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I really like the First pic in the second post. The Lo-pro picture. Nice! :yes:
I like the LST2 sways also. Did you notch the Bulkhead.? I am gonna add some when $ becomes available. I like how you did it though in the shock spot and with the lock collars... Clean! :yipi: I was going to do it on the upper arms Like some dude (B-Team Racing) did. Whats your gearing? and are your diffs standard 13/43? Oh BTW Your ride is Loooow CG and looks Sooo Cool to me! :lol: |
Looking good Zack...I like the anti roll bar setup you got... I have a set of those Losi sway bars for some time trying to figure good clean mounting position for them...
looks like your method might be the simplest for doing so now... have you tried it yet? did you see any handling differences? will you be adding one to the rear? Alien |
CLICK Will this tekin motor work with my old Novak HV-Maxx? I think my motor burnt up in it because it was so high KV and such tiny rotor. The rotors in those things man! Small. I haven't ran it in years so I hope it even works. I'll have to get a lipo cutoff of course.
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I doubt the hvmaxx will handle a true 1/8 scale motor- according to GriffinRU the thing runs hot with only 40-60amps of current draw & the stock motors, wouldnt like to imagine ~120amp spikes and constant high loads from the kind of gearing 1/8 motors vs the hvmaxx motors.
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What do you suggest I do. Here are the vehicles I have, and controllers I have and the one truck that interest me. In my 12pound Mutant Maxx truggy I have the MMM 2200kv on 4s. 3906 FLM jacked up buddy truck 775 titan EVX2 Blue 4s. a Traxxas Titan sized boat with 550 motor mount. I plan to run the EVX2 in it sometime. I have a totally stock 25 Savage that I haven't ran in years. And the 10tt from OFNA really interests me, but that footprint on the HV-Maxx is huge. It would never fit right? Though a smaller tekin motor might work great in there on 3s. Right? I have a 3s hyperion pack. If you'll remember its that one 4s pack that got cut up on that drag.
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Well depends on what you wanted to do. But if it were me and I was building a buddy truck and wanted to spend less than $160 (That Tekin Motor Cost)
Buy a CC 1717 and a Mamba Max from the Clearance sale. shipped will be $150. Run it on the 3s pack and gear for ~25-30mph. Gearing conservatively, I am sure the Max will be just fine in there. I think the Mamba Max was one of CC best ESC . Then you will have a nice ESC for the 10tt if you get one and a 1717. Win-Win. :lol: |
Nice build Zack. I will be watching, I am in the market for a motor for my E-Revo.
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The brushless Maxx is doing fine now. I no longer have time to run it now as I'm getting married (YEAH btw!!). I imagine I'll keep it for when I have kids. lol Anyway but my "buddy truck" should probably hit the bay( I mean I want to sell it). I can't remember if this is allowed but how much do you think it is worth? (i looked at the rules briefly) How much will the ebay crowd pay for it? Don't miss the transmission. Its got a UE idler, robinson racing slipper, roll pin mod, FLM tranny, and GMaxx single speed. It will come complete with a body and a simple but excellent 2.4ghz radio.
I should mention it has RPM true tracks, a proline steering kit 3.3 knuckles. new 3.3 diffs and a high tech servo. Its brushless ready(easy on the diffs.) Also the front skid is Titanium. The rear is super cheap aluminum like not billet and not 6061. http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2150.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2149.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2148.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2147.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2146.jpg |
Prices seem to vary day to day, but assuming you give it a good clean to make it look it'd best, maybe $300-400 or so- will do better parting it out in all honesty, just means more work*
*since if a chop-shop buys it, that is exactly what they will do to make a profit on the purchase price.. |
Looks like you built 2 rigs out of my one. I still luv that Mutant Maxx set up. You really did finish it like I wish I could have, Nice job!!
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I am surprised though you didnt end up using the PowerStroke shocks. What happened to those??
