I think plastic is much better and safer. I dont know how should you put it on the motor, but does it hold up perfectly?

I wouldn't want the motor with holes in it. Where I use my truck it will get loads of gank in it (wet British fields). Without the cap I would go for a 1940 or 1950, makes the Neus usuable for me, which for the performance and price, I would prefer + cap over the Lehners.

Yeah, with both the neu and the lehner motors in my hands, i must say i am impressed with the Neu's.

Could you explain rene? I like some features about them both.

Which do you prefer? Ignoring the price difference.

I like the looks and feel of the Neu better. A 1515 is a fat motor.

Plus they are 4 poles.

The cap is made from delrin. Rene's is an early prototype. I made one from aluminum as well, but the nice thing with the delrin is the fact that I can make the pocket ID slightly undersized - kind of a press fit. This allows friction to hold it on the motor vs. an adhesive. The aluminum cap looks sweet, but it can't be simply pressed on to stayin place. I used a rubber mallet to tap the delrin one onto the rear of the motor - not likely to go anywhere and is a nice tight seal. The motor wire holes are NOT large enough to push a 5.5mm plug through, but a 4mm or 3.5mm plug will fit through. If using 5.5mm plugs, they have to be soldered onto the wires after installing the cap.

nice idea Mike, good idea by "thinking outside the box".....I'm sure the neu owners will scarf them up.....

Sweet! Simple yet effective!

If the Aluminum one can be made so it will stay on there, how about adding some kind of mount point to hook a rear brace on it to support the back of the motor? Just a solid tab with so the user can drill whatever hole they want to use.

Or is the Delrin one strong enough for this? Maybe one can drill a hole in the cap where one of the motor holes would be and insert a button cap screw there from the inside.

Just my $0.02.

Mike - YGPM lol

The cap is 's a great idea and I like that it's also very light. Couldn't you just tap it and run a 3mm set screw up against the can to help hold it on?? BrianG, you mentioned drilling it above, we're you talking about doing the same thing? Another simple idea that was mentioned was aluminum ducktape, it works good at blocking stuff but is gooyie when it gets hot, aluminum heat tape for furnaces works great!! It is very light, dry type adhevise, made for "hot" surfaces, it's also true aluminum so it disipates (sp) heat very quickly thus not affecting (if it really does by much) your over all running temps. If your concearned about it coming loose you can run a VERY small bead of clear, high temp, silicon around the edge of it to help "seal" it to the back of the can.

Just my thoughts, from other motors I've used, I don't actually own a Neu motor.. yet!

Put me on the list! I want one!

Me too! How much, Mike?

If you are still working on a design, perhaps look at what this company has to offer (at least it was something I was thinking of):

http://www.stockcap.com/prod_detail.asp?id=126&cat=14

They have a whole assortment of vinyl and LDPE caps, plugs and flange covers that may work really well. The caps themselves are generally very inexpensive ($.01 to ~$0.1 per cap) and usually ready to ship. This option isn't really available to a single user b/c they have min orders of several hundred (depending on cap) but may work well for you as a distributor.

You can get ~free samples as well to try a few differnt ones out. The vinyl are particularly nice as they are stretchy and would snug fit the motor. Something like SR-1525 or SR-1650 may work quite well for a rear cover. An LDPE cap could be found for the front if needed.

The only consideration is how well the vinyl would continue to work on a hot motor.

I was also going to say that putting a zip tie around the motor wires upto the cap, or putting a bit of shoe goo around the wire holes should also work to extra secure the cap and seal it up.

The vinyl stockcaps could be cut with undersized holes to also secure it onto the motor and seal it up as well. Should make it easily removable to get to the bearing for oiling.

:)