Some of the switching regulators that I'm planning on using for a ESC I have plans for can provide plenty of current. This is one of the ideas I sent to a couple of people, one here in the US and another in Europe. None of them makes anything for the hobby so this will be their first project. The only thing, it'll be focused more on a higher voltage set up and plans for a 20S ESC is in there.

Making a BEC really isn't that hard, even an HV one. It's making one that can handle the potentially huge braking spikes and doing something to protect the components attached to it if it fails.

That's why I've contacted 2 of the best in the brushless business. One has a few patents for various designs and the other has a product that will take sometime for anyone to match. None though like I mentioned have done anything for our Hobby. At the moment we're just going back and forth with ideas.

They are not dumb. At least the 1S Lipo thing is not dumb. What it has done is allow the oval and road course racers to get the benfits of Lipo (and move away from NiMH technology) without either: a) having cars to fast to be controllable, or b) needing to run motors that are not readily available.

There isn't a lot of choice for pack voltages when using LiPos. Using the 2S lipos common in touring cars and 1/10th scale off-road cars makes carpet cars too fast for most people to drive even with the slowest motor available, the Novak 21.5. So by using 1S LiPos, they now have a selection of speeds that can accomodate entry level racers (17.5/1S) all the way to experienced drivers that want really fast cars (7.5/1S).

At my track the current record for 1S/13.5 pan cars is 90 laps in 5 minutes. or an average of 3.3 sec/lap. They are not slow by any means. They are averaging 23 MPH around an oval in a space 35ft by 60ft. Unless you have driven on carpet, you have no idea how fast these things can go when traction is essentially unlimited and you don't have to lift for the corners.

Do you have a car that can make a U-turn in the width of the typical driveway at 20+MPH? And do it 180 times in 5 minutes? 1S Lipo isn't dumb just because you do not have a car where 1S is useful.

Well, I could go into the fact you guys are racing with some of the worst designed motors on the planet... But I guess I can skip that part.

Anyways, 1s lipo is dumb when you could run 3s lipo, and a motor with 1/3 of the kv and do the same thing. Plus you could run a lighter battery with less capacity and have less anp draw and voltage drop. If the traction really is unlimited more power can be used.

I do not race, and have not raced on carpet, but I do know electric rc. I understand that you guys are stuck with roar (or whatever) rules and that you can only use certain motors. The fact you are working around this by using 1s lipos (and most likely not maxamps) that are very high quality does show that there are people with some creativity. The principle of what you are doing is a bit off, and the rules need to be changed to allow for that. Just making stuff work is not always the best way to go.

This is why I do not race. The rules can never keep up with the technology (as indicated by this 1s esc that has an advantage) so as usual the deepest pocket usually wins. I am glad to hear the smarter people are making do with a much cheaper esc (mmp) but that does not change the overall issue I have.

As long as you are having fun nothing I think really matters!!! It is just a hobby and should provide some relaxation! Please do not take my comments as anything other than my skewed beliefs, and I hope I have not insulted you in any way, as that was not my intention.

I raced my 12th scale with 4 cell NiMH and saw the 1S lipos guys being too light. I saw traction rolls and also a guy hit my car twice and suffered greatly. He blamed me for it of course (Track owner lol). The lipos are great as it provides the run time and punch doesn't fade away like the NiMH's does as I was just slowing down as the last few laps went by. I'm thinking of getting a few LifePO4 cells that are the same size as a SUB-C and run a 2S2P configuration. The maker of the cells has said the cells have shown to hold above 3V at close to 20C for the power cells and above 3V at around 10C for the energy cells. At 6V, I think LifePO4 should be a good choice for 12th or 10th scale pan car.

Some people like to race. In order to do that we need two things: Rules and people to race with. The wye-wound 2 pole, iron stator motors typified by Novak and others may be a bad design, but they are good enough to race with when everyone is using that same style of motor. "Just making stuff work" is what keeps people around who don't want to spend money on the latest and greatest. So that's what the racing organizations do - make stuff work.

It doesn't really matter if rules keep up with technology. In fact, for the people who don't have deep pockets, it is better that the rules don't keep up with technology because old tech is usually less expensive that new tech (MMP being an exception).

From what I have seen with pretty much ANY competitive sport where an organization strives to level the playing field is that people find ways to unlevel it again. This 1s lipo rule seems to me to be one of those. It's a lot like the old car audio competition days where people used "cheater" amps designed to run down to 1/2 ohm loads. Yeah, the amp may be rated at 20w into 4 ohms, but run it down to 1/2 ohm and you get 8x the power. Really, the only way to make things fair for everyone and not rely on how much cash you can throw at it would be to specify the exact battery, ESC, motor, suspension, etc to use. Basically, give everyone carbon copies of the same car and the only thing you can do it tweak the suspension for handling. That's it. What's next; the 1 NiMH cell class?

I still have my Orion and Memphins 25W x 2 cheating amps. I ran the Orion all the way down to 1/4 ohm and yes it was sick.

Like I said before, if ROAR wants to keep everything fairly cheap, they should handout esc/motor and now packs lol.

I do run 2s2p A123 in my Genx 10. Plenty of power for a 1/10 2wd car.

I dunno what the big deal is? it said right in the ad it was a low price....

Sub-C size would fit better I think. I have to see how mature the sub-c size life cells are to bring some in.

The part I put in bold is where the oval pan car racers are really hypocrites. They want the ESC, motor, and battery to be equal but the chassis/suspension open.

The 1S rule has nothing to do with leveling the playing field. It was instituted so that carpet racers can get the benefits of Lipo (over NiMH) without so much voltage that the cars are too fast for the majority to drive. The 2S LiPos make the cars too fast with the available motors. Changing just the battery voltage, was the simplest thing to do.

You guys talk about power motor outputs of 1000 or 1500 watts for your RC Monsters. Running at full throttle the whole race, a 1/10th pan car with a 13.5 motor runs on around 75 watts input to the motor, maybe 65 watts or less after you factor in motor efficiency.

Handouts only work at big races where the entry fees can cover the costs. Handouts are not feasible for club races.

They would fit better. The A123's are Ginormous.