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I've been bitten by the Truggy race bug. :intello::intello:
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First of all
Alien: About the anti-sway bars. Yes I tested them extensively but not on a track. They worked just like anti-sway bars do, but I don't think I'm trained enough to notice. I took it off and put it on the rear and it binded too much and popped out and came apart. It worked even under the toughest conditions on the front, but not on the rear. I will leave it off for now. I will save on some weight. (IDK what the truck weighs. can't be that bad.) 3.3Maxx(Jacob): I still have all 8 Proline Powerstrokes. They are great! I had fun trying them, but at the moment I am enjoying the buggy ones. They are 16mm. They may go back on. Like I said in a previous post I've been bitten. I completely finished my "buddy" truck that can been seen on the previous page or here http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2150.jpg Now I'm not racing this but I am thinking seriously about selling it to fund my racing itch! This is what I'll be racing... at least for a couple of races. (its a long story) http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2130.jpg I just recently found a real 1/8th scale track 15minutes from my new house in Louisville. Its operated by a local hobby shop that more 1/8th scale stuff than I've ever seen. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I go in there. Any way the weather is decent tomorrow after church, so my wife and I(got married!) are going to practice. I've about 11,000mah to practice so it should be well worth the trip. I'm excited because I know the track is made of brown dirt(lol) instead of red clay like all the other tracks back in Alabama. So should I put on by LRP Bowties or my LRP Holeshots? Another thing I'm thinking is selling both of them and buying a Mugen T 5or6 or Losi 8T 1or2. What do you think? I've got some great parts... Buddy truck: FLM/GMAXX UE GEAR Tranny setup RRP slipper. Proline steering Titanium front skid 4(8) UE Supershocks UE Knuckleheads RPM Truetrack (8 Proline Powerstrokes) The other truck(lol): Mutant Maxx chassis UE 8gear diffs with Ultralite cases. UE monoblock Duh Shorty towers rear Titanium skid FLM bulks UE Servo saver Custom CF work(diff and servo area) Lots of tires I really don't know. The main truck runs just like a truggy. It really is amazing. I've raced it twice but I am not a good driver. I don't break it driving anymore it is tough. |
Update: Well my day at the track was a bummer. I cracked a titanium gear in my servo after 5 mins out on the track.
I got This Savox Servo from the hobby shop at the track the next week after HERE is the track. Here are the stats of the servo. Specifications: Speed @ 6.0V: 0.15 Torque @ 6.0V: 277 oz-in / 20 kg-cm Weight: 52.4g Bearing: Dual Type: Standard Gear: Titanium and Aluminum Case: Aluminum Heatsink Right now it seems even better than the old one that I had. From Hobbico. CS-170 SPECS: Titanium gears Aluminum heat sink Speed: at 4.8V = .19 sec @ 6V = .15 sec Torque: 4.8V = 250 oz-in (18 kg/cm) 6V = 333 oz-in (23.97 kg-cm) After that I hit the track and was finally able to put down about 10,000mah. It was great! |
Gosh... that track looks sweet! hmmm... been meaning to visit our local track so that I could get some laps, but it's too much driving... and the place is a scorcher...
hope you get back up and running soon... Alien |
Thanks Alien!
Oh I did and was able to put down about 10,000mah! It was great! I need new tires though. I'm thinking VTR Calibers. |
That's a sweet-looking track there Josh. What are the average lap times for truggies? By the way, I didn't until now that you're in Louisville. I got some relatives who stayed there after retiring from active duty service.
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Hey Lito! That's cool. Yeah average lap time is between 27-33. 28 is hot I think. That is just looking at the records from previous races.
Yeah you probably remember me being in Alabama. I moved up to Louisville to attend the Southern Baptist Seminary. Its pretty cool. I got married here in December to a girl I met in glass. She is great. Also I would like to say... My MMM is the bomb. I don't understand HOW people burn their Castle stuff so often. Mine is getting old and is a beast! Its been through alot I think. Thank you Patrick and the rest of Castle Creations. -Zack |
Soon I will be no longer using the RPM truetracs on this truck and going to full FLM arms. The true tracs are great(I've never broken one) but they are too wide for my choice of CVD. And I don't want to remove the drive cups from my UE diffs and replace them with stubs. FLM Arms in the front has been awesome. No problems. and I will use beef Monster ball rod ends from Dubro on the linkage just like I have on the front for a couple years. I will still use plastic knuckles for now, as it is a good weak point for me. Even with the metal rings around the pivot balls on a big hit the knuckle will come off the balls rather than bend an a-arm or similar. This has only happened once.
