I wouldn't suggest going this route. As I had been told by others; the tranny is a weak point and you'll end up having to swap it out for an e-maxx tranny.
I really wanted the 2 speed tranny to work and it did like a champ for a little while, but it wasn't long before second gear stripped out and I haven't taken it apart to see if it can be fixed or shored up to handle the punishment. For this reason, I am not sure the 2 speed e-maxx tranny would work either, but supposedly they will bolt right up to the old t-maxx chassis. Do they shift automatically or via a 3rd channel on the oldest e-maxx trannys?

The 7xl was awesome except for the excessive heat, but I ended up popping the can and had to epoxy it back together and it was never the same after that. I think when the can popped, it allowed the rotor to come in contact with the coils for a few revs which can't be good.
Eventually the brakes and acceleration faded to the point that full braking power on my MM ESC was totally ineffective, so I am guessing I demagged the rotor. I can take the other end of the can off to replace the rotor, but at this point, I don't really care because I have a pair of castle monster combos(one with a tork, one with a castle) and a standby KB45 08XL for my e-maxx and e-revo making the t'e-maxx obsolete.

If it were more efficient, the 7xl would be a great motor. Plenty of power and very speedy, but the 2200kv motors from castle are so much better in every way, it's no comparison.

This one here's a better y adapter IMHO: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFN4&P=7
I just picked up a few of em because I use em on my e-revo and e-maxx and they consist of less material overall/fit better in the RX box.

Live n learn, eh? :oops:

How did you pop the can? I was under the assumption that the feigaio's ''C'' line of motors were screwed together, unlike that the standard 540 motors.....
Oh well, If mine pops you won't find me crying, feigaio's more of a ''throw away'' motor these days......

Hey j3110
 

Hey using the E-Maxx tranny is a viable option if you put RC4WD aluminum gears and steel idlers inside. Plus doing the hardened steel pin mod to the input gears/shaft, and eliminate the silly little roll pin that was installed by the manufacturer. An aluminum case wouldn't hurt either to bulletproof the setup. Of course you can just go the simple route and install one of MM's slipperentials once he starts selling the center diff mount for the 3906 E-Maxx(hopefully soon). That way you have an adjustable slip diff, coupled with a direct drive setup. Of course you have to have a really good drivetrain that will hold up to hte punishment of the BL powerhouse. Good luck with that.

Well, the rear end bell is threaded with a set screw to keep it from backing out, but the pinion side isn't threaded. I guess it's a pretty common/well known issue.
Here's when it happened:
At the end of this video.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...h_IMG_0784.jpg

Yeah, Jerry, the slipperential with a 3906 mount would be ideal, but you're right, I'd hafta bolster the rest of the drivetrain to handle it and in that case, I'd also be spending lots of money to get er back up to snuff which really wouldn't be worth it to me.
Best way I could imagine going about it is putting the slipperential in the 3905(if that's an option) and swapping all my 3905 drivetrain components into the t-maxx and upgrading the 3905 with hybrid or 8th scale diffs and most likely the summit driveshafts.
At that point, I'd either have to replace the 7xl rotor or swap it out for the KB45 which would migrate the stress back to the poor MM depending on gearing and how I drive. I'd also lose the mech brakes which were mitigating the 7xl heat buildup.

It was a fun project while it lasted, but I can't justify investing any more money in it since I already have the 3905 and e-revo both sporting monster combos.

I might just run my cheapo nimh packs in it in 1st gear and use it to tow my nephew around in his little red wagon...or I might be able to sell it as-is.