brushed mode (can do ~300A for short tests) to regulate the actual amount of power to the resistors. The project never got anywhere because of a few technical details. You can read about it here if interested: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21478

Whatchu you mad about? With all the new tax cut money we're gonna borrow from the Chinese, we'll have moer to buy more chinese crap? All of our Fiscally Responsible Leaders in DC said its good for us.

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:lol:

Why to keep this post alive?
Maxxamps has no intention to respond to your request.
Their only goal is to keep the discussion alive to "talk about" their products.
It's a basic marketing rule.

I don't know guys but the diesel glow plug seed to have been doing the job easily. It got stupid hot but if you do the test on concrete I don't see an issue. One of them (at least the one I used) managed to pull just a little over 15A so I am guessing that you wouldn't need too many to test a lipo properly. I called one wrecking yard and they said that they wanted $85 for one second hand glow plug like the one I used so that wouldn't be feasible. I also called a truck wrecking yard and asked if the had some cheap glow plugs. They said that there are engines out back that I can have the glow plugs from for $10 a piece but I had to remove them my self. Still I am not all that confident doing this nor do I want to destroy any of my batteries so maybe I should leave this kind of testing to those in the know.

Where are these graphs? I'm still not impressed... I was charging my lipo's at the track on my 1:1 and my battery died. I started my car with a 3S 3300mah Turnigy lipo from my mate.
Not sure why I should pay for a 220$ a lipo that has proven to do the same thing than a 20$ lipo lol.

I can see it.
 

I can see charging a little bit more because of their 3 year 300 cycle warranty if there was a serious problem with there batteries, but from the info shared on these sites over the last two years Maxamps is not providing very much in the way of replacement products anyway. Look at the way CC does business with their motors, and ESC,s and their prices are still reasonable. It seems to me that these guys are doing the greed thing and leaving the customer hanging with substandard procudts. This is merely an opinion, but they still have not come forward with the information proving that these batteries are any better than the cheapo packs that a lot of people are acquiring through HobbyKing for much less. I think Brandon has pretty much given up on trying to prove anything to us here on RCM. If this were my company I would be excited about wanting to provide proof of our companies claims, that is unless they cannot do so. Things that make you go hhhhuuuummmm???

I think the "Others" may have gotten to him... Or perhaps when he asked the "Others" for the graphs, they said: "Is the RCM crew asking again???" :lol:

Nah, It's this simple.

"Put Up or Shut Up"

All of us have ben pretty polite considering how we all know it's the normal BS coming from those guys. He just can't produce anything other than a video that doesn't even prove their packs weren't even used. Black Heat Shrink and a decal, Big deal, I'll tell a white lie for $500.00 worth of Lipos.

Has anyone seen more "proof" than we've seen here on another forum ???

Nope.
 

NOPE I sure haven't. Honestly I only visit RCM & UE, but outside of this thread I have not seen any hype one way or the other. I just don't get how these guys can go into this new product sale and not post up some kind of reality showing specs of some kind to back up their big add (TRUE 150c RACE READY LIPOS) What a bunch of crap. I am sure that for the most part these packs can do quite well in comparison to their past cells, but in comparison to the rest of the Lipo market I have my doubts, and the fact that they have now ignored this thread shows that they are back peddling in the realization that they are not as good as they stated. I mean come on, we all know that there is no way those wires would handle the kind of amperage suggested without a major failure. The silence of Brandon over the last week or so says it all for me. He has no way to show anything to back this add up. Don't give us this shabby video of starting a dragster engine. Who cares. Just hook a pack up to a loadbank and show us some video of the load and how the pack handles said load with temps, amps, voltage and so on. Stop all the BS and as stated previously "Put up or shut up"

Guys, I have a secret to tell.. I ate the graphs. :whistle:

What? I was hungry...

This whole thing is just another example of why most of us wont buy from Maxamps again.

Purchase.
 

I believe that none of us would buy one of their packs based on past experience with them. BUT I do believe that some of us would buy packs from them if they would and could bother showing some level of proof that these packs not only exist, but actually do work to the level that they are trying to push. Plus if the battery truly is a 75C constant, and 150C burst, then advertise it that way. Stating that this new battery is a True 150C race ready pack is just smoke and mirrors and a flat out lie from the view we have been given.