Who likes good news:

Boo-yah! :yes: :party:

Just ran my muggy today. Had to stop after about 15 minutes because a rear susp.arm broke...

I ran it with lutach's 10s esc on 8s and a medusa 1300kv 60mm.... geared 12/48 (approx.40mph). Outside temp was 26.7f / -3c. I have a spektrum dx3s so I measured the motor temp with the telemetry function and according to the dx3s the max motor temp was 113f / 45c. The muggy weighs 12.3lbs / 5.6kgs.

I really love the way this combo handles the muggy. It does wheelies from startup, doesn't wheely much more after that. Very controllable power.

Here is my 80mm squeezed into my E-Revo, and a extra pinion on the rear output just for fun.[IMG]http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/DSC04650.jpg[/IMG]

That is not an insignificant sized motor... :eyes:

I think I'll stick a propadaptor on the rear shaft of mine, then paint it too look like one of those hypno-disc spinning things as it runs...

Humm would a small fan fit on the rear shaft? (pulling heat out of it)

Yes but making one fit would be interesting, but thats an AWESOME idea and when I get my 80MM for the LST2 Im gonna give it a try with my 40MM fan

:yipi:

seems to me that would cause alot of unneeded drag on the motor and cause more heat

I'm trying to figure out the gearing for my D8 buggy. I'm using the 60mm 2000kv motor. On 4s I had it geared 15/48, the buggy uses truggy gearing in the diffs (43/10). It was good like that, 20 minutes run time but a little hot. Temps like that were right at 170-174. Could use a little more speed.


Today I wanted to try 5s. So I geared it 13/48, got a little hotter around 180. Next I tried a 16 tooth pinion, ran it about five minutes and checked it, temp ok. Ran another five minutes and it was right at 190. Ok so 16 is over geared, but is the 13 under geared? Or should I try 12, or go back to 15? Ordered the heatsink, but is that really going to make a difference? What would a 45 tooth spur do with 13 or 12 pinion or even the 15?

Batteries used are Polyquest 4s 6000mah and Hyperion 5s 4350 25c. ESC MMM v3. Batteries and ESC are running warm at best, it's just the motor getting hot.


I'm thinking I'm probably best off using the heatsink and the 4s 15/48 setup. Just wanted a little more top end.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

If the motor is running hot its genrally a sign of undergearing as the motor is revving too much, but sometimes it can be caused by excessive over-gearing causing too much current draw due to the large load. I dunno what to say really, if you can gear it down even further and see what that does for the temps maybe. All this is assuming there isnt any outside issue like binding in the drivetrain or what not- take a look at your esc settings and lower the timging and start power if possible... :neutral:

Think in the morning I'll head up to the track. Try 12/48, 13/45, 15/45, 12/45. According to the calculator 12/45 would give me the little more top end I'm looking for.

Was today on a track with my CEN Matrix bl with medusa 70mm 2300kv. 4s Zippy and 13/stock spur gearing. The motor is pretty great, got alot more torque than some china motor. Also I got nice 20min run and didnt even cut-off yet but was going slower so i stopped.

I had friend's datalogger on it, but dont have the diagrams yet, ill post them later. Anyways peak amps were below 100A and average current just below 10A which is very nice IMO. Peak power was 11xx W.

After the 20min run on track the motor was warm but not hot, even my battery was hotter.

What's the timing set at on your ESC?

I would say define hot, but given the great numbers I doubt its anything to worry about much. If you havent got one already, pick up a cheap IR temp gun to see how your set up does after a run- no higher than 180*F for the motor, and ~120-130*F for the lipos.

I'll check tomorrow, but it was low. Also some punch control if i remember right.

Yeah I have IR temp gun that I of course left home when I went to the track. :\ I'd say no hotter than 35-40C, which would be 95-104F, talking about motor.

I have the tekno rc motor mount with a fan on it. Outside theres no need for then fan since there's -11C (12F). :mdr: But on the track its good to have.

Configs on MMM:
http://xs135.xs.to/xs135/09016/konffit210.jpg

Data:
http://jesi.5cyl.net/RC/tmp/jezze/ampvolt.JPG
http://jesi.5cyl.net/RC/tmp/jezze/watti.JPG

Sweet figures there- lipos hold their voltage very well under load.

Only thing I might suggest changing on the MMM is the throttle setting- put it to forwards-brake-reverse/lockout. I didnt like it when the truck would slow down then suddenly go into reverse automatically...

I can't seem to get the 60mm 2000kv to run cool on 5s (pushing 190+), but on 4s, geared 15/50 the buggy rocks. Still a bit warmer than I like, 170 ish, but my timing is at Low (5), will set it to Lowest (0) and try again. 100% punch control, lowest start power setting, some curve in the throttle. :neutral:

Great Graphs! :yes:

Was this using 4S 20C 5000mah Zippys?

