I believe it would be able to do it. I compare MMpro to the Quark 80B.

Actually, the Quark 125B is a better comparison since it has the same performance characteristics as the regular MM current-wise. Early batches of the MM had the same FET part and quantity as the 125B.

Hmmm, so i wonder if the mmpro will really like 6s... I know the 125b was not fond of 6s fully peaked. The new fet for the MMP is different, i wonder if it is better? This should be a great 5-6s esc for a light 8th buggy.

It wasn't an FET thing on the Quark that caused it not to "like" 6s. IIRC, the MMM uses the same 4108N FETs (just more of them), and it arms fine. Must have been some other component(s) or software/firmware that caused it.

Dunno man. The "feel" I got of the MMpro was just like how the 80B behaved. I still have one first gen MM that I use and it doesn't behave like my 125B. Hardware might be the same but software sure plays a role in how the ESC behaves.

Any idea when the Monster will have these in stock?

Thanks

Not sure when they will arrive, but we have them on order and should have them around the same time as anyone/everyone else. I will post when I have some tracking. :)

So, for a guy running 4S 1/8 buggy with say a Tekin 1900Kv motor, is this unit going to be suitable?

As long as the buggy is lighter and gearing is 30-35mph, it should be fine.

Buggies a Hyper 9E. would be using a Tekin 1900Kv motor with this geared in the low 40mph since that is common gearing for the tracks I run at.

The 1900 draws 2/3 the current as the Castle 2650, I have done eagletree graphs on both. By my math, if the the MMM can handle the 2650, and the MMP is cable of 2/3 the current, the MMP should handle the 1900 just fine.

Careful, that's an assumption that may not be necessarily true. Just because the Kv of the motor is lower, doesn't mean that the current draw will be lower. Gearing has just as large an effect on current draw than Kv.

At a given voltage, and a given truck/car, it will still take the same number of watts to drive at a given speed -- and therefore the same current.

Patrick

Is it a bad idea to run the CC 2650 on the MMP? I have 2 Hyper 7s and both are in need of ESCs and I'd like to try out the Pro, but the 2650 is going into my offroad basher and the Medusa is geared up to the point that it gets my MGM hot.

I was thinking of the same setup in a slash 4x4 on 4s.The slash is suppose to be about 1/2 the weight of a E-REVO .... (geared for low 40's).

In the Slash it should be fine because it's so light. I'm a bit worried about running one in my Hyper because it's rather heavy.

If your MGM is getting hot, it would be a step backwards to go with the MMP; you need the MMM or add the fans to the MGM.

That's in my over-geared onroader, I'm thinking about my offroader but worried that the 2650 may be more than the MMP can handle.

Happiness...

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/minierevo/mmpro1.jpg

Very true, but the 1900 i am refering to is effectively a 1512 1.5Y with twice as much resistance. Also, out of curiosity, I decided to gear the 1900 20/46 in my 8ight to match the theoretical top speed of the 2650 geared 14/46, and the 1900 was slower, was sort of sluggish, and ran cooler, meaning it used less power. Actually, I have noticed that the MMM heats up the most when using low throttle, i.e. racing on a track where the average speed is 15mph, vs. bashing out in the street or a grass field at 40 mph. With a 1900, i have to use more throttle input to get the same speed, causing the esc to run cooler as well. Those were just my experiences that led me to assume the 1900 on the MM Pro was ok. In fact, I don't even use the MMM fan with the 1900. I don't need it and the connector and solder joint to it broke off anyway. It's also a V2... :tongue:

The esc heating up more with only partial throttle use is normal- the esc has to work harder (higher switching rate) making it less efficient- full throttle is when the esc is most happy and runs cooler.. its like a sign :mdr:

In most applications, yeah a 1512 1.5Y (1900) will draw less current because it generates more torque. But don't think it's the resistance -- a 1512 1.5Y is just as much a dead short from phase to phase as a 1512 1Y (2650...)

Resistance in these motors is so low that it doesn't have any significant effect on current draw.

