Quark has an extremely good customer service policy call them the'll tell you to ship it to them and the'll ship you a new one.:018:

I think maybe there should be a sticky for FAQ's on the Quark!

You going to run a slipperential. The one above is with a truggy. Alot taller gearing that you have with the slipperential.

I agree! Topics addressed should be adding heatsink(s)/fan(s) and how it doesn't "like" 6s even though it says it can. Maybe add the address/phone number, email address of S&T. After all, it's rated for 6s; maybe the newer models have a firmware revision?

I ran it today with my wattmeter attached and it was only drawing 700 watts, when it used to draw a little over 1700. I put a call in to Quark and they said to send it in. Their customer service seems to be very friendly.

Unfortunately if it is found to be defective, I will lose my freshly epoxied heatsinks. But that means I can pick up the newly designed one in Mikes store. :005:

The Mamba Max thermals at 225 while the Quark Thermals at 170 is it just a matter of thermal cut off temp?:032: :032: :032: 55 deg. is a big difference.

It's weird. I originally bought this controller to rid heat issues while going lipo cuz i ran the 9920. I may just stick with BK

If you have heat issues with one ESC, you most likely are going to have heat issues with just about all of them. The higher current ones generally have less output resistance so will heat up less under lesser currents, but getting a high current ESC isn't solving the problem. It shouldn't heat up that much. There has to be a reason for the heat; excess drive train drag, slightly incorrect gearing, or inadequate batteries. Even with all of these things set up ideally, running at full throttle for extended times tends to heat them up too.

A 50 deg. variation in thermal cutoff has to make a difference.:032:

Yeah, I'm sure it does. One thing the MM has going for it is the fact that the heatsink is directly on the FETs, while the Quark has those pads. While supposedly thermally conductive, they do have some thermal resistance. It sounds like Quark derates the cutoff to allow for this. Ever since I took my 125B apart and got rid of those thermal pads and used epoxy, the heatsink gets hot quicker and cools quicker indicating better thermal efficiency. Overall temps are less too. So it acts more like the MM heatsink. Since then, I haven't it get anywhere close to too hot to touch.

this is the weird part for me Brian, my esc is not necessarily HOT. I can touch it and keep my hand on it, same with the wires that come out that go to the motor. What happens (i'm sure you heard this already) is that it jsut stops. If I bump the brake then it'll go again for another 3-4 min, then stall, give her a bump, and off I am. And this is on a track jsut doing laps, not really using any brakes either. I called Qaurk, and they said to send it in, but haven't yet. The reason is because I can run for about 15 min before this starts going on.

That is just weird. I can run through 3 sets of 14xGP3300 packs in a row and there is no such action. I wouldn't trade this ESC for any BK; the programmability and contruction alone were worth it.

I would definitely send yours in. I think you'll love it once you get it running right. Don't give up on it yet!

Have you tried a rx pack on it first. Maybe the ubec is cutting off or losing connection.

would the ubec do that though? it seems weird as I'm not the only one that his this particualr problem with it cutting out like this. What would cuz it to do this after 15 min or so?

Well, this is kinda reaching, but the UBEC could be a culprit. After some time loading the UBEC, it will get a little warmer and might change some if its characteristics. Switcