The 380c 6l will wheelie better than the 8s because of the light rotor.

The 380c 6l will wheelie better than the 8s because of the light rotor.

No, I don't run low voltage. I only do 3s and 4s Lipo with my Rustler. I use a motor (Feigao 540 12s) that has a kv of 2958, so is perfect for 4s Lipo, and still works well on 3s Lipo (for racing).

would the mgm compro 80 amp 12 cell be a good controller for a 380 6l? it seems to be the cheapest that would work. it would be run on a 7cell ib3800 at first, but i think i might get a 3s lipo in the near future

it would work perfect. have you considered the mtroniks?

not sure what your talkin about. motor or controller?

nevermind found it. the 60 amp mtroniks controller says it can only handle up to 7 nicd/nimh cells but can somehow handle 4s li-pos which doesnt seem right. is there any reason why li-pos would require less from the controller?

The Mtroniks controllers can actually take up to 12 cells or 4s Lipo. The 75 amp Mtroniks (Mtroniks Pro) would be a better choice for the 380C 6L.

doesnt an emaxx with an 8l and 2s li-pos only pull about 45amps? how would a stampede pull more than that?

It's more for the insurance in it being able to handle a lot of amps during bursts. An 8L on 4s Lipo could burst over 100amps.

that makes sense. anybody know anywhere else to get mtroniks controllers. theyre all on back order at hobby people.

As MetalMan said, I ran a Feigao 6s for quite a while - infact I have two of them. Thing is, they're very good and powerful, if you have the right gearing for them, and you have very good batteries. As others have said it has to pull a lot of amps to generate its power, and this often brings the voltage of the battery that low that you'd get more power from a motor that can pull less amps. Having said this, when my 8 cell batteries were still matched and fairly new they gave my T2 and T3 great power with this motor (using a Mtroniks Pro controller), rolling wheelies at 20mph were easy, top speed was quite nice, 40-50mph depending on gearing and how much the tyres balooned. But my batteries have faded over the months, and I've credited one of my 6s motors with killing 2 of my batteries because the silly amount of amps it can pull.

At the end of the day if you plan on spending big money on your batteries as well, the 6s can be a sweet little motor, with the right gearing (too low and acceleration actually gets worse, too high and it'll overheat pretty quick and thermal your controller as well). But my personal recommendation would be a Feigao 380C-6L, these little motors pack a big punch, and that motor on 6-9 cells I reckon would actually be faster than a big heavy 6s. I have a 380-8t running in my RC10T right now with Masher 2000 tyres, and on just 6 cells it was pulling enough speed to clear tripples and quad's down my local BMX track. Don't underestimate them :)

Check your PM box..I don't really like linking to other shops on Mikes boards, but alas he doesn't stock Mtroniks.

thanks alot. it all makes sense now. im new to the world of brushless rc, except the novak ss but that doesnt really count, and everybody here is very knowledgable and helpful.
one last question though, what kind of connectors does the mtroniks genesis pro controller need, can you just solder the wires directly to the spikes on the controller? I cant find anything about it in the description.
also with this "return to bas" software upgrade do you have to ship it all the way back to the UK?

For the return to base function, you do have to return it to the United Kingdom yes. They have a very quick turnaround (and great customer support) - I'm in the UK so a typical turnaround time for me is 72hrs from me putting it in a post box to me getting it back and ready to go. Of course intl shipping takes a few days for you guys in the US.

I tend to just directly solder the motor leads to the posts on the controller, and use a Deans Ultra plug for the battery. You can't use the Tamiya compatible plugs you may still be using on a system of this power - they melt.

yea ive been using deans for awhile now, never melted a tamiya, but didnt particularly want to. shipping to the uk is more of a money issue than time, but oh well, nothin i can do about it. soldering directly to the controoler is simple enough, i wasnt sure because in the list of things that most customers bought with the controller it had 3.5 and 4mm connectors. thanks again for all the help.