Thank you . I just did a very simple paint job. It fits good but it does sit in front of the front bumper . does not matter to me. You do have to trim the back of the front fender flares so tires don't hit while turning.

I got my one today. I have to say that I am very impressed with it just from what I can see but the proof will be in the running of the truck. I am going to do a tear down and refill and grease all the diffs, check the pinion/ring gear mesh and just make sure everything is 100% before I start bashing it.

I managed to fit my Turnigy 5S 5000mAh 30C lipo in there with a small mod of the top deck. I tried to fit the 6S 5000mAh 40C pack in there but it's too tight. If I move the pack on it's side and change the wires from from 8awg to 10awg then it might fit too. I'll run it on 5S and then determine if 6S is even necessary. Can't wait to run this beast. I was also very impressed with the ACE radio. Definitely one of the best RTR radios that I have seen to date.

Pics and a vid to come soon.

Glad to hear your 5s pack fit in there. I was looking for a single 5s that would fit. I have run it with my Hyperion 2 and 3S 45c packs combined to make 5s but I had to strap them to the top of the cover. They are very long batteries. I will order the same turnigy pack as you.

4S is nice alone. 5s is very powerful and fast. I have no need for 6S.

Make sure to loctite the grub screw on the pinion...I even dremeled a small divot in the motor shaft where the screw contacts it.

It is also a must to loctite the set screws that hold the wheel hub pins in place. Use Heat shrink tube to hold the pins in also.

The truck is extremely durable and fun

hey Big Block let me know how that 5S works for ya.....I'm going to order one if I hear it works well for you. thanks

Hey Chainsaw, I haven't had the chance to run the MT4 just yet. Always one thing or another that gets in the way. Anyway I had some time to take pics of the battery fitment and what I had to do to the top deck in order to make it fit. Hope they are clear enough. Sorry but taking photos isn't something I am good at.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2w4mwyc.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/2nqwaxg.jpg
It almost looks like it isn't going to fit at this point but somehow it does. LOL

http://i43.tinypic.com/25ref81.jpg
You can see on the left how I have opened up the hole for the wires. I did a really rough job with a hobby knife but will clean it up with a Dremel later on and make it look all nice and round.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2vueayr.jpg
And here it is with the top deck on. It is a bit of a tight fit but I prefer it like that then have the lipo bouncing around in the tray.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2q9i9lv.jpg
Close up of the wires coming through the top deck.

http://i43.tinypic.com/6zug42.jpg
Now while the lipos fits I think it would be better to remove this bit here. I am not sure why it is there but I would rather not have it there. If the lipo slides back in the compartment it could get damaged by this thing. I will remove it with a dremel before I start running the truck.


http://i39.tinypic.com/fdd98x.jpg
What spins me out about this truck is all the room under the body. There is a huge void under there. I am worried about lid landings. Without anything underneath the body to support it I think this body will crack easily.

http://i44.tinypic.com/20a8nx3.jpg
My Axial wheel hex wrench can stand up under the body and it still isn't touching the shell. I think I might fit some sort of a roll bar to the upper deck or some sort of reinforcement between the shock towers.


What else I found interesting today was when I held the MT4 G3 and my Savage Flux, one in each hand. They were almost spot on with weight but the MT4 G3 had a 5S 5000mah lipos in it and Flux had none. I thought that was awesome. All signs are pointing towards a nimble and fun truck with this one

I just lowered my body down as low as it can go.....but some sort of support in the center is a good idea. maybe use a foam block of some sort with strong doublesided tape to the underside of the body? I also gorilla tape the the weak parts of underside of all my bodies for extra strength.

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...0/9c1e552a.jpg


I put this metal rod through holes I drilled in the front body posts. I had the posts smash through my proline F-650 body after many upside down landings. this will prevent them from going through again
http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...52696-orig.jpg

thanks for the pictures of the battery and how it fits.

Heres a simple thing to do to keep from losing your wheel hubs/pins. stretch a rubber grommet over to hold the pins in place. heat shrink tube works but these are easily revovable and replacable

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...1B907-orig.jpg

Great idea with the grommets. Even if the little grub screw backs out no chance of loosing your wheel. Excellent idea. Actually it looks very similar to the RC8T hex setup. They have a round spring clip that does the same thing. I wonder if it's same diameter. That would look factory. I have quite a few of them spare. I just need to find them.

I just wish I had the time to get in my garage and play with the toys a bit. Work has been a killer at the moment and leaves me no time for RC at all. I have 3 brand new toys sitting in the garage that I haven't had a chance to use at all. Really sucks.

That would be cool if the rc8 spring clips work. I wouldn't be surprised because the diffs are rc8 diffs.

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...0/101e1235.jpg

Got my Hyperion 5000mah 45c 5s set up to fit nice and snug.

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...0/d8b67180.jpg

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...0/fa000785.jpg

This bug body is my favorite that I have for mt truck

Looks good. I also like the bug bodies on MTs. I used to have one on my 2.5 Revo and was probably my favorite body. Is that the short or long version you used there? Wondering which one would fit better.
Also have you notices a big power difference changing to the Castle 1515 motor? I did some testing a while ago with the Leopard 2150kv (the one in the MT4 is same motor just 2000kv) against the Castle 2200kv. Difference was pretty big IMO. I could feel more power everywhere but the Leopard did seem a little bit smoother. Both ran at similar temps with same gearing. Would be interested to hear your thoughts. I was thinking of trying the Leopard 4082 2200kv from Offshore Racing and see how the longer can goes.

I still haven't used my one yet. Decided not to go into work tomorrow and going to give the whole truck a once over in the morning and hopefully by lunchtime I will be having some fun with it at the skate park.

Yeah I had this bug body on my E-Revo so it's the long one......my e-revo just sits and doesnt get used anymore!!!
definitely my favorite body.... I can't wait to wreck it so I can paint up a new one.

You can tell i love this truck because this is actually my second MT-4 , so I have 2 to compare. One is set up with stock motor/ ESC with a 48 tooth metal spur and a 4s lipo setup. The new one has the MMM ESC/2200 running mostly 5s with stock 50 tooth spur gear.

I am happy with the stock brushless system but I am even more thrilled with the castle system. If I bash real hard nonstop crazy on 4s for 20 minutes with the stock/48 spur truck my temps average 160 to 180... I even had it slightly over 200 a few weeks ago with trenchers on ( bashing extremely hard in a small area)

I can bash theMMM MT-4 just as hard on 5s for twenty minutes and I have yet to see temps over 130!

But I did also test the MMM one on 4s a few times and it's noticeably faster even though it's geared a tad lower

http://wondertiger.com/.

Check out this site dedicated to the MT4- g3. Lots of info , video , pics and more.... He is doing an awesome job.

It looks big.
How tall are the tires?
What is the wheel base on it?

http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/...0/731f2751.jpg

It's about the size of a summit. Tires are same diameter as proline trenchers. Don't know the measurement off the top oft head. I'll check for ya later