Okay after looking further into this I have answered my own question...

I do understand that nitro truggies have a hole underneath the spur gear to get it to the starter box. This seems to be just about its only purpose. I was assured after seeing Mike's chassis. They don't have this hole so neither do I.

I will use a piece of carbon fiber that I have similar to the above picture.

Great! Problem solved. I'll post pics in a few weeks.

-Zack

nitro's start at the flywheel next to clutch bell. cut out for big spur??

Oh nevermind. lol Still Rc-Monster Mike's chassis don't have the spur cut out so neither will I for this next evolution of my Maxx.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0223.jpg

I want to di-anodize this heatsink. I don't really have an under the hood color scheme, but I don't want the orange. I can't get the heat sink off. Can I apply oven cleaner to the sink with a paper towel? or can someone tell me how to get the heat sink off, so that I can soak it.

I will be dianodizing a couple things with ez-off. I should have a new layout as well as soon as I get that tray from Mr. Mike!

If I could get the gears off that would help. I don't know how. I think the motor is mounted with two screws to the black plastic between the gears and the heat sink.

I'd tape it up, then use wet & dry fine sand paper to remove the orange anodizing ( tape the paper to a piece of glass or other flat surface, then rub back & forth in the same direction ); nice brushed aluminium finish with little chance of fecking it up with nasty liquids getting into the wrong places...

The servo comes apart very easily, and goes back together just as easily...just take it part, de-anodize (and polish) and then re-assemble! I am sure there are instructions, manuals and/or blown-up diagrams on the web!

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0226.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0227.jpg

That is my old tray. New one is being built. Check out the deandozing. I am going to sand and polish the servo heat sink! That thing will not come apart without force and I don't want to ruin the bearing.

Thanks guys!!

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0230.jpg

Done!! I just put the case back on and started rub it down, I will have to go back over it later with something less corse but I may leave it as is. What do you think? I can't wait to get the truck together!

Looks good- some mothers metal / aluminium polish polish would bring that & the plastic up nicely ( T-cut is good for plastic polishing apparently, though there are no doubt proper guides around )...

nice job on the servo...autosol metal polish would be good to polish it up with.
or a wax based polish like farecla g3...then it wont seep in and ruin the internals of the servo.
chris

Everything looks great! Are those Associated servo-mounts? I have a few sets that look just like those, and they are AE...they are great for all kinds of stuff!

Thanks guys I couldn't have gotten it like it was without you. Now, I don't have my tray yet so don't get too excited, but I myself am excited about this update. Particularly this image:

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0247.jpg

I made a CF wingstay mount. I have Diemaker Daves but after a few years I wanted something lower. More like today's truggies.
More pics:

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0246.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0248.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0250.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0252.jpg

Servo work:

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0254.jpg

Added a lighter resistance spring, and polished the orange away! and the blue mounts are now deanodized! And yes they are AE.


More CF Work (bottom riser plate), deanodize work, and notice reoriented whole thing- motor faces backwards like mikes kits. Basically this is Mikes. The CF is mine. Motor mount- Mike's. Coming tray- Mike's, old tray- Mike's. RC-Monster! Yeah! lol

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0256.jpg

Remember I beefed the rear drive train. everything shaft wise from the diff down is LOSI 2.0 including the 17mm hexes. And check the New VTR Calibers!! Medium. I purchased these cheap. I got it all for $50 shipped. One last thing the rear upper arms are no longer plastic. The plastic was too flexy. They had become permanently warped.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0255.jpg

Thanks for following. Hey Does anyone have an opinion on the blue shock collars. Should I leave them as is or deanodize?

-Zack

Looking good Zack... I got rid of the anodizing off mine because it did nothing for me...


Alien

The tower side of the the CF has alittle red dirt rubbed forever into it. It used to function as a battery tray. This picture is from an early setup(not current). You can see it on page 30. I cut the wingmount out of it. The other side is clean but has a mar on it from a slip with the dremmel.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1893.jpg


Yeah, I hear you Alien and Snoop said on the TRX forum that I should deanodize those aswell as the red tube rods. They have never bothered me. I may do the collars this week, but I'll wait to get the tray to see about the rods. As of right now I still like them red.

RC-Monster Tray has shipped!! Yipi

:party:

Thanks Mr. Mike!

Hey Zack, what sort of shoes do you have on the truck?

Alien

In the pics I took 3 days ago I have my new VTR Calibers medium compound. In the old pic I have 40 series Mashers.

Hey!! Important question. Can I have the motor wires come out of the esc, so out of the bullet connectors then do a 90 degree angle out away from the esc? How about a 180 degree angle?

-Zack

ps. I received the tray, its very nice! Pics soon...

EDIT: After searching (I know) I see that I can drill a hole in each connector. Still I would like advice. I will post a picture tonight of what I want to do.

That won't matter, so long as the solder joints are solid and there's no chance or wires shorting against eachother or the chassis etc, route those wires as you please pretty much.

I sortof hate to fully reveal what I'm working on before I'm finished but I need help. Now, no wiring has been done. I have to shorten(inches!) and route the wires all of them and mount the RX. Also some of the screws are mocked up and are loose. So what do you think about this?


http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2155.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2154.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2152.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2153.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_2157.jpg

Obviously I am wanting to go under the rear drive shaft. It has enough clearance surprisingly. The wires pretty much have to come out of the ESC at a 90 then go down at like another 90 then go straight to the motor along the bottom of the chassis under the rear drive shaft.