I broke a screw off in my right FLM bulkhead. Does anyone have a spare right front bulk? |
I have spare FLM bulks (NIB and used, standard and combo) I will never use. I will send it to you within a month (these spare parts are in my parents' home).
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Hey that is great! It's good to hear from you!! I will send you a PM. I've been following your incremental updates. It is a bummer that you bent that chassis rail. I see that you are still bashing hard as time allows.
-Zack |
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Can someone please measure their Mugen 6t shafts for me?... From the ball part of the shaft to the pin part? Not including the stub axle part.
I want to try them on my Maxx. Particularly on the RPM truetrac. |
I have family up in Louisville myself, the Little's & the Greene's (even though I am a Roe), they are on my Grandmother's side of the family! They come back here to Alabama every year, though. I like it up there, and will probably be back sometime this year...I will let you know when and we can bash/race for a while!
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Okay. You know I used to live in Alabama. We talked about maybe going to that big race in Cullman but neither of us could.
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Yea, I know...I wish we could have made it. This time, though, I wanna try my best to get together while I am up there!
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Yeah I would love to see our trucks together! I've never seen VBS. lol
But does any one have measurements on Mugen 6t rear cvds? Thanks, Zack |
VBS is like a rare painting, incredible to look at!!!
Someone get this man some MB-X6T measurements! LOL :) |
Okay!! The mugen shafts almost, but not quite work on the truetrac. They may work on the front with modified or after-market Maxx knuckles though.
I have not given up yet. I will try some thing else. Perhaps rear truggy carriers with truggy shafts. They should mount up nice. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/NEW-SERPENT-C...-Yg~~60_57.JPG on http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...mall/80942.jpg |
Keep us posted on the truggy knuckle idea, it sounds/looks like it will work!
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Well I was in my hobby shop (the big new one that I found lol) anyway when I stumbled across a Losi 8t 2.0 shaft. It is the perfect length! and will fit my traxxas stub axles!! I don't need the 8mm stuff anyway. This is cheaper and more convenient for me. They were way too expensive at the shop (i did buy some stuff) some I will hit up the bay latter today.
I'll post results in a few weeks or so! Also!! I saw a Traxxas zero or X or what ever. The car looks lame but DANG! That black 1717 looks amazing!!! I wish I had an MMM Extreme too with those upgraded fets for my Maxx. -Zack |
I will upload those pics but in the meantime...
I now have a very nice 8mm truetrac system that fully articulates in suspension. I did use the stub axles after all and when I post more pics I'll tell more about how I did it. And I do now know that the Losi 8t 2.0 shafts will work on the front( or simply standard 3.3spec) suspension but will have to have spacers on the stub portion to take up the slack between the knuckle and the hex adapter. Even up to 4mm possible. I may just leave the front with the TRX shafts that I already have which work great on standard suspension. I will post pics of this as well perhaps on tues. Also, I don't know if I've mentioned it but I'll be going back to standard UE knucklhead towers and longer UE or Proline shocks instead of buggy shocks and short towers. -Zack |
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Yes Harold that sounds good. I'll pm you later today!
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Here are those promised pics of that Traxxas X or those sick Castle Creations products..
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0059.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0058.jpg http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0060.jpg Like I said the car is kinda lame but the motor and esc :surprised: :smile: |
Are you planning to transplant the combo from the XO-1 in to your E-Maxx ?
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Crap, I wish I had thought about asking you for those short DUH Towers...I have been wanting a set of those for like, ever!
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No I wish that equipment was mine. I really like the color of that motor. Hey I am going to sell the towers and the shocks to 'Unclebens'. |
Okay here is the thing. I really need advice on this. I want to flip my center diff assembly. This will point the motor backwards on the opposite side of the chassis. This will also allow me to move the battery to the front on the opposite side as it sits now. This is the setup that Monster Mike has on his conversions in the store.
Now here is the deal- I will need to make new clearance for the spur gear. Can I raise the center diff assembly with carbon fiber without a problem? SO in other words I will not make a new hole in the chassis but will lift the teeth of the spur away from the chassis with a carbon fiber plate. Will this cause a problem with rocks or other things? CLICKis like what I'm talking about! And where I got the idea! Quote:
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