I just drew up a quick diagram that shows the differences in the connections. Personally, I think the one on top is better because the group of cells in parallel function together as one cell, making balancing a lot easier. However, the one on bottom would work best if you used smaller packs in one vehicle (like a 1/18 car) that were then paralleled for use in a larger vehicle (like a 1/10 car).

nvm didnt see 2nd page

Li-Saver
 

Hey guys I have wired for parallel now and It is very clear with Li-Saver instructions how to wire to one Apachees 5s, but I am unclear how to include the second 5s battery. Do I just piggyback it to the other battery .?Then use one positive & neg set into Li-Saver

Any good diagrams out there? I do have a switch prior to the BEC before going to the RX.

Lipo wiring Help
 

Lipo Wiring Help

If the 2 battery packs are wired in parallel, then the LiSaver is connected to both batteries. In a parallel connection, both battery packs will be at the same voltage all the time. Another way you could connected the LiSaver is to the battery input leads on your speed control. This would remove any hassle that you might deal with by having it connected to your battery(s).

Thanks Metalman for your reply. The 12020 has 2 red & 2 blk coming out. I have taken one red to each 5s and one black to each 5s via deans ultra plugs. Mikes new "Car Version" Li-saver uses an ultra plug male & female harness w/ small gage wire hooked direct to li-saver . this is inserted btween the 12020 & battery,this takes care of
one 5s apachee, Can I make a simular harness for the other battery combine them together for a single parallel imput to the Li-saver?

Also I have the UBEC hooked to one 5s only w/ a switch in line. Is that OK? Will the ubec run one battery off or will Li-Saver detect that. I have disabled the 12020 bec.

thanks Mark

You don't need a switch on the UBEC.

The separate wires for the battery input are in fact connected to the same source on the circuit board of the 12020. So, anything connected to the input wires will use both batteries.

Thanks Metalman, just wanted to be sure, no mistakes will be easier on my $wallet! Just some minor wiring project left and I will be up & running. Have run it alittle & first impression is considerably more power.

That's always a good thing :). You have a crapload of power available to you using those two 5s packs in parallel. Each pack is capable of about 1600watt bursts, so total you have 3200watts on your hands! Just to give you an idea how much that is, if you had a motor that could take advantage of that, it would be at about 4 1/4 horsepower.

Sorry to ask this in your thread mark but can some1 tell me if this LiSaver makes it obvious enough when you batteries are dead if so where can i get one thatll ship to the UK will save alot of room in the setup im planng as apose to 2 cut of devices

Li-saver operation
 

Monkey I will hook you up with the info after this weekend of running it.
The li-saver claims it pulses the acceceleration. I will run it and find -out. The Li-saver "car version" came from "Monster Mike" . Stay tuned I will keep you posted.

Mark