Look at the closeup pic of the motor without a heatsink on. You will see thin multi-colored wires exiting the rear endbell.

Nice thread Captain, Megatron sends his regards :cool:

MetalMan is correct, this motor is sensored.
The motor is a Maxcim N32 made by a fellow in New York (Maxcim Motors) He no longer makes them but will service the existing ones. I would say this motor probably compares closley to the 7xl with its 2500kv and 18 cells. So, once I got the gear ratio/cell count right, it powered the buggy around very nicely.

I did take the buggy to the track a few times but never got a chance to race it.

In the recent pictures you can see its setup with Mikes 10t mod1 pinion and the ofna 51t plastic spur. I found an ofna solid axle spur gear plate that I modified to work with the mugen center diff and the 51t spur gear. I only needed to offset the diff height slightly to get enough clearance for the spur.

The body I have for it is pretty sweet too. My buddy air brushed it for me. I'll have to post a pic of it later :)

And a few pics of the body:
http://home.earthlink.net/~j1138/evo/bbody.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~j1138/evo/bbody3.jpg

drool :Love:

That is sweet. IF I had a buggie. I wish I had a top that looked that nice.

Indeed.

What body is that? It looks a bit like my Proline Crowd Pleazer 7.5/9.5, but i can't quite tell.

Very Clean looking dude... Nice job on the Chassis plate.. I gotta do something like that too...

Looks a lot better than my Brushless 1992 Inferno.. hahaah :)

Starscream,how do you like the solderless power tubes?

I'm considering getting some gp2200 packs of theirs so anything to bear in mind with them?

Hey Gustav,

I really like the solderless power tubes. For NiMh batts, they are the only way to go IMO. They are all I currently run with.

I can't say enough about the GP2200's. They are a great weight savings, especially when you are running higher voltage systems.

Are you going to run these in a buggy? How many cells are you planning on running?

The GP3300/3700's have a bit more punch but with the weight savings, in my experience, they are pretty equal in power output.

I am planning on getting the FMA Skyvolt lipo's soon.

Thanks starscream,

i'm going to run an xxxt MF2 on 8 gp2200s,with a basic4200,a 8 cell stick pack should fit if i can get their race end caps/contacts.In another truck (LST front and rear end)i'm either going to run 24 gp2200s or a pair of 4s skyvolt packs in series with a lehner 2240/12.

I'll try those solderless power tubes.It'd be handy to be able to reassemble packs so easily since we're always trying different set ups/cell counts.

I measured the difference between the six cell GP3700 pack and the 8 cell GP2200 pack. The gp2200 pack is just about 5mm longer.

Wow, the 2240/12 is an awesome motor. I'd run lipos in that bad boy ;) Either way, that truck is going to be a beast.

I was looking at the lehner 2240/10 but my budget won't allow for that right now. Especially looking at the price of the skyvolts.

I'm not sure what kind of runtime you'll get with the 2200's but I get about 14.5 minute racing runtimes with my revo on 18 cells.

When I first saw the mention of GP2200's, I thought it was a typo....now that you've talked about them a bit more, it's apparent that it isn't. So now my question is: where you get these things? I've never heard of them, let alone understand why they get nearly 15 minute of runtime!

Higher voltage is the key for longer runtimes. I not only get 14+ minute runtimes but beat nitros with these little guys. With higher voltage you can make more power with less current (Amps) thus achieving better efficiency (runtime)

You should see if Mike can get you some 2200's otherwise pm me.
These cells cost around the same as GP3300/3700's but they weigh a third less. I notice a definite performace gain with less weight.

Here's the list of GP batteries: Gold Peak

Here's the specs on the 2200's: GP 2200's

Gustav,

I just remembered one thing about these cells...
In order to get these to make contact in the power tubes you will need to remove a very small portion of the shrink wrap on the negative end of the cell. An exacto knife will do the trick. Just hold the knife in place and spin the cell to cut the plastic wrap. Its not hard to do at all, pm me if you need help.

If you get these from Pete, they should already be done this way.