LVC, I'm running a Novak Smart Stop 2S, in series to the inline BEC in the ESC.
I ran commando before though...... I knew when to stop, luckily, it caught it this one run.

Could the different mAh ratings be because of the BEC taking more out of one pack than the other?

As far as the physical characteristics... My memory isn't too fond, and I'm only 14 years old... Not good...

But, after the pack, they were around 130-135°, yes, I know, quite bad... I think I might have OCD, because I just can't leave things alone, and get bothered by the slightest things..

But it may have been a bit extra air, or cushiony on the top of one pack.... I tossed it into a bag of ice pack (ice pack is concealed), and about an hour later, it was hard again, but you could see the sticker (I replaced the sticker with a paper, and then clear tape over it, so there might be air under it) was going down a bit...

Is this on an old novak hv setup? If the bec draws off one pack that would be the reason for the different charge amounts.

Are you happy with the performance, or does it not perform as well as before? More setup info would be nice...

Not at all...

EMaxx 3906, KD 970s (I know, heavy as hell, but lately, it's been kickin booty pretty nicely :lol:)

EVX1 ESC.... shaddup..
DX3R w/ SR3000.....

What else ya need?

And the performance, awesome..

I haven't used it since I recharged, and taking logs...
Like I said, I'm scared and I think I have OCD...

So you are managing to run a single 970 with the old evx... Must have the gearing just right!!!! I ran a pair of those soup cans in a maxx once (before brushless) and it was insane. I could melt the solder off my side by side nimhs... I most likely had way to much gearing in that beast. Ahh, the days when I was r/c dumb...

Anyways, that is not a super high draw setup, so you should be fine. Just swap the pack that goes on the bec and lvc side every run, and make sure your lipos are charging back up to close to their rated capacity. Often capacity is a good indication that the batts are being pulled too hard. But I have no idea what voltage the smart stop switches off at. You are close to getting 5000mah out of them so you may be ok. Just keep running them, if they crap out, can em!

You may have OCD, do you step on cracks in the sidewalk? Do you try to count to even numbers all of the time? Do your friends make fun of you? Do you have any friends? Do you call your cat Mr. Kitty? Do you wear just one glove, and dance like a coffe shop employee? Just wondering as those can be signs of OCD, or being a fluffer...

Nah, dual KD970s, mah bad.
:lol::lol::lol:

Yeah, the wires are getting a bit hot on my 14AWG, switching to 10-12AWG soon... When I get meh PowerPoles.

These packs have a good year on them or so...
They have been awesome.....

I'd rate them 8 out of 5 if I could.. I love em that much...

Let's hope these Turnigy's that I've been dying to run (Also waiting for PowerPoles, don't wanna use cheap Deans on these) are good as well (Knock on Wood)

I love your comments Linc, and as a matter of fact, I like even numbers more than odds, I try my best to not step on cracks when I'm bored walking home, I have two friends, my computer and my chair, no kitty cat yet..

WAIT, are you telling me wearing one glove and dancing like a coffee shop employee isn't normal?!!?!?! :oh: Oh crap...


:party::party::rofl::rofl::lol:

Thanks for the laugh buddy... I needed it after this week (head cold and a big workload due to missing a day)

Dang, dual 970 motors on an evx, you must have the gearing spot on...

Stepping up to 12 gauge and keeping the wires short will help alot. I assume you have got rid of any connectors (especially the stock traxxas bullets) between the motors and the esc? Hope so, as those cause alot of resistance.

You will like powerpoles, I really do. Plan to try them out on my higher draw systems soon. I need to make a few 6s packs out of the spare 5000 25c enerland cells I have laying around (I have 18 I think...) and see how well the powerpoles compare to deans. I have never had issues with deans, but like the fact powerpoles can be wired in series without adapters.

:lol:

No problem....
Overdrive gearing... Things get a bit hot under the body, but it'll do!

I was a main review-er for Dan @ KershawDesgins, as far as the connectors... :whistle:

I wanna switch em to hobbycity 4mms, or 5mms, is this good?

So you're liking the PowerPoles huh?