Unrelated Q for you Patrick:

Will the MMM v6 be using the same Fets as the MMPro, and have the adjustable BEC feature, maybe even the data logging feature too? If so, maybe it should be called the MMMPro?..

Another thought before I got to bed (1am here), assuming you do stick the car software/firmware into one of your ICE escs later down the line to make a HV car esc as such, would you be calling it the ICE Monster or the B.F. ESC as discussed a long time ago when a HV MMM was being wished for?

I do believe that either option would be rather cool... :yes: :wink:

You could make the resistance 50 times as much -- still wouldn't have any real effect on current draw.

You have to realize these motors will pull whatever current they need to produce the torque you ask of them.

A 1512/1.5Y has about 6.5 milliohms of resistance. With a 20 volt battery, the stall current is about 3100 amps.

A 1512/1Y (like the Castle 2650 motor) has about 4.5 milliohms of resistance. With a 20 volt battery, the stall current is about 4400 amps.


So you see, resistance doesn't matter ONE BIT. It's about torque generation -- which is gearing, tires, terrain, vehicle weight, etc.

The motor will draw whatever current it needs to generate the torque that is asked of it. A 1512/1.5Y when incorrectly geared can easily draw over 1000 amps.

All of these types of motors don't have enough resistance to have any real effect on current draw.

I can't comment on the feature set of the V6. Sorry...

We don't have plans (yet) to release the ICE as a strictly car version. We are talking about it though... :yes:

You should have a "newb" controller with a static 1 ohm resistor in series with each motor phase. Would help tame those current bursts, but not sure what adverse effect that would have on the ESC. :smile:

I understand :wink:

Really should have an ICE car controller though, the 1/5 boys would love that, compared to the over priced MGM escs and auto-destructing Schulzes that are the only real current options for a proper car esc with brakes.

I talked with Mike today and he told me that he was getting a big shipment on Friday. These little beasts will be awesome for so many vehicles, I can't wait to get mine!

mine is in the mail today for my STE...
Looking forward to it..

We are planning to put a "newbie" mode in the next version of software -- where you can quickly program a "limited power" mode on power-up. This will limit output power to say, 50% of normal power.

I'm thinking that when I take out my electric Baja, I can run it in "normal mode", and then let my 8 year-old daughter take it out in "newbie" mode -- and I won't have to worry about it as much.

What do you guys think??

i like the idea, when i throw my daughter behind the remote, i will not have to cringe as hard.....

I like the idea. But, won't that be the same as simply turning down the throttle EPA on the radio? And your FAQ page specifically says not to do that. I can't think of any other way to programmatically accomplish what you are talking about. Personally, it would be easier to simply use less battery voltage and dial in 100% punch control.

Now, when you release your ESCs with data logging, you could use the current measurements to automatically dial in punch control and maybe even some EPA to keep current within reasonable limits.

The FAQ page says not to use the EPA because we don't want people setting up a system that draws, say, 400A at full throttle, and then using the EPA to limit current...

If currents are fine at full throttle (are within reason...) there's no reason why you couldn't use EPA to limit throttle levels.

Patrick

lol, that's the trick though; getting people to set it up right at full throttle. I write software for a living and well know that no matter how well it is thought out and bullet-proof you make it, there will always be the idiot that can break it. :smile:

As long as Traxxas doesn't flip out because they think you're copying their "Training Mode" it would be a nice addition. Even at 50% throttle an E-Baja is still a weapon, I've hit myself with my gas baja a time or two and it doesn't exactly tickle.

Exactly!!! :lol:

Hhhahhahaha, I use to get paid to be that idiot. Paid good money too.

New and improved ESC. :smile:
Any word on arrival?

I wouldn't mind getting paid to break things... I've got a knack for it.:oops:

I think it's like war.

CC will try to make a controller that is as tough as nails, while the noobs out there will fight back buy getting their hands on the highest KV motors CC offers and pairing it with even taller gearing and crappy batteries in heavy all metal trucks!

Wow!
That sounded just like me when I first started.
I had no idea what I was doing. :Cry:
I have learned alot since been here and technology has come so far. :Yipi:
I think more controllers are killed with ignorance. :Cry: