Jas, do you remember what wheelbase you ended up with? Car looks good, I may have to pick up some revo shocks to use on my 1/7 on road car, the stockers are too soft and the spring size is weird...

link the spring size of the hobodies shocks is the same as old ofna and the same as sportworks, that may help you alittle

wheelbase was 360mm to suit the kyosho gt2 body.I fabricated the chassis myself. the revo shocks are the way to go, worked really well.

Hey Jas, looks like you starting to really like this drifting thing.:lol:

Just looking around at how much fun other people have drifting. I don't expect the rc8 to handle like that, though if it is more about the driver's ability then I could spend some time out the front of my house ....um..practicing:whistle:

I tried 6s lipo today. Really enjoyed the power and speed. The car is not tuned in yet so it is not any easier to drift. Chewed up the rear tires too, I know that's part of it but who knows what tire is best bang for buck?

Some of it is setup, alot is driver skill. A locked or very thick center diff would help as would running fluid that is thicker than an offroad setup in the front. I found lowering the ride height with the downtravel screws and adding a bit of preload to the shock springs helped too. My rc8 had too much body roll in stock form for drifting and street running in general.

The biggie would be tires, something that doesn't have a ton of grip. 1/10th drift tires are generally hard and alot of guys go with pvc pipe wrapped around their wheels or tires. Part of it is cost as PVC pipe is fairly cheap, lasts quite awhile and can make alot of "tires". But also, the more grip the tire has, the higher the speeds and more power you need to drift.

I tried a set of Imex rally tires (these http://www.imexrc.com/servlet/the-16...dsh-RIM/Detail ). I didn't want drift tires, but thats basically what I got with these. They were fun and alot more controllable than the PVC tired cars I've driven. They didn't last too long though. I got less than 15 packs out of a set before there were holes in them. Thankfully I got them at my LHS for alot cheaper than the online price.

These are definitely the best for the buck they don't even balloon buy 2 and u will be set for awhile and there also good for high-speeds!!!!

They sound similar to the tires I had:lol: Thanks for the info.

Not really drift related but I got the paint job mostly finished. Just need to drill holes and change the nose peice.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=784
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=785
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=786
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=787

I ment these sorry http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=03036430612

Nice body, that definitely says drift buggy on it.

I got the one way diff from order on NitroRCX, and go and behold it came with only one output cup. Lame, only 7 bucks so I really dont care.

I promise some vids next time I bring it to the office. I'm up in Oregon next week so bare with me.

Now that its winter its super easy to drift lol :)

Post number 7 is interesting.. I wonder if you can use the towers from a prospec?

Right now this is my powder spewing sideways screamer :lol:

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2632/img4296yn.jpg

They look like the right tires for spewing powder freeagent.

Thanks reno. I have a different body at the moment, found a testerossa that used to belong to my brother years ago. Got some vid of it - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3TUUVDLwW4

Near the end of the vid it's running without a body. I was testing a new tire. I managed to retread the rears. I liked the handling with less grip at the back. The retreads are made from strips of rubber I get at work.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=788
I cut the old tire so the bead remained, making the it level with the ribs on the rim.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=789
I was trying to give it plenty of glue near the join and, of course, glued my fingers. This pic was taken after the test run.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=790
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=791

I think I will still order wheels for the front.

Outside edge worn down completely after 1 run and inside edge untouched, it looks like you need to dial in more negative camber to maximise your contact patches, slightly strange as I had to dial out almost all of my camber when I went from round buggy tyres to flat on-road tyres.

I wasn't going to post as I'm not a competitive drifter but for what its worth I have an on-road buggy and it drifts like a goodun if I'm not gentle on the sticks. It is setup as thus; camber adjusted so theres even wear across all tyres, rear toe-in reduced considerably though it still has some, 50k front, 100k center, 10k rear diff oils, I was on stock medium springs and if i remember right 40wt front/50wt rear oils, I'm now on hard springs and 70wt front/80wt rear oils but my shocks are laying down MUCH more than they were so do less work for small amounts of wheel movement, ride-height so lower arms are level, Medial Pro Tarmac 2 tyres.

The tires that were on there didn't show the camber was out too far but they also had inserts. I guess solid rubber will show up the tell tale signs more clearly. I will adjust the down stops so it sits a little lower too.

You reduced the rear toe considerably?? i thought drifters had lots of toe. Thanks for your input anyway. I'll keep playing around with the setup.

Less rear toe in really helps with on power turn in, meaning you can throw it sideways while accelerating and rely on the slideways action scrubbing off your speed more rather than braking, but go too far and its very hard to go down the straight without fishtailing if you have any wheel slip.