RC-Monster Forums - My Brushless Muggy Project : input please :)

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- - My Brushless Muggy Project : input please :) (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14764)

I would go in a123, by 6-7S it should be enough, especially in 2p setup.

Thanks guys for all the input!! :wink: Much appreciated

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdebde (Post 208687)

The MGM software is not bad, it even gives you a readout of rpm, amps, volts, and max temp after a run.

I would just adjust your speed with gearing, and you can use the punch (on MMM) or accel time (MGM) to tame things down a bit.

Do you think the MGM TMM 16025-3 Car / Boat Z-SERIES
is adequate? I am thinking it should be a little more then neccassary so it should not have to work to hard and hot..... I am looking for a cool setup :yes: You guys agree? It is 165a cont 200a peak 5sec....

Quote:

Originally Posted by mk351e (Post 208705)

hey buddy pay careful attention to my posts, as they'll let you know what NOT to do. :whistle:

The finned can 1521 will fit just fine, and is probably the way to go. I wanted my muggy to go 60+ also, that was until I realized just how fast that is, and how hard it is to keep the front wheels on the ground! Also, get LOTS of tire glue!!! You WILL need it! Can't say much about controllers, as the MMM is all I know, but Zippy batteries are supposed to be real good anc cheap too. FORGET the Road Rages for street use; they're WAAAAYYY too soft. You'll shred them up very quickly. Unfortunately, your only choice for street tires with this setup is really the HPI phaltlines, but as bdebde said, DO NOT(!!!!) buy the pre glued version!!!! Glue them yourself, and make sure you do a VERY VERY VERY good job!!! Also, I would avoid the chrome next time, because it just flakes off, and then they look very ugly.

Also, I bought the XTM 40 series wheels to mount dirt tires on, because they're the only other 17mm hub 40 series wheel, making it easy to use the hpi phaltlines for street. DO NOT buy these pieces of crap; I completely destroyed one the other day!! I have NEVER in all my years in this hobby, destroyed a rim. Just get used to changing hexes too.

BTW, I sure do love my muggy!! IMO, it's the perfect RC platform, though others may disagree.

My eyes are glued :wink:I like the proline wheels but I would highly prefer the wabash 23mm... Do you know if the phaltlines will fit them... I think they look great and from the feedback are the must use option... I want to keep each corner under 3/4lb so there is not much rotational mass (sure to help keeping things cool) I am wondering... Is there a way to strip the crome of of the HPI if the phaltlines wont fit the 40 series 23mm.... Then i could dye them and help ensure a good bond :intello:Chrome is out for me..j

Quote:

Originally Posted by BL_RV0 (Post 208720)

I hear the 30c enerland cells (flightpower, polyquest, etc....) are not as good as the 25c cells.

Any more info as to why or for what reasons?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kajman (Post 208776)

I would go in a123, by 6-7S it should be enough, especially in 2p setup.

I do like the performance of the a123.... They can feed a hungry system, but the size-weight-fittment worries me in the muggy.... Weight is of the utmost importance to me (also key to cool in my head :wink:) and i dont see them working best for me although i am new to the big stuff so i cant speak from experience or seeing it, only from size and weight references

I really appreciate all the good input and be able to soundboard the ideas of you guys :yipi:

Heath

I'm not sure, but I know that I was going to buy some polyquest, and most said to go with the 25c packs. Apparently the specs are not overrated at all on the 25c, and they fibbed slightly with the 30c, so they have 8awg wires on the 30c.
EDIT: found the thread
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...oly+huge+wires

The 16025 should be enough, but I would probably get the 28025 or 25035 (for more voltage in the future) just because I like overkill.

As far as rims for the phaltlines, they make 2 styles "blast" and "tremor" available in chrome as well as black and white I believe. The phaltlines are a bigger inside diameter than 40 series IIRC, so I doubt you could use them on 40 series wheels. You will need 17mm hexes to run those HPI wheels as well.

i was told told by a CC tech that they personally liked the 25 evos over the 30s he said the the 25c put out 25c all the time while the 30c had to be "up to temperature" to put out 30c he said they didnt like this and would recomend the 25c over the 30c unless somehting changes.

hey cow, the phaltline wheels come in white, black and chrome, so if you're gonna dye them, go with white. HOWEVER, the phaltline tires are a proprietary size! Only the HPI phaltline wheels (tremor and blast) will fit the phaltline tires. But as I said before, for a street tire for a high speed BL monster, they are your only choice. That's why I was saying it's a pain in the butt to have these for street with 17mm hex, and then have to swap your hexes for dirt use with a real 40 series tire/wheel combo. But remember, avoid the XTM 40 series wheels with 17mm hexes, unless you like to have busted wheels!

