I race and can beat most truggy drivers (not pro's yet, getting closer though) let alone most every MT driver I've run accross. I use to race my e-revo weekly, until I converted an 8t now I run w/ that most of the time, but I ran my e-revo for over a year though racing and beating most w/o a single diff issue, and let me tell you I have put my fair share of punishment on my truck. Here is the thing, if you drive it stupid, expect parts like that to break, standing back flips landing jumps WOT on concrete and asphalt etc.. expect serious damage to your drive line including the diffs. I'd expect about 99% of folk who have diff issues do those activities OR don't know how to adjust a slipper or think they can just set it and forget it w/ a diff, they need to be cleaned and oils swapped bearing checks at least a few times per year if not more. Bad bearings etc also another leading cause to early death of diffs. The early revo diff's were a touch weaker and may have issues but if you are running the e-revo diff's there is no 'real' problem.

PS not diss'in the alum diff's but you can buy a PILE of stock diffs off ebay for the price of one of them... LOL.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...inh/th_008.jpg

Here is a really old clip from ages ago too.. last year a few months after I started racing....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP4l4QEMB2Y

Most of the time its the plastic case flexing that causes the issues - which is why a lot of us are doing ok with aluminum inner and outer cases on the diffs using the stock gears.

damn I have only about 7 or 8 pack on my e-revo and the holes on each driveshaft are already enlarged and the ears start to twist only on 4s power ...

neu 1515 2.5d 1700kv

4s lipo 15c 6400mah

56t/21t gearing

the slipper was not so tight

anyone have found a fix maybe other shaft from other rc's ?

The only good soln is too not worry about it and replace when they get really bad or break. They are cheap enough and cvds just tend to pop out or bend on the Revo (esp if you get rpm arms.)

I have nitro revo diffs and have never blown one, ex the one I was trying to blow. The CD kit is a different story. I've killed at least two of them. Both are a horrible design tho and prone to leakage compared to their 1/8 counterparts. Diffing out on 500k fluid (which is literally thicker than molasses and at least as messy) is rediculous. TRX gaskets suck. More than anything I hate how hard they are to get to vs a 1/8th scale or Savage. A few screws on those and the diff pops out. On a Revo its major surgery and far more time consuming. I am nice to diffs just to not to have work on them.

Honestly, I can't see a Revo ever beating a good truggy driver with all else being equal. Most of the local tracks I see that have both classes have the MT (ie Revo class) TQ well into the middle of the pack of the truggy drivers.

I am not a big racer or a pro by any means, but watching what some of the really good trug drivers at Barnstormers during the RCM Bash (and other times) can do with a truggy is simply amazing and far beyond what a Revo could hope to pull off. The best lap by a Revo was more than 5secs behind the best lap of the trug drivers (35s vs 41s.)
I'm not saying it can't be done, a Revo beating a truggy, but beyond a certain level of driving, the Revo just does not have the capability a truggy has.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Revo-Maxx-33-4

this one not good ?

I want something durable I dont want to buy tons of stock shaft at around 10 pack ...

I'm sure its a good shaft - havent run it myself. But keep in mind what most people on here have experienced - you will at some point bend one of those and have to replace it. When I did, I went back to the stock sliders, and quit worrying about them - 10 bucks a pack is cheap compared to 60 bucks.

it will bend on only 4s power ? :neutral:

They are not so good. I know as I bought them when I was being very silly and before TRX released the Erevo and said they are not for use w/ the Erevo.

Unless they improved them recently, the ones I had exploded the drive cups (literally split in half) and sheared the pins on the dogbones in 20mins of usage. Not heavy drving either. If the cups were improved and the pins were replaced w/ hardened steel pins, then they may be alright. Honestly tho, you can get Revo axles very cheap on ebay. Don't buy them anywhere else.

I bent mine on a pair of 2S2P A123's and a Novak HV4.5. Landing a big jump on one wheel can do it, or running into a curb while showing off for your buddies.

how about other compagnie ?

rdlogics

mip

vantage racing :

http://www.vantageracing.com/site/v2...ges/JA0003.jpg

?

or :

http://cgi.ebay.com/4x-F-R-U-Joint-A...d=p3286.c0.m14

I can drive my revo within a second of my truggy, I've run at barnstormers and CRC raceway myself and there were some FAST drivers.... July 12 at barnstormers I took second in the "d" main (120+drivers and many pro's on site) and bumped into the "C main" and in the 5th lap moved up to 3rd place before my shock broke on that run and had to drop out.. This was my first time ever at barnstorms and pulled a few fast laps just under 40 seconds on my truggy and buggy but I didn't run my e-revo as two classes was enough! At CRC Raceway in Rome my times (30sec for fast laps) are much better as I've been pretty much near the top in Truggys for many of the heats & mains that I finish w/o a broken part or issues as of late (battery at LVC) heh.

PS my lap times at barnstormers on the 12th would have put me in 4 or 5th place in that a-main you posted up if I didn't have any 'issues', and thats if I didn't get any faster on the track which I most likely would have been a little bit.

2 2 Brian Bush 8 00:06:01.111 00:39.977 8 45.138 Done!


ALSO: to the other guy.. loosen the slipper a touch more and the shafts take longer to stretch.. it will happen, but that is what the slipper is for.

My E-Revo diffs gave up the ghost about 12-15 packs in, rebuilt them with NovaRC aluminum cups and Robinson gears,outer aluminum diff cases also. That was 8 months ago and at 90 something runs later and still quiet and slop free. Changed all arms and axle carriers to RPM but retained Plastic shafts,replacment is super cheap via Ebay and only done it twice since diff rebuild. Plastic sliders definitely better with RPM arms due to major flex,still better than break or bend. I'm using Lundsford links for everything,bent a couple but the rebend back to perfect w/a hammer and vise. Shock ends and link ends are to be expected, again cheap and easy fix once in a while. I beat the hell out of mine with a 1515 1Y and a M.M.M. and (2)2s-8000mah TrueRC 20C packs geared 15/68 w/7" tires,45-55 minutes runs,no fan and motor temps top out at 120F in Florida, awesome.
Set up is 50wt Oil with silver springs F&R. I enjoy driving my revo very much, it's a "refined" Monster truck with big capabilities on the track, but I still like my LST2's for sheer crush-a-lation.
One of these days I'm gonna finish my 3.3 conversion and chase some truggys.

maybe this Neu 1515 2.5d 1700kv are overpowered for the e-revo ?

I don't think so. The Revo is what it is and is capable of handling that motor and more. You will not get around its indemic shortcomings however. All trucks have their shortcomings.

Doing get me wrong, I'm not saying the Revo is a terrible truck or someone is a jerk for buying one, just that its not the end all its sometimes made out to be. It can be a very good all-purpose truck, its just that its relatively expensive (due to neccessary mods and upgrades) and most likely will not perform as well as a truck that was trickly designed for a single purpose, be it bashing or racing. Parts support and availibility is second to none, and any truck bought today will be able to find parts for years to come (which is often a rare thing in this hobby.)