looks pretty good man. Here's my build maybe it could give you some ideas, pretty close to what you want to do. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26353

I'll probably stick with the stock steering setup for now and see how it does. I will probably move it back a hair tho.

Wheelbase? Not sure. Its a stock wheelbase plus 3/4". Stock is 13.2" so my maxx will be right at 14" or so.

The top plate I'm planning on will tie the front into the center and into the rear so it should be pretty solid. I did think about using 1/8 scale chassis braces. Would be simple to make work and do pretty much the same job. I'm still thinking on this one.

LST shocks are a bit much for now, although the idea is still in my head. I bought mistercrash's LST XXL so when that gets here and I have some LST shocks to play with, I may give it a go. Otherwise I'm not going to buy some LST shocks to try out.



Thanks bro, I did look at your Maxx and get some ideas. Looks like you have access to some nice machine tools. I'm stuck with a band saw, hack saw, dremel and files. My grandpa bought a couple milling machine but never set them up, nor bought the right tools and setup equipment for it... I may have to light a fire under his ass to do that now...



Next question, what do you guy use to cut high quality aluminum? My band saw was struggling with this 6061-T6 grade. This is some tough stuff.

The revo would be a tough one to make a chassis for. I'd want to make it like your emaxx setup with the bottom of the bulks boted to the chassis. Making this happen with the thin amount of material at the front and the bends required threw me for a loop too while contemplating it. Because some sort of upper deck would definitely be needed with such a thin strip of chassis at the front.

Good job so far on the maxx build though. The ofna lx diff is a bit of a blessing when using the maxx diffs because of its rather large 51t spur. I have one saved for just such a project myself.

Get some good metal cutting blades and change em out when wore down. I cut my 1/8" 7075 with my jigsaw and had no problems at all; like butter... Black and Decker blades - I think.

+1 on the 1/8 style chassis braces. Keeps the COG even lower. Probably weigh less and do a better job at keeping the rear end bending as Kcaz said his did... I would go that route myself...

I've wanted to do this with mine for a long time now. I even started making a pattern for the chassis.

Can you show some picks of the chassis without anything mounted to it?

Why would 1/8th scale style chassis brace be stronger than a top deck that connects the front and rear to the center?

ben

A top deck would be another flat piece of metal essentially, that can bend at the same time the chassis does. Strength comes from triangulation, 1/8 style braces would go from the top of the diffs or somewhere on the tower to the chasssis forming a triangle shape which is MUCH stronger