Thanks for all the great info guys! Looks like it is hpi tremor and blasts in white with the phaltline tires.... I will have to live with the 17mm hexes untill someone makes something in 23. I got a tracking numbe ron my baby :) She lands monday so the breakdown is soon to begin!

I'll make sure to post pics

Heath

I just want to get some feedback on something i am wondering. I am thinking this.... Since i plan to go to one apropriatly sized servo i would have the room on either side for the battery... I am thinking, just an idea i could mount the motor a litle higher and off to the no servo side. then i could make a 6 cell saddle pack with a 3s on each side... the motor would be a little higher though so i am not sure if it would be worth the extra balance. since i have never had one i have no idea how well balanced they are and a 6s 5000mah off to one side worries me in the big picture but then again i have never had a motor any where near the size of the neu 1521 finned.. Any input or comments on this would be appreciated :yes:

Heath

With a battery that size, you will be a bit heavier on the battery side. If you get all the electronics on the motor side, it won't be all that bad.

First off THANK YOU! you guys were right these are freakin awesome... not to much dead weight and they look great. I got the RPM arms and 17mm hexes installed :)

a few pics...

Snapped a few pics with the cam since the camera is D.O.A. :)

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture132.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture131.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture133.jpg

Soon to be alot lower then this :D
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture135.jpg

and the other set of wheels :)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture134.jpg

I am thinking of picking up another rear driveshaft to use in the front for an extra inch :wink:

I think the carbon fiber and RC-monster mount is next :yipi: anybody have some real close ups of this as I want to see if it should work with my chassis layout I plan to utilize :yes:

Thanks for all the advise:yes:

Heath

I would look into some Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles for those RPM arms. I just put those RPM arms on my Muggy and sheared the camber rod off and now I have to send part of a control arm back to RPM for extraction :cry: The Lunsford part number is 1435.

So far looking great! I would keep the motor on the servo side to leave room for bigger batteries (7s2p A123 anyone? :party:). Muggies are awesome, you're going to love it the very first time you drive it. That 1527 will be a handful to control though:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...6&postcount=41

For steering, I use a JR ds8711 with the Dynamite aluminum arm with the stock steering arm screwed into the 2nd hole from the center. I can provide pics if you'd like. It is a BEAST of a servo, it has more torque than any other servo that you will be able to fit in the Muggy without modification and whips mine around really nicely. It sure isn't cheap, but it is one awesome servo.

Also, what do you plan to use for a battery tray?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy (Post 217837)

Thanks for all the great info my friend, Much appreciated!

I will look into the lundsfords... good tip :yes: sucks to have to send em back but gotta love RPM's replascement policy! I will be using a 1521/1.5D actually so it is a bit much but not piontless power :lol: I will be using a MGM 250A ESC and flight power evo25's so I should get every last ounce out of it :intello:though.

I am actually going in a bit of a different direction then i have seen done before.... this will be a dedicated pavement burner and I will be making a completely custom Carbon fiber chassis utilizing a 6.7mm bottom plate and 4.2mm top plate all of ultra rigid 2mm weave. IT will sport a 1" ride height! The factory chassis braces will be history and the top plate will replace the seperate front and rear plates and make them one long support brace that will run the lenght of the vehicle connecting the front and rear assemblies. This plate will attach to the diff in the center :smile: as well. This should Prove to be a hell of a light and rigid combo...

Now for the cool stuff... i plan to run a saddle pack configuration :party: 1 3s brick style evo25 per side.... In the front i will have the motor to one side and the servo - esc - reciever on the other. If i am tight on room i can always move the radio or esc to the top plate :wink:

In order to get the room neccassary to do this i plan to lenghten the chassis as well.... I am still researching fitments etc.... but i have 2 choices what ever provides just enough is the option i will use since i want to lose as little turning radius as possible. I'm not really looking to modify the steeering hubs to get it back.

1. replace the front muggy center shaft with a rear muggy center shaft... this will give me an extra 1" in wheelbase

2. replace both shafts for LST2 shafts.... I have not verified this but i was told this will give me close to 2"

I would like to go airtronics for the servo but i will check out the JR! sounds like a brute

Let me know what you all think of this... hopefully it will layout correct but we will see.

Thanks for the compliments! :wink:

Heath

what kind of weight are you shooting for?

Quote:

what kind of weight are you shooting for?

I dont have a number in my head.... I just hope to do things smart as possible with weight and durability in mind and see where i end up :yes: Considering the electronics I have alot of weight to make up for :lol:

Heath

The chassis looks like it has a front kick up - how are you going to deal with that?