yes, all bigmax have a fan

yes the length of the car over all is 570mm
the chassis it self about 357mm long

difficult was it to make a 168mm long rear center driveshaft

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0152_klein.jpg


i made it on a CNC lathe (and it's not the easyest way). i tested several material but it always start to hunt because of the total length of 200mm from the raw parts
but i one works

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0150_klein.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0151_klein.jpg

and i think i must make a new motor mount to go less than 17/40
i want to test 14/40 and 15/40 but if i do i can not fix the motor because the place is used by slipper and spurgear

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0155_klein.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0158_klein.jpg

Holy monkies, thats one of the nmost awesome custom maxx chassis I've ever seen- you do have your own CNC equipement I take it? How much do you charge an hour?....

Yea, all Big Maximums have a fan, but if I'm not mistaken, I remember seeing something about some of them having a larger fan than others, and the larger fan is harder to find. I think the blue Big Maximums have the smaller fan and the black ones have the larger fan.

yes and no

a grinder how overhauls diecutting tools friend of mine has got 2 CNC machine
and we do something like that on weekends

next is a chassis for the revo first plates are milled and bended now i must make some brace and check out how to place the components

i will ask plettenberg about that fan thing on Intermodellbau this month

here some pic's from my new e-maxx input shaft i made to handle the revo slipperunit

first the shaft loaded with 1st and 2nd gear pinion, bearing and pin

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0169_klein.jpg


next the slipper pressure plate
the shoulder from the pressure plate will sit next to the bearing when you push it over the pin

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0166_klein.jpg


here it's pushed over the pin

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0164_klein.jpg



befor i'm able to do this i must grind the i think ventilation rib down

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0160_klein.jpg


the shaft back in place

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0161_klein.jpg



here you can see why i grind the ventilation rib down

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0170_klein.jpg

cause there's no space for it



here one pic of the slipper plate after it was a bit loose

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0163_klein.jpg


sorry for the bad pic's they are taken from my cybershot

here the last ones about ridehight

total weight 5,2 kg or 11,5 lbs

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0173_klein.jpg


that's the lowest i can reach


http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0174_klein.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0175_klein.jpg

now it's real fun, no compromise if i want, i give full throttle and the car move forward without any wheely. i could drive up the hill and give full throttle, the only result is that the car go faster up the hill.
befor with the short Chassis on the same hill the car always make wheelys or flip over.

but the heat ? outside we have 23 degree today
i run 17 min on a real dusty and loose gravel gound with some gripy areas than stoped

the 9920 was about 40-55 degree
the 20XL-12 was about 80-90 degree (i need a temp gauge)
on 6s2p 4000mAh

the gearing is 17/40 in 1st gear
2nd gear is definitive to hard for the esc and the motor with this gearing

i think the whole setup is a winter halfyear setup as well if i go 14/40 in 2nd gear

any proposals ?


and do anyone know a body that will fit on a 425mm whellbase my mamouth body is a bit to short


some pic after testdrive

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0178_klein.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0176_klein.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...0177_klein.jpg

Work of art and engineering, truelly is. :yes:

thanks, and sorry for my bad english/ present, passt faults

what i forget to tell

the 17 min run take 2048mAh out of both packs


1. think i should make that new motormount to be able to mount 23t-10t pinions for testing!
2. or mount heatsink on the motor?
3. or go for a higher voltage ? (with another esc)

best in my opinion would be to go with this order

1. If you can get the spur and pinions to mesh, no reason not to try. Smaller pinions will be harsher on the spur though, as there is less contact area so the spur may strip or wear more easily.
2. Definately- look at the rc-monster heatsink clamps, or a hvmaxx motor heatsink.
3. Well, I just realized you are using a 20XL? motor- thats way too slow/ low kv for 6s lipo- you are also gearing it really tall, which is putting too much strain on the motor and heating it up so much; 190*F is much too hot, and will demagnetize the rotor, leading to a cooked esc and lipos wituhin the next few runs.

My suggestion is a different motor to better suit your voltage- I recommend either the CastleCreations 2200kv motor that normally comes with the MMM system. Its ideal for 4-6s lipo, and perfect for your pretty large truck.
Another option would be the Medusa 80mm ones, say the 1600kv version (sensible), or the 2000kv version ('fun' :wink:)- I have the 2000kv version and it runs pretty cool on 5s lipo in my 13lb GorillaMaxx.

With the ~2000kv motors, you could gear it around 18/56 to give you ~45mph in second gear- I would lock the transmission into second unless you have all metal gears inside it, shifting on the move will eat the gears in next to no time otherwise.

You will probably have to go back to 32pitch (mod 0.8) gears, but the new emaxx 3905 ones and jato3.3 ones will fit the revo slipper perfectly.

Have a poke at the calculator to get some other options:

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html

For cheaper motor options, the Feigao 11XL or 12XL would be great on 6s lipo, but probably still run hot.

ok, back from all the calculators i know!

thanks suicideneil for the input
cause of that i begin to reflect


as 2nd gear setup

1. i hope to get a max. Current draw about 60amps
2. 22,2V max. battery voltage
3. Motor rpm about 35000 1/min
4. E-Maxx 2nd gear
5. Revo 40T
6. 13T pinion

ESC
TMM 12025-3 Car / Boat Z-SERIES with external heatsinks CUBE
or for a safetyreserve in voltage
TMM 14035-3 Car / Boat Z-SERIES with external heatsinks CUBE

Motor
LMH 1950/8 (1568kv) Hi-Amp with fan incl.



another alternative

the x2crt center will fit in my chassis with a slightly mod and there's enough room for a brakeservo


for a centerdiff or slipperential setup

1. i hope a max. Current draw about 40amps
2. 22,2V max. battery voltage
3. Motor rpm about 25000 1/min
4. X2 CRT centerdiff 48T
5. 13T pinion


ESC
TMM 12025-3 Car / Boat Z-SERIES with external heatsinks CUBE
or for a safetyreserve in voltage
TMM 14035-3 Car / Boat Z-SERIES with external heatsinks CUBE

Motor
LMH 1950/11 (1140kv) Hi-Amp with fan incl.

the other way for the esc is, give the rzrun150A a try?


here a little impression from the 9920 and the 20xl-12

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Very nice. I've seen some amazing builds in this forum and I like them all.

hi, lutach i read all over youre ESC thread, long but interesting. Thanks


I considered that first of all befor i switch to another setup i will try my Bk-setup with

1. 2nd gear Maxx transmission with 40Tspur and a 13T pinion (only for testing i dont think that it work like i want too)
2. i make that centerdiffmotormount i designed tonight to get rid of the maxx
transmission. i think with a 48Tspur and the 13T pinion and another motor the 9920 could handle it.


here some pic's of the centerdiffmotormount

the mod to fit the centerdiff between the brace is, make two groove for the spur into it

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...nt_Motor_D.jpg

mount with diff and motor

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...unt_Moto-2.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...unt_Moto-1.jpg


mount only

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...fmount_002.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...fmount_001.jpg

Jesus- Mike, give this bloke a job, quick!

I like that center diff design alot, looks like it would fit a Gmaxx chassis too with a little work, I know alot of people want something similar to replace their transmissions.

On the motor/ esc front, I would say the 1950/8 would be ideal for 6s lipo, along with the TMM 14035-3 esc (might as well go for the higher spec one to allow for future alterations to the electrical setup). The MGMs have been getting great reviews now that they have the latest software update available, so you should be fine with them- the HobbyWing esc is cheaper, but it seems to have a few issues (Im happy with my MMM for 6s lipo personally)...