So I spend a few hours toying with way to release my batteries a bit faster.. Came up with this..

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0512091744.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0512091944.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...512091749a.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...512091749b.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0512091943.jpg

I used some 3/16 kydex plastic. some angle aluminum stock and 2 quick disconnect throttle cable connectors that I found in our race trailer... It was entirely by accident but was a "Eureka!" moment.

(Connectors)

To take the Battery straps off- you simply slide the locking collar back 1/4in and the entire thing comes off- the opposite side attaches with just a slot that fits under a cap head m4 screw.



The studs for the quick disconnect were 10-32 So i had to drill and tap one hole on each of my novak battery trays- no Big deal.

Then Mounted the Female quick disconnect to a strip of angle aluminum using a m6 button head screw(I was surprised that they are metric from the factory) and mounted the other side of the aluminum to the kydex strip with 2 countersunk M3 screws for a flush underside.


My next task is to somhow spring load the bottom of th packs so they pop up when you take the straps off for easier removal.

Let me know what you think

Neat idea- let us know how it works out! :mdr:

This doesn't totally have to pertain to this thread or this individual post by you Ian, but do you ever post anything but "nice" things? I rarely see you posting something of usefulness..... :no:




Anyway, sorry if I missed it, but the quick release mechanism slides back so is it spring loaded to come back forward into the locking position? Or do you still have to do that?

And for making the bottom of the tray spring loaded, you should get a some of those little springs they use in devices that take AA batteries, and put like 8 of them along the bottom of each tray.

Yes the quick releases are spring loaded so they automatically clip.

Might be something worse than those quick releases, but those look so tacky..

You can just hook up something like a regular ball stud:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCZJ5&P=7

and a regular ball link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMT1&P=7

Looks more.. efficient to me.

Those quick releases, if they're pull back (towards the end of the pack) and pull up, that's a good idea, but the mounts look tacky as hell, does it not?

Maybe it's just my OCD kickin in.

I've been playing with this idea for a couple years, haven't built anything yet, though. I think bottom access is best. The body would get in the way no matter how you slice it and dice it otherwise. That is a non-critical area of the chassis, and both the cups and the chassis braces would provide all the rigidity needed. If worse came to worse, you might have to run the alum braces instead of the plastic the team drivers run.

My idea was similar to yours. I was going to have a beveled lip on the end of the tray opposite the bullet connectors, and engage that lip, and push the front of the tray in place. I was going to have a post on the front of the tray that would engage with a mount in the cup and then lock it all together with a 6mm by 50mm ball release pin. Pit stops would be reaching under the body, pulling out one pin and dropping the battery tray, replacing with another battery tray with the fresh packs, replace the pin, and go.

Oh stop your whining. and why would I use normal ball cups
that defeats the purpose of a quick release... thes are the prototypes anyways.


they pull towards the center of the pack.. will test them out at the track this weekend..


@ Pb4ugo

I have encoutered the same thing- trying to make a botorm release pack.. unless you weld in an aluminum tray your not going to have the support you need..

Im thinkign of putting my trays on there sides and moving them outboard so you dont have to take the body off but just bend the sides up.

Is that much quicker than a clip on a zip tie? You'd make more of a difference changing your setup to a single pack i would think..

It is faster. alot easier to work with- especially when it comes to reinstalling it- you dont have to fight getting a tiny body clip into the hole.

In conjunction with the battery ejector that Im working on it will be much faster then the standard setup.

Ah, if it wasn't a quick release, it looks bulky, but being that it is, I get it.

:P

Yep, it was my OCD.

I plan on Trimming down the pull tabs (giant squares) Now I just need some short high tension springs to put under the pack for battery ejection

You are still missing built-in connectors, it would save time.

Bad idea on having anything come out the bottom of your chassis, it takes way way too much of a beating to ever mess with... iMO you have two choices

1) side access similar to the e-revo but with a simpler connection to make a swap faster as plugging in any connectors (deans etc) takes too long messing w/ the wires and stuff.. it needs to slide into place and "contact" w/o any extra wires. I've run several long 30+ A-mains and even w/ just one battery swap it takes longer than all the nitro pits.

PS may want to have a body w/ the side cut right out in this small area to speed things up further. The e-revo stock body is weak on the side by design so you can bend it back and swap out packs, most are not like this.


2) create a top load system w/a custom body with a removable panel for access, the body in a small section would essentially be part of the battery tray in a sense allowing you to release and pull it up. The problem here is the body holding up over time as it too would be greatly weakened, but far better than your chassis being hacked up and weakened. If you are a good driver though and don't flip much, this would prove very nice as well.

I came up with idea like this:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l1...ck-release.jpg
Just pull back that release and battery "pops out", then slide new battery in...
This requires special battery casing.

I think thjat top loading trays could be a problem. because that basically neccesitates the need to remove the body.. side loading should be the winner in that department.. I need some uniform packs with all Bullet connectors. Or somehow convert all my packs to a standard connector.