I didn't get a bad email from him or nothing. I asked nicely and gave and explantion as well. I think it is all good. :D

Good job Leroy! Hope all is well for you!

Use the UE for the stock application/widemaxx application. The best alternate would be from hardcore racing. Then I guess the Integy would be next. I have no faith in their products but others here such as cool hand feel that they have improved alot and are a good value for an intermediate quality product.

http://www.racinghardcore.com/

For knuckles, I think the best setup would be a 3.3 type alternative. The RD Racing Revo knuckles with the 3.3 sliders would be a great setup. Even better if you can also get the 23mm hubs with the 8mm axles for the sliders.

The only problem with the 3.3 parts is the extra width which limits your wheel and tyre choice to revo offset.

With std offset maxx rims on 3.3 knuckles it puts the track width at nearly 14" which i think is a bit wide unless it's a very extended wheelbase.the wheelbase should always be greater than the track width i reckon or atleast close.

the hardcoreracing adress is this now BTWhttp://hcrracing.com

Leroy, did you managed to the the UE knuckles from ebay?

i am looking for a set of them for ages...

I did get a set off ebay. I am debating on selling or parting out the truck. It has some nice things on it to. Just not sure if going to keep them.

You could sell me the knuckles....
do they use 15 or 16mm bearings?

They use the 16 mm bearings. I got a set of 8mm ue cvds thru them at the moment. I lost a pin out one :( I need to put an order in for one. I not sure what I going to do yet rene. I let you know what the paln is when it comes clear to me.

I personally would sell them to me, Leroy.... LOL

I've explored that avenue and found a few more hurdles than I had first thought. I used Supermaxx EXT knuckles, RPM upper arm w/a little cut off the end to make up for the extended top on the Supermaxx knuckles, Proline lower arms, and titanium turnbuckles. The problem is Supermaxx knuckles do not have the arm that attaches to the turnbuckle centered on the knuckle, they are right left and front back specific. The arm is about an 1/8 inch higher than center. I beleive you also have to use UE turn buckles which have a bit of an offset and make up for the offset arm location. Without the UE turnbuckles the wheels toe in noticably and also increase in camber as they go through their travel. Another thing I have noticed with Aluminum knuckles of any kind is increased binding, I think it is the fact that there is metal to metal contact (suspension ball to inside surface of the knuckle). You either have to constantly lube them or run them a little on the loose side. Just my 2 cents:018: If I find a solution for the before mentioned problem I'll post it.

The UE knuckles are indeed location specific, but there is no need to use the UE turnbuckles(not that it is a bad idea, though). You can space the turnbuckles with washers to eliminate the bump steer you described(make sure the turnbuckles are in the proper location as well), but the increasing negative camber through the suspension compression travel is one of the "features" of the racer x suspension - this keeps the tires flatter when the truck dips into a turn, which improves traction.
The pillow balls, well, it is tricky to dial this in - too tight and they bind and too loose creates slop. The difference between these two setting is the sweet spot, but this spot is small indeed(we are talking one or 2 degrees on the wrench when dialing this in).
I have done this little trick in the past and it indeed is doable, without a whole lot of trouble. I probably have the setup in a box somewhere, actually. :)

I'll have to try the spacers.:018:
If I ever have a RC question I know Mike has the answer, thanks again Mike.:027:

yes, Mike does normally have the answer..along with alot of other people here on the forum do as well....just ask....