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I caved and put the RCM mount in the designed location, and ditched the original carbon fiber servo plate.
I created another ESC plate that uses the original motor mount chassis holes and now I just need to create a brake servo mount. I tried making my own motor mount out of 1/8 aluminum stock but gave up. It seems so strong at first but it ended up being pretty flimsy once I had it mounted up. I'll update with pics tomorrow. It's about 4AM here and I'm dead. OH, and I also drilled out the RCM brake spacer so that two of the holes would accept 4mm counter sunk screws. I needed to do this so that I could use the RCM mount with my Tekin motor that has the funky 3mm mounting hole spacing. |
My RCM Mugen motor mount fit perfectly with my Tekin. I wonder why yours is weird. Now if USPS would just deliver my long shank pinion....
Good luck, nice build so far. |
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http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1241912493 Oh, with the motor up front, a long shank pinion is also needed... I found this out after my build was practically done. |
Well, it's finally done. (Aside from the new body I'm working on)
This morning I made a few mods so I could mount the original servo plate on the opposite side in order to maintain the mechanical brakes. Here's the finished product: http://aceldama.tuxcat.net/rc_stuff/MBX5t/Done/Far.jpg http://aceldama.tuxcat.net/rc_stuff/...e/Overview.jpg I've given it a little romp around the neighborhood and I love it. The low speed control on this Tekin ESC is impressive. I can only compare it to my 1/10 and 1/18 non-sensored stuff but it's way ahead of those in terms of 'feel'. As far as the motor spacing goes it seems to be a manufacturing defect on the 3mm spacing. Tekin haven't answered my e-mail or posted in the thread I've created about the issue. I only know of one other user who has seen this issue, Jhautz. It's not a problem for me anymore since I just bored out the brake spacer for 4mm screws. |
Looks very nice!
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Very nice setup, any chance Of Video?
I would be afraid to put my lipos out in the open like that :) |
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I'll see if I can get some video. I just have my point and shoot camera so it will most likely be awful. As far as the battery protection goes, that is a concern but I think it's going to be all right: -The Neu Energy back are built like Rhino packs and have that protective skin below the shrink level. -The strap covers most of the battery. -The body covers the battery. I'll keep an eye on them and if I see any marks from rocks and sand on them I'll probably add a thin sheet of plastic between the strap and the battery. Now I need to start painting a new body. |
Sweet. very clean, and well put together.
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Why not just use motor brakes for bashing? No real need for brake bias...
Looks good tho! Clean conversion! I would lay those packs down tho, on not expose them to the outside like that. Maybe have a tray that you can slide the batteries in from the top... |
I have the misguided belief that using the mechanical brakes will prolong the life of my electronics.
I'll have to take a picture of the batteries when they're inside the trays. They're pretty far from exposed when the straps and body are on. The lip from the rock guard covers a bit, the strap and body covers the rest. |
Looks very good. I like what you did with the wires for the ESC and motor, it looks very clean with the shrinkwrap slid down over the solder posts.
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Thanks. I was debating whether or not to put bullets on the wires but glad I did with all the shifting around I've done. I used the Metcal MX500 we have at work to do the soldering, it was a breeze with that system. |
I finished the body this morning so I took some pictures:
First is the battery in the tray: http://aceldama.tuxcat.net/rc_stuff/...ne/battery.jpg Here's the body... I like to keep it simple: http://aceldama.tuxcat.net/rc_stuff/...ne/newBody.jpg http://aceldama.tuxcat.net/rc_stuff/...one/MBX18T.jpg |
She's a beauty man.
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