Powerpoles are pretty good, especially if you repeatedly plug and unplug then, as they were designed for that.

Zippy ponderings...
 

Ok, here is some info on my observations on zippy packs.

I have recently dealt with alot off the zippy H lipos. Seems like they are crap. I have had a few packs sent to me that have 1 bad cell. I remove that cell, rewire the pack, and the next day another cell has puffed. I had one pack puff all of the cells, just sitting in my toolbox. I will say it gets warm where the lipos are, maybe over 110f at times, but all of my lipos are in the same box and none of the enerland, neu fp, or elite cells have puffed while sitting...

Kinda brings me back to my noob days when my maxamps packs all puffed while sitting in the tool box... Talk about pissed off.

I know alot of people have had good success with the H packs, so I will just say that if 1 cell lets go, seems like the best bet is to can the rest of that pack and buy another pack...

As cheap as these packs are I consider them disposable. I will not be repairing anymore of these due to that. Not really worth it, IMO.

Now I have not seen this issue with the rhino and flightmax packs. I have personally beaten the snot out of a rhino 4900 5s pack and it surprised me. I have not ran any of the flightmax packs, or the turnigy. I have reconfigured a few flightmax, construction is no better than the H packs.

As far as recommendations go, I would suggest the rhino over the others, for build quality and performance. I would skip the H packs, and buy the higher c rated flightmax packs.

Just my observations, your experience may vary.

After looking at and comparing lipos all day, I've noticed turnigys don't have much of a burst rating. I'd be sure to get the 30c if anything. I love my flightmax on the other hand. :great:

The Turnigy's are 20C...
Or is it 25....

Thry have 20, 25, and 30c iirc.

im bringing this post back from the dead....

Linc... i need some lipo help/advice. I do not have pictures of the lipo yet but hopefully you can just confirm the problem and then advice the course of action i should take once i get pictures up?

I have a hyperion G3 6500mah 35c 3s lipo.

Firstly i will say that my electrics are fine as the truck runs nicely with my other lipos... problems occur only with this lipo.

How it started:
Had a few bad landings with my truck one day... the next day, i plugged my lipo into the ESC, i got the beeps and was about to move. But then upon accelerating, the truck would stutter terribly. If i lifted the truck off the ground, and slowly acclerated then the wheels would spin just about... once the truck is back on the ground. I get problems.

i never had a problem with charging the lipo even when it was in this state.

So i then thought that the lipo probably had a solder break or a bad connection somewhere, possibly from a bad landing etc...

Now the lipo does not charge and reads error when charging, and i get no stuttering at all when i connect it as it doesnt even turn the esc on.

When i took all th shrink wrap off the motor, i could not see any obvious signs of solder breaks or anything? i will take pics and post them this evening, but i am wondering how you would approach the lipo in terms of fixing it?

Thanks a lot... hopefully you can help me out

Josh

edit...
This is how my motor behaves on this lipo. It sounds like it is cogging...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMS4q...yer_embedded#!

Do you have a digital multimeter to test with? You could check the main battery connectors/ wires to see if you can get a total pack voltage, and/ or check at the balance taps to try and locate a break somewhere or a dead cell.

I had this problem with my 4 cell hyperion 6500, the front board(opposite the battery leads) cracks due to Nosediving and lawn darting- which breaks the connection- you have to reflow the solder joints.

I did this and the pack is back to its normal diff distroying self.

I also do lipo repairs if you need it

neil, i know i do not have any dead cells as a friend checked it on his multimeter. (i dont have one though)

BB16, if i was in the states i definitely would send you my hyperion to have a look at it, but considering im in the UK and need the lipo this weekend to run, i think i need to do it myself...

When you say the "front board" opposite the battery leads... which part do you mean? because i have battery leads on either end of my lipos which is different to all my other lipos.

I believe the damage was caused by a massive nose dive :( so i need this repaired...
Thing is, i cannot see any breaks or cracks in the solder... maybe i am not looking at the right place...
You do not by any chance have a pic you could post up? otherwise when i get home, ill post one for you to point out the area you are talking about...