-Zack

Hey Zack, see the example below... I see no real issues with you making the connectors 90° for your application... just make sure they are insulated well after you are done...


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/03220009.jpg


taken from: Losi Brushless buggy tips

Alien

Thanks Alien!

Okay! I did it, the motor looks great!! wires are nice and short! But my Mamba Monster may never run again! My orange ESC to RX wire broke. Big time. The tab came off the board!

How did that happen?

Its a semi long story... here is the end of it. Castle customer service is still awesome! I am getting a brand new updated(so with new fets) Mamba Monster at my doorstep sometime next week for $70. They even told me that it would not be a refurbished one. I sent it in on wed of this week. They just called me today on Friday to tell me that it would be in the mail on its way to me on Monday. WOW! My MMM has been through alot. It was completely submerged and had a cracked inductor for years. It has seen a few thermals and it is funny that the signal wire tab popping off is the thing that did it in.

This is how the tab came off. I do have a soldering gun. I do solder sometimes. It normally takes me at least 30 mins to do one deans plug. I am not good. lol. I wanted to shorten my 3 motor wires. With the 90 degree bends I knew it was too much for me at this point. I took it down to the local hobby shop and they did a great job on the bulllets. (I'll post pics), but the guy noticed that I had a rough looking RX cable. It got in my spur once. I was busy looking at something else in the hobby shop and he asked me if it was okay to fix it. I told him sure. BUT I didn't know that he was going to try to put a new cable on the board. That is what he did. And the orange wire tab looked okay. I tipped him $25. I tried in the store to sinc it up to the other components and it wouldn't take. I asked the guy and he took it over to the store's Castle Link. It wouldn't link up. I thought I could sort it out at home and when I got home the orange tab was off the board. I wish he would have never touched the board. But its okay. I may be better off. Hopefully by the 4th I will have a functioning truck.

Also I am selling some items to help keep the truck running. These include GMaxx/FLM half case single speed tranny an RCM idler gear and a spare with pin mod. Diemaker dave knuckle head wing mount. a full Set of nice but used Proline Power Stroke shocks with all but one set of springs. PM me.

-Zack

Hey K, your PM box is full...clean it out and I will reply to your PM...

haha. I know! You've got some PMs yourself now. Cleared out.

Hey guys I am selling some extra stuff!! Proline Steering Kit, Proline Powerstrokes, Gmaxx Tranny, FLM, PM me. I think its going to go pretty fast. But I'm not sure. Lets handle all this via PM.

-Zack

So the invoice from Castle says Mamba Monster extreme. I know its coming with the new fets but will it have the capbank, mount, and tabs and case? Or just the updated MMM? I'm so excited! It will be here Thursday. But the cap bank will not fit on my ESC shelf. lol

And will a 1717 fit Mikes mounts? What does it take?

1717 uses the same mounting pattern as the 2200. It just have a larger diameter can. So if you have space underneath your motor it should work. If not you could raise the whole center diff with a spacer or similar to give you the additional clearance needed.

Great! And notice I have a spacer because I flipped my diff and everything around

Anyone recieved a mamba monster extreme recently? See two posts up.

Doing some maintenance the truck now. I've noticed some things... I'll need help. My 2200kv rotor. The rear endcap is disconnected or unglued. Is that okay? Also I may have noticed the shaft slidding on me one day when trying to pull a pinion. Is that possible will it slip rotationally now? I hope not!

Also! My diff cup will not seperate from the diff body. The spur side came apart easily. The pin is out but the shaft and cup are stuck! I need to replace the bearing.

I will also update on the new extreme MMM. It is very nice. I love the adjustable bec and the power handling. I noticed that large componate on the bottom board of the older mmms is gone. I believe it was the inductor mine cracked on my old mmm. Sorry this is from my phone.

So to recap I need help with the rotor and the Diff.

Thanks Zack

The rear end cap is screwed in place with 3 tiny screws ( M1.5?, small at any rate ), are they missing?

I would take out the rotor and check both bearings are good, and that the little brass spacers / shims aren't missing either. If the magnet has come loose on the shaft then you should see a 'tide mark' where it used to be further back onto the shaft as such.

I would suggest to tap out the shaft if it's stuck, just use a small 'hammer' and a flat head screwdriver or something similar- just be 100% certain there is no pin or anything holding it in ( the bearing may be a bit warped from front to back so it's mashed against the shaft ).

Hey Neil and thanks yeah I should take a picture. It's not the can endcap for the stator its those metal pieces at each end if the rotor. Rotor caps. It will come off. Here is what I am thinking. They are just there to add rotor balancing paste to. This end happily does not have any of that paste.

Not sure I understand the diff question. Pics? Sounds like you need a BFH. (Big Fricken Hammer)

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMAG0492.jpg

This is perhaps worse than I thought. However the magets so the rotor does seem to be keyed. I think I can tell that now. So hopefully it won't slip but may play back and forth. But should not the brass tubes keep that in check.

The BFH worked on the diff. It's good now what about this rotor?

Zack.

I'd suggest some green locktite to fix that back in place permanently. The little brass tubes / shims should stop the rotor moving back & forth, though even then they will still move slightly, maybe 1-2mm ( most people report the same thing when enquiring about it from what I've seen ).