Okay. I'll post the things I need to make an all aluminum truck and you tell me what are the things I need to complete it:

- FLM hybrids( probably UE bulkless, towerless)
- FLM half case for transmission
- FLM shock towers( if I'm not gonna get the ue ones)
- rc- monster heat sink
- RC-Monster idlers
- strobe slipper kit
- G-Maxx single speed conv.
- Super Maxx ext. center drive shafts
- Super duty MSR5 shocks
- Super Maxx servo saver kit
- UE ext. CVDs
- Hex adapters
- extended body
- 7.5 UE diff( 8 spyder)
- Super Maxx ext. suspension kit( with out shock towers)
- FLM extended chassis

Need your help people, please.

Ok, first off, id say you should get 4 UE supershocks, they will be a bit cheaper than 8 msr5 shocks, and will be lighter overall, and perform better, You need tires and rims, i would recomend Crime fighters on 23mm wabash rims, What setup are you gonna be running, as for those chassis, id highly reccomend gorillamaxx chassis , but if your an all out basher, go FLM. Your missing steering blocks, id use the integy steering blocks, there are some other little things you need but that covers some of the bigger things. What motor mount are you gonna use? Stock i assume?

Get the racer x shock's, so much better. If you got the money, deff get bulkless towered. Otherwise you'll need some skid's too, GA 2 mm's ti will do the job.

I'd suggest a racer x over the ext. Lighter, almost as strong and darn sweet looking. It will take allot of abuse for a basher suspension.

Also a few mod 1 pinion's wouldn't hurt. Also don't forget pillow ball's, the ue suspension strangly don't come with them. And ofcourse some silicone oil for the diff's(5k rear, 7k front) and some shock oil.

That's pretty much it to make it a roller.

If he goes for the ue suspension, they got steering block's. Integy don't fit them anyhow.

Ohh one big thing to get and easely overlooked, screw's!

http://www.tony1034.com/

Allot of screw's that come with the part's are junk, they will strip easely.

Tony 's screws rock. Same with the Supershox. Let's not forget hingepins, and steering turnbuckles. I assume when you say blocks you are speaking of knuckles. RacerX over EXt. Steering Servo, ESC, motor, motor mount.

Hingepin's and tb's are also included in the suspension kit;)

Well, I really like the racerX shocks and the towerless bulks are something to consider. I wanted Ti screws and ceramic bearings, but dont really need them. So I guess I'll get some tires and rimes( plastic), motor mount( G Maxx motor mount or stock), screw kit, turn buckles, hinge pins, steering knuckles all come with the suspension kit. But no pillow balls???!! no problem I'll get it. will the idlers and 8 spyders be enough to cover the whole drive train? dont you think you're missing something? I'll edit the list again.

Oyeah, I forgot to tell you that I'll be using kontronik FUN600-15 motor and the schulze 149.18 controller( I had have it quite a while ago). Why did you recommended G-Maxx over FLM and EXT susp over racerX? Are the msr5 shocks any weaker than the RacerX shocks? thanks for all the info.

G-maxx chassis, are very durable, and look better, and they are more race orientated, The racerx shocks are indeed stronger than the msr5s. You will have a better outcome with them, the integys look nice, for a shelf queen, the supershocks from UE are nice but are more for performance, as the motor mount, you cant use the g-maxx motor mount with the FLM chassis(you can use this motor mount if you get the g-maxx chassis)

Mind confusing.

Whats confusing you?

I dont know what I really want. I dont race at all and yet I want a top of the line truck. Full of aluminum, shiny, fast, powerful and within my range of money.

Like some people including me pointed out, titanium screw's are a very very bad idea. They will strip very easely. Your better off with 10,9 high grade steel. Don't get the 12.9 grade, they will shear off instead of bending during a crash.

I've got the racer x and am very pleased with it. It weighs in at around 460 - 480 gram's complete if I remember correcly(arm's, bearing's and knuckle's). It is better because you don't got rear turnbuckle's(which in a crash at jumping is a real pain in the butt since they break first) and weigh's less than a ext but almost just as strong.

I'm surprised the suspension kit's don't come with the pillow ball's. But for those, ue has their own steel one's. Again, don't take the titanium version since they will snap instead of bend like steel. And to top it off, ue pb's has a extra hex in de threaded part, so if you break it, you can still be able to get it off with the supplied hex in the suspension kit.

Your drivetrain should be plenty bullet proof.

Thanks, Sneeck. I'll look into it even deeper and then give an edited list.