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-   -   FLM SPV2 Crawler Build - Designer StampedeProject (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15728)

Arct1k 10.23.2008 11:17 AM

This was what I'd knocked up for the hybrid diffs...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...0&d=1223345731

stampedeproject 10.23.2008 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arct1k (Post 225261)
I have most of the bit now or on order to complete my build - The only minor issue I had is that FLM missed the shock standoffs from my package so they are being sent.

Also I thought you mentioned templates for the lexan cutout was being included.

Might be nice in due course to include some instructions or sample link positions for Noobs like me... :)


This is something quick I did. See how this works. I am at work, so I can't test it until tonight. Then I will work on some better instructions and a setup sheet.
http://www.stampedeproject.com/FLM-V...-Templates.pdf

Arct1k 10.23.2008 01:14 PM

Looks good - be great if it could be marked out so nothing overlapping and holes for the screws to cross pieces marked.

Then one could just tape to lexan and cut...

Might be worth reaching out to TCS as they have some cheap lexan cutouts for the upper link fill in's $3 - They could probably make these pretty cheap...

More commision for you...

PS how many AX10's did you buy or did you get sponsored?

stampedeproject 10.23.2008 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arct1k (Post 225298)
Looks good - be great if it could be marked out so nothing overlapping and holes for the screws to cross pieces marked.

Then one could just tape to lexan and cut...

Might be worth reaching out to TCS as they have some cheap lexan cutouts for the upper link fill in's $3 - They could probably make these pretty cheap...

More commision for you...

PS how many AX10's did you buy or did you get sponsored?

I didn't have the CAD files for the cross spacers so I will need to measure those later.... and yes that would be the way to go to just tape and go. My thought was that you need to print two copies anyway for the left and right body panels, and since you only need one hood and roof panel you could just use the hood panel from copy one and roof panel from copy number two. :great:

I have five AX10's at this point and, I think, eleven crawlers at this point. Axial has been good to provide a couple units for articles. Generally by the time they send a new one, the other one looks so bad that it's time for a new one anyway. I generally end up replacing links and tranny cases to get extra photographic mileage out of the chassis before everything completely wears out and that of course in on my dime.

Arct1k 12.09.2008 10:07 AM

FYI If you do the extended link 4 link mod I found that I needed to drill additional holes to the three at the bottom kink...

Might pay to add a couple of extra holes if you can...

stampedeproject 12.09.2008 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arct1k (Post 240300)
FYI If you do the extended link 4 link mod I found that I needed to drill additional holes to the three at the bottom kink...

Might pay to add a couple of extra holes if you can...

Picks?

On my 4-link build it worked out that the stock holes were were they needed to be, but a lot of people use either shorter or longer links. Most people will actually used much longer upper links that mount at the transmission area. This is actually the preferred positioning as a 4-link seems to work best when the upper and lower links are about the same length.

Of course if you want a few more holes the SPV1 version is available.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...lm72000&cat=31

Arct1k 12.09.2008 12:24 PM

I'm mid mods at the moment to install new lockers and a dig - should have some pics up again at the weekend...

No more chassis I just picked up a super...


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