Not sure myself, some other members have had both. Anything 30c and up would be fine I am quite sure. I wouldn't worry about getting 45C crazy, and if you're willing to ditch hardcases you'll have lots more fit options.

About the Nimh's, I have to disagree. The market for them remains for the same reason the nitro market remains... because a moron is born every minute. Those of you who actually enjoy nitro may disregard the previous statement...

They are temperamental. And peaky. And nuclear hot when you're done.
Go ahead and try some in your Flux:lol:

You have a bad frame of reference. That's all. just get rid of them. Do it quick- band aid quick, and it won't hurt much.

The Turnigy's are better IMO.

They have noticeably more punch, run cooler and more mah are returned on the charger.

The Pack's I am comparing are Apples to Apples.

4S 20C 5000mah Zippy's
4S 20C 5000mah Turnigy's

My E Revo setup:
MMM ESC
Medusa 36-60-1500kv geared 22/40 using Mod 1 gears.

I had to upgrade the driveshafts to Traxxas CVD's, because it kept snapping the stock Drive Shafts. I run a tight slipper.

This is in an E Revo. Notice the gearing, this isn't a "light" amp draw setup.

I've seen discharge graphs on both the 20C/30C Turnigy's and the 30C/40C Turnigy's. I'm pretty sure they are the same cell.

Compare the weights and cell sizes.

I also run a set of 30C 5000mah Turnigy's and notice No Difference except the 30C packs come with 8Ga. Wire. Yeah, 8Ga. :yes:

The 20C packs come with 10Ga. Wire.

The Turnigy's will outperform SMC I'm sure.

Here's a 3S Turnigy 20C 5000mah discharge graph. It's half of a 6S setup being ran in a Savage Flux.

The Max was 112 amp draw. If you look on the graph at the 112 amp spike, it's holding 11.1 volts. That's 3.7 volts per cell.

That's more than 20C. :yes:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...repower20C.jpg

^listen to that guy^

wow $33 http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store..._30C_Lipo_Pack

Forgot if you're running 4 or 6s...

Hmm, I may go with Turnigys then and hell, go 3S this time for that price. I'm stick of paying with my soul for Lipo's and getting the shaft.....

There ya go! I am sure you will love 6s. Some guys like the "driveability" of 4s, whereas I see it like...I'd rather have too much power than not enough.

I'll probably wait till spring for new Lipos, im not gonna be able to do much more driving with the temperature dipping up here.

Can you elaborate a bit more on what i'm seeing on this graph? its kinda fuzzy and hard to read the details.

Be sure to watch your temps on 6s. You will actually be increasing the wattage being put out by the motor therefore increasing the heat it's putting out (it's not 100% efficient, afterall). If you can swing the cash, I'd go with 4s and 6s so you can have insane power when you want it but you can also tame it down to a more reasonable level.

Yes Mr. 6s muggy showoff :sarcastic:

The Blue Line is the Voltage. See at the top, the pack voltage at the beginning is about 12.5 volts. Almost fully charged.

The Red Line is Amp Draw. Each Red Line Spike is a stab at the throttle.

The Blue Line is pack volts.

The numbers on the right side are amps. The numbers on the left of the graph are for volts.

Pick a Red Spike on the graph, then go to the right to see how many amps that spike peaked at. Then under that same spike, see how low the blue line goes, then go to the left for the voltage value.

For each amp spike, you can get an idea of how the pack held voltage under the load.

I hope this makes sense to ya.

:rofl: LOL

Hey Unsullied. How's that Medusa 80mm holding up?

See, I DO occassionally know what I'm talking about :tongue: 170 degrees in 12 minutes is rather hot for a motor. If you want to run for the length of your batteries (I'm guessing 20-30 minutes) you'll want to make sure you aren't overheating or you can demagnetize the rotor. I'm sure you've noticed how obsessive I am about temperatures and as a result I've never cooked an ESC, motor, or battery as a result (saving a lot of money and frustration). I've never run one of those motors on 6s so I have no idea how long it will take to get beyond nominal temperatures but if you aren't careful you'll be making another thread about how pissed off you are at toasting a $140 motor.

Still holding up great. Had to Loctite the rear endbell back on after a few too many standing backflips but still alive and working hard to make me go broke buying tires :lol:

Hey Freeze - did you adjust your gearing after you changed your diff's?

From reading the other thread on pinions, I would say no.

The BP diffs are 3.22 vs 3.42 stockers. Not huge, but enuf.