Thanks, yes. :) Imma buy 2 more Zippys since they seem to do just fine.

More than likely just too much voltage for that kv rating- 4 pole motors prefer (in principle, or my head atleast...) to be revved lower & geared taller to make your speed and power really. I think you'd be better of using 4s lipo and gear higher, or choose a lower kv motor (~1800kv region) for use with 5s to reduce current draw.

Yes, I agree. I thought I learned alot about kv and voltage. But after even more digging I learned even more.

So for my Hyper ST build on 5s I will select my kv carefully. Really wish the medusa's came in 1700kv.

Every good motor that's pushing some power is going to give off some heat.

For example:

Let's take 1000 watt motor that's 90% efficient. This means that all the time it's at the 1000 watt level (WOT) it's going to "bleed off" 100 watts of heat.

Running a smooth can motor with no heat sinking doesn't leave that heat much place to go. So, it builds up.

I've been having great success with the 36-60-2000kv in an E Revo gearing 18/52.

I'm using the Novak Heat Sink with it on 4S. I really believe I could run this all day long with no heat issues at all.

50 degrees outside and I can barely detect any heat at all coming from the motor. :yes:

If you have room, give it a try.

I do intend to try this on 5S AND on 6S. This will be the real test!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC07266.jpg

My 1600kv 70mm runs really cool because I haven't got it yet. :cry:

Not even a ship notification. Harumph!

I'm amazed you're running a 60mm on an erevo. You must've found the sweet spot for sure. I would have thought that wouldn't have been enough motor for that setup.

It has the Medusa heat sink on it. Today I tried 15/50 on 4s, lowest timing. Perfect speed wise, got me what I was looking for, but only 17 minutes (need 20 if I want to race). Temps were good too, 145 and 50 degrees outside. One other thing I'm wondering if 10/50 on 5s would be undergeared. Where I'm trying to get is when I ran my SC8 with a 1515/1/Y/F it was geared 13/54, I think.

I no longer have my SC8 and am not positive of the spur gear tooth count. The manual online shows it to be a 54 tooth spur. Since the SC8 and the D8 share the same diff gearing (43/10) and the same size tires the 2000kv geared the same on 5s would be perfect. The SC8 was crazy fast, ran 27 minutes on a Polyquest 5s 6000mah 25c and the motor maybe got to 120 degrees.

My 36-60-1600 on 5S in my 8T stays around 100 degrees and I get 22 mins of run time on a 4000MAH pack.

I am a firm believer about the low KV and high volts.

I run 15/45 Gearing.

I also ran a 36-60-1500kv with a heat sink/fan setup. It was geared 18/40 Mod 1.

Alot of fun on 4S, 5S was crazy fast and 6S was pretty insane. :yes:

Ascheck was doing 55.7mph with the 36-60-2000kv on 6S in an E Revo. Ummm..Medusa heat sink and similiar gearing.

Aren't the Medusas supposed to be set at middle timing since they are 2 pole motors? I forgot what Jeff(Medusa manager) told me last year when I had a 60mm but I think he said to run it with middle timing with the MMM. Anyon who can confirm this?

arnt medusa 4pole??

Quoted from the Medusa motor manual. Yes they are 4 pole motors.

Here's the link for the manual. It's on page 6.

http://www.medusaproducts.com/pdf/Me...0(Rev%203).pdf

hey are the 70mm medusa in stock yet?

In a word:
No.

dam.

know when they will be in?

Soon.

I have preorder the 70-2300 on 12/31/2008 and shot them an email before 2 days about expect shipping date and still no response. So they still not stock them :) maybe a couple week

So I take it to put the MMM at "Normal" timing? Need a handy trackside programmer.

New graphs, older ones were 1 min drive, these 20min. Well they are overwritten to the old post too:

http://jesi.5cyl.net/RC/tmp/jezze/ampvolt.JPG
http://jesi.5cyl.net/RC/tmp/jezze/watti.JPG

Nice peak power. :)
Average amps even lower on the 20min timeline than on the first one minute.

ok just got an email from medusa confirm me the motor shipped :)

can someone post a video of 80 mm serie from medusa if possible??

So after reading a bunch of info here am I right a 36-60-2000 would be a good buggy 5s motor? I am running a neu15122.5d 2050kv and it works very well. Low temps and great run time 18 min on 4300mah race coditions.

Not sure how well 2000 would do on 5S, kinda high rpm...

Depending on gearing it could kick ass or get hot.