Let me tell you, upgrading this Slash is a royal PITA!!! Everytime I get something, I have to modify it to work. Now, I don't mind modding, but when you get something that is SUPPOSED to fit, I think it should fit, no?

Latest issue: I got the big bore shocks (#2660 and #2662) just to find that the spring retainers are too small. Let me remind you; these are listed as a Slash option part. The springs "kinda" fit, but they overhang the retainers a bit. So, I have to go get the Slash retainers. Then, the diameter of the "big bore" shocks are smaller than the stock Slash shocks, so even when I get new retainers, I have to find some way to take up the slop on the top retainer. Aggg!

BTW: I decided to change the title of this thread and move it since it's turning out to be a general Slash upgrade thread...

Here is a pic showing the differences between the stock hinge and hinge from the FLM tranny. You can clearly see the FLM hinge is longer by about 1mm:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/sl...m_vs_stock.jpg

This pic shows how much material needs to be removed from the RPM arms to allow them to work with the FLM hinges. Note: RPM arms work fine as-is when using the stock hinge/tranny:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/slash_rpm_arm_mod.jpg

Well, the upgrades are complete.

To get around the "big bore" shock issue, I added a piece of heatshrink tubing to the shock and used Slash spring retainers. The heatshrink was the perfect thickness to take up the slack on the top retainer.

The only things left to do:

- Come up with a decent way to seal the diff so I can tune it. There was an article in an R/C mag I saw at the LHS that describes how to do it. Basically, you dremel down the outdrive raised part flush with the rest of the diff. Then, countersink the outdrive hole and put an 8th scale o-ring in there. The o-ring should stick out as far as the original raised section that was dremeled off. Then add a thin shim, then outdrive bearing. To seal the diff cover, some RTV silicone. I have an extra diff that I'll be trying this on. But I'll wait to actually replace it until the existing diff goes out.

- Change the top shock mounting scheme. I want to replace the shoulder bolts with long bolts/nuts and use some type of spacer/shim to use in the shock cap.

But she's running now and am quite happy. Even with punch control at 70%, timing = low, and start power = low, it still has too much power for those Slash tires. Perfect! :smile:

where?????? i wanna see it :yipi: ive just been filling mine with 3k and 7k and then after a month or so ill pull it out and wipe out the tranny and fill it again......makes it handle worlds better. but if there is a way to keep it in there longer im all eyes and ears.

Can't remember exactly. The guy at the LHS said he remembered seeing it in some "Xtreme RC" mag (or something like that). He flipped through several mags before he found it.

A friend/coworker is coming over to my "shop" today, and we are going to modify his Slash diff in this exact fashion. If there's time we might get around to modding the diff in my Rustler but that's not so important.

Do you have a drill press Brian? I think that will make drilling the countersunk hole a lot more precise.

Drill press? If you mean holding the diff in one hand and the drill in the other, then yes. If you mean a piece of machinery that drills precise and perpendicular holes, then no. :smile:

[QUOTE=MetalMan;243150]A friend/coworker is coming over to my "shop" today, and we are going to modify his Slash diff in this exact fashion. If there's time we might get around to modding the diff in my Rustler but that's not so important.[QUOTE]

Mind Taking a few snapshots? Mine Unloads badly after about 5-10 packs through it. you can even see the grease on the output yoke bearing. Horrible... Thank you Sir.

You know what I meant :whip:.

Unfortunately I didn't get any pics of it, as he pretty much had to rush off to his shift at work. This procedure is very simple, and took about 20mins to complete (not including breaking down the tranny). We put in 70k oil, will see how that works.
The hardest part of this who process is just making sure that you don't remove too much material with the countersink bit. This is very easy to do, and I think he might have taken too much off on one side (hopefully it will still hold up). Otherwise, it's very straightforward if you follow the article - which is in "Xtreme RC", quite possibly the January edition.

lol, I know what you meant. :smile:

If you take a tad too much material off the outdrives, couldn't you just add an extra shim to keep the o-ring pressed in?

I wish it were that simple. Remember that the output shaft goes through that hole, and if you remove too much plastic you can enlarge the opening the output shaft goes through. This isn't good because then the diff won't be supported well enough by the output shafts.

That's true. Someone outta make a nice 7075 Al version of that, but done right, and keep the price around $30-$40...

Yeah, it'd be cool if Mike could make an o-ring sealed version, but he's got much more important things going on.

Now, what could he possibly be doing that is more important than making an item for me? :lol:

here is that ectreme rc article about diff the seal
 

yup here it is
sorry thought it would be a pic, pdf is easy though
sooo you can't edit the title when you misspell everything and add needless words huh lol. Dont judge me it's hot buttered rum time:)