looks great , it looks very well balanced


let us know how the motor does on the track , i am torn between the 2200kv and this one , once you get the gearing figured out , also run-time and such on the 5k packs

My new tap arrived, so I drilled out two of the holes on the Castle Creations MMM motor and tapped them out to M4 size. Mounted the motor using M4 screws, modded the rear mount to fit the MMM motor. Now everything is rock solid.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05369.jpg
MMM 2650kv motor endbell, nice sharp tap and the proper size drill.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05370.jpg
Drilling out the holes, the material was pretty tough, I hope they are using 7075 aluminum.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05376.jpg
Holes tapped, now I am checking to see what length screws I should be using, too short and they don't thread in far enough and can strip out, too long and they will hit the coils inside the motor. Notice how close the new M4 holes come to the inner alignment ring, just made it. Also, the bearing is gigantic.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05381.jpg
This is why I went thru all the trouble of tapping the holes, M3 screw on the left, M4 in the middle and on the right.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05384.jpg
All done, absolutely no flex in the mount now. M4's look nice sitting in the mounting plate.

Almost done, hooked up all the electrical stuff, shortened the motor wire, installed the ESC and rx. Hooked up a battery and tested it out on the work bench, everything worked great. I am used to running metal on metal (spur/pinion) but this is the loudest brushless conversion I have ever run. My ears are still ringing. I Won't be able to get to the track until next week, got pre-SuperBowl parties Saturday and Superbowl Sunday going on this weekend. Also, still need to paint the body.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/P1010038.jpg

If the noise is getting to you, I got the kyosho plastic spur to fit. Its quiet now.
Its a direct fit, so no need to mod or anything...just take the metal one off and replace it with this.

http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=KYOIF147

oh, Its 44t so it will make you a bit faster.

Thanks for the offer, the guys on this forum are really cool. But I have used plastic before on my first conversions. Plastic is great, quiet, smooth, cheap, and doesn't wear out your pinion like steel does. I used them for several months with no problems, then one day after some heavy track action I knocked a couple of teeth off and had a DNF. So for me I need to be sure I can finish a race, and steel is more reliable than Plastic. May be when Mike releases his Slipperential I can go back to plastic. Also I heard Losi is coming out with there own plastic spurs for the 8ight as well.

Losi's own Xcelorin 1/8 motor has 4mm bolts, that's why the motor mount in Losi conversion kit was designed this way.
Bigger screws will definately be stronger, but some other motor mount(like the Tekno's) uses all four 3mm screws to hold the motor in place, it feels really tough.

if i may what is the difference between the 1 and losi 2? the chassis...center drive shaft is longer.... what else? also will a body form the 1 fit a 2?

i just noticed u had the flex chassis on it right? if so why do you have a metal king headz rear brace. i was told that you had to use the plastic ones with that chassis or it would make the chassis not do what it was made to do.

What your saying makes sense, if they design flex into a chassis why make it stiffer. But the E-conversion changes the dynamics of the chassis slightly because of the rear motor mount that does not exist on the nitro version. I want to try both the metal brace and the plastic one and then decide which suits my driving style. Since there were no changes to the front I am using the stock plastic brace up front.

oh ok i understand what your doing now. i dont think i would of ever thought of that lol.

Front A-Arms and carriers are different, rear a-arm and carriers are different, the rear outer hinge pin is larger (3.5mm), the front and rear shock towers are different (lighter), there are grease shields on the center cvd's, aluminum parts are anodized black, different rear diff housing, different radio tray (stronger), body has a slightly different design, but will fit on 1.0 version. Steering parts are different. Mainly small updates to fix issues with the first version and to add some better handling and more durability, nothing major.

I personally think all motors should use 4mm screws or at least have the option (have both 3 & 4mm holes on the motor). I think 3mm is a carryover from the past and with todays larger more powerful motors 4mm is the new standard. Just like 1/8 motor shafts, we soon found out 5mm was the way to go.

Conversion looks great so far - nice work!!

Another thing to consider. all chassis have flex built into them. It enhances the handling by adding to the suspension. A good comparison would be a motocross bike, it has suspension like a buggy, but you also stand up a lot and let your knees act as a secondary suspension, same as the flex in the buggy chassis.

Also, the Losi 8ight 1.0 version also has chassis flex built into it, the 2.0 just has a slightly different flavor, and remember Losi sells optional aluminum braces for the 1.0 version, so they must not believe it impacts the chassis flex in a bad way. Just my 2 cents.

I don't even used the front brace in my 8ight 1.0.