Thanks George....They are really big and I like them...

BTW, I lose that pin hold the axle on my MIP CVD. THis left alot of marks on the axle carrier but its ok. ANyway. I was think whether to get a rebuild kit for the CVD or buy a different set. Any suggestions??

Traxxas cvds have a nice ring that holds in the pin, or there are some cvds by RCBest on ebay that look nice and have reportedly performed well. I wonder if a simple zip-tie would hold in the pins on your MIP cvds?..

The way I remember MIP is that its being held by a screw like those of the pinion gear to motor shaft...not sure why they come undone....

I saw the RCBEST cvds just havent heard much of them I guess...but I think I might look into it

Nice Video TB.. :intello: I was shocked it came out that good on your cell, the truck looks like it has power to spare.. :yes:

Quick question for you, did you balance your tires (?) they look really straight on the Vid and I was just wondering how you got them so true (?)

Have a great one and I hope you enjoy your baby..

Thanks Shaun, this Neu motors are really awesome as well as the A123 packs I got.

I didn't expect anyone to notice that about the tires.. :whistle:

Well, its a long story..first that spot was actually almost a mile away from my place not to mention half of it is climbing stairs and Im only pulling my truck on a trolley. The first time I hit the trigger (without knowing the power of the motor :whistle: ) half and pulled it WOT bang....the CVD at the right rear was bent..it slipped out and stuck between upper arms and drive cup. Not sure how it happened..I walked a mile and Im not walking back without enjoying my truck...with a few bending skills I manage to put it back without removing anything but I noticed that when the arms is at the lowest position the ballhead of the CVD sits 1-2mm almost about to pop out. I pulled a Velcro strap and pulled both arms so they sit level and limit the downward travel so the ballhead sits farther inside the drive cup....this is similar to how joelings savage had the wires on the suspension arms...it held pretty well though I only had a few small jumps but at least I enjoyed the 30min run :yipi:

I might be doing something permanent once I find a high tension cable like the ones used for climbing..(smaller dia of course)..

Truck is currently out of commission due to the lost pin of the CVD (not because it was bent :lol: )..might just get the rebuilt kit for MIP...

Jeff

Yup, you need suspension limiters such as these:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture114.jpg

So far, I never had any suspension problems (knock on wood).

Yup, that's how I did it but with a velcro strap :rofl: (temporarily of course)

Thanks for sharing George

Finally mounted the MGM 16025 (ver 6.22) on this truck and I must say MGM are equally smooth as the MMM even a slow speed. I pretty much enjoyed it. However I made a mistake, for some reason the break was not enabled or i wasnt able to set it properly so I ended up cutting my test in about 15-20mins...temps were low 112degF on ESC 110degF(max) on motor and 95degF on batts...

Hope the weather will remain sunny so I can do more test...

if your driveshafts fall out at full suspension extension limiter straps are like a band aid, it covers the sore spot, but it doesn't fix it. If you turn in the pivot balls (equally, 1 turn on top=1 turn on bottom, otherwise you change camber) the driveshaft will sit farther in the cup. Just flex the suspension as you adjust so you don't go in too far, and you'll have to re-adjust the turnbuckles when you are done.

Thanks for the suggestion although that was an issue about a few months ago :intello:

Oh and the issue is not that the pivot balls fall off easily but it sits at the end of the drive cups. A sudden twisting or bending on the shaft due to extreme acceleration will cause it to shorten the length causing it to come out. Limiting the shock travel did a lot and I havent found any other issue except my the ESC died.

Again thanks for the input I will consider it next time I rebuild this truck.. :yes:

The pivot ball is located inside the steering knuckle, and attaches the knuckles to the a-arms. Its not that the pivot balls fall out. The problems you were experiencing indicate that the pivot balls were never set correctly. Tightening them brings the knuckle closer to the arms, which in turn pushes the driveshaft farther into the cup, allowing full suspension, and no need for limiting straps. Hope this helps out...... for your next build?!:lol:

If limiting the shock travel is the only fix, then get rid of the velcro. Instead just put a piece of fuel tubing under the piston in the shock. If you want the truck to be lowered 2 cm, then use a 2 cm piece of fuel tubing, or a 3 cm for a 3 cm drop, and so on. It will work much better because outside objects will never touch it or damage it.

Really guys thanks for the help but this issue with limiting the travel was an old story and already fixed...

@Silver, that velcro was a temporary solution since I was out on the field and that is the only thing I have... your fuel tubing idea is good I will also look into that probably in other builds....

Thanks again :yes: