I just bought that shaft.. Thanks!!

Will mock up the front and let you know. Im pretty sure I need a 74mm shaft but ill mock up.

133mm > http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-T...item565165ec8d

It may take buying a couple to see what fits. I'm unsure what manufacturers measure pin to pin and which do end to end.

I saw that 73mm one too.. Its coming out of tawain though so quality and length of time to get was reason for not getting it. Ill see if I can squeeze that 76mm in.. I don't think so though.

I just made straws and the 131mm should work in the rear and for the front i need 72 or 73mm

Mike has located a couple dogbones for me and shipped them out today! I think when this is all said and done I'll have several bones :) Oh well...when someone has a bone to pick with me I'll give them one of those :)

Next thing I'm going to try and figure out how to do is get the magnet and pick up mounted to a drive line component for the Traxxas Link system so I can continue to get my telemetry :)

That's part of the fun of custom builds!:yes:

FYI, if you need custom length dog bones there are some guys over on the UE forum who can make them for you. :)

Cool...thanks gumleguf...Mine are all supposed to show up by Friday...anxiously spinning my wheels waiting to try out the Slipperential :P

[IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/34njekl.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/19130w.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/29267vn.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/2zh1do4.jpg[/IMG]



OK...So, there's some pictures of my trusty ole' Emaxx'ish.

I just got the slipper installed and received my dogbones in the mail today....they fit like a glove and everything works well!!

I have some questions (of course :) ): I bought the brake kit to use with the slipperential but didn't install because there were three little pad looking ceramic looking discs that came with the slipper...are those for clutch or braking?? I have the brake kit still (un-opened). I don't seem to have 1/2 the brakes I used to...or....is this normal for functionality for a center diff. setup?

Second as you can see I bought Mike's battery boxes....but, they don't fit my FLM chassis....anyone else run into this too? They are notched sideways on the trays....I'm not sure what that's for but, I'm assuming it's so the trays drop down into the slats in the FLM chassis...the trays are too wide to fit down in for mine....thoughts? Suggestions?

I've just run the truck up/down my street (27 degrees out and pitch black...lol...I couldn't wait) but, so far it's really nice...when you start out it's not ballistic like it was before with the transmission. I'm sure I could stand to tighten up the slipper more to obtain more aggressive starts...? Also, I need a good supply of different pinon gears. I have 18t pinon on now with 58t spur. Seems good but, I like to tinker more than driving the truck...my wife...well, she's not really on that same plan.


What's next for the truck?????

I have both FLM suspension arms and RPM arms. Right now I have FLM front and RPM rear...I like the rear RPM set up way better! I have FLM front and rear hybrid Diffs, traxxas link system (telemetry), moooomba system with fan, 3s and 2s lipo's...currious to try 4-6s are like....probably just more $ for more crazy speed you can't really do anything with. I have Proline shocks with traxxas springs (LOVE THESE), FLM towers...4 different sets of tires (big joes {these are show tires...they useless IMO}, street rage, Proline response and response pro's. ANY thoughts for other upgrades.....other than a buggy :)

By the way...My roll cage might look weird because I cut off the top part of the cage and turned it around and re-welded it back on...I wanted to try and fit the Jeep body on and came up with that no cost solution! Anyway, that's why it looks backwards

Did you follow the instructions properly- the 3 ceramic pads need to be installed in a specific location:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...4&d=1238811331

I think your brakes will be better once you install those, though, it may also take some fine tuning & different fluid weights to get back the same brake feeling ( a very different setup compared to a 'solid' centre drive line as it were )...

Which specific trays did you buy? The generic tray option will not fit without mods, you needed to specify during ordering that the trays were for the FLM 3905 chassis, then Mike could have altered the design to fit perfectly ( made to order ). If you're running hardcase lipos though, then trays aren't really needed- just put the packs directly on the chassis and use the velcro straps to hold them in place- they shouldn't slide around due to the recess milled into the chassis for the lipos to snug down into.

You can certainly tighten the slipper, and play with fluid weights to get more aggressive acceleration ( bare in mind the whole idea of the slipperential is to make starts less aggressive & to reduce wheelies & back flips- it's more a design for racing than general bashing, though it works either way ).

Not really much more you can do, besides maybe a lighting kit for those dark evenings...

Yes, I did follow the instructions. The brakes work they just don't have the bite that the brakes had with the transmission. I'm wondering if I don't need the brake kit I ordered. I linking Mike to the thread so hopefully he'll chime in...

I like the feel of the slipper unit so far...the acceleration from a start was too much! I'm going to take it out this weekend and see how it does. I think I put 5000 oil in it...I can't remember though...I could be WAY Off on that...

I do have lights that I'm going to put in the Jeep body :)

The slots on the trays are for the battery straps - I don't think mike makes and specific trays for the FLM Max.

The brake kit is not required - You are going to use motor braking. The slipperential should be almost tight - you want very little slip especially with that monster tire combo.

I'd be looking at more like 30k or 50k with that setup.