Thanks for the responses guys.

Take the heatshrink off the pack, the end that does not have the wires coming out.. Check all the older joints and the board.

My board was craked and bent... which pulled one of the solder joints apart..

Reflow all of the solder joints to ensure a good connection.

i have taken the heat shrink off but i have wires coming out at either end... here are some pictures close up of either side. If you can spot something that i am completely missing, then please let me know and advice on how to sort the problem...

Thanks

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193740.jpg

In the picture below... is this metal part meant to be sticking out??? or should it be tucked in somewhere like the rest?
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15194047.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193855.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193958.jpg


I hope these pictures help... As you can see there are positive and negative wires at either end and balance leeds connecting... i cannot see any cracks in the solder or obvious breaks. Is the flap that seems to be sticking out possibly the problem??

Thank you

Josh

Hmm, it all looks okay more or less. The sticky out flap shouldnt be an issue, though Im wondering if the join it solid or not- just looks like its stamped together ( all the little dimples ). Im also looking at the other join on that end and wondering if that is solid too- might be worth doing a continuity test with the multimeter to find where the break is, though if its only intermittent it could be tricky...

OMG that looks like it was soldered by the same 5 year old kid that made my HC packs...:whip::whip::whip:

THat picture, left side, looks like a crack in the solder, hard to tell. Reflow those puppies- they look ghettooo(means alot coming from a black guy):lol:


that metal peice is where the cell's aluminum tab is attached to the copper tab for soldering

Tuck it up out of the way

i cant believe how rubbish the solder job is on this expensive hyperions!!!

BB16 i think i know what you are talking about...
should i remove the current solder? or just resolder over the top of it?

The aluminium tab... should i be soldering that back on to the copper tab or just tuck it tightly next to the copper tab?

Thanks for the help guys...

Can anyone recommend a decent, well priced multimeter?

Hi, im back again as i still have the same lipo problem.

I tried my soldering iron to reflow the solder but my iron must be rubbish as it didnt get hot enough to melt it. Tried a friends iron and the same problem...

So before i go out and buy a new iron i used a volt meter to check the cells via the balance connector...

I DIDNT GET ANY READING!!!! all my other lipos give a reading... but this wouldnt?
What does this mean? can you work out where there is a problem? what the possible culprit is?

Please get back to me asap

THANKS A LOT

Josh

Do you get voltage on the balance wires?

no i dont :(

Man, this thread just will not die...

The soldering on that pack looks like the stuff I did before I got a decent iron....

If you are not getting any reading thru the wires go directly to the cells where the wires are soldered. Isolate each cell by putting the pos probe on the pos end and the neg on the neg and check each cell. The switch your multimeter to ohms and check the continuity of the balancer wires. I have had a few balancer wires go bad...

If you may have a loose tab on one of the cells. At that point you can toss the pack of have it reconfigured to remove the bad cell (my choice).

Hope this helps.

34 pages, wow. My rc legacy.

thanks a lot mr pimp :) appreciate the help! i will isolate and check each cell separetly... hopefully ill get it dont for the weekend.

One of my small 3s 35c 3700mah lipos puffed on me big time... i thought it was weird i only got a 2 minute run time out of it, so i check it and thought that this was annoying as i now have no sets of work lipos... so i through a rock at it and it did this

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-28193603.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-28192723.jpg

^^^ That's a sweet pic. Best lipo fire pic ever. Not so much magic smoke, but a ghost fog. I see faces too... ooohhh... scarry....


That joint is a bit ugly. BB16 right on the reflow. May want to clean the flux and dirt off 1st so you don't trap any crap in the solder.

I don't think it needs more solder, looks like plenty on there. May need just a bit on the iron to get the iron to heat the joint properly if you are having trouble. I low power crap iron is not going to do the job tho.

Always check at the cell tabs where possible to check the voltages, then work your way out to see where the break is. Then go with one probe on the pack, and the other on the balance taps going down the line to see where the break is. A paper clip or small pin inserted into the tap will help if you can't get the probe in.

Bit of a repeat of other advice, but all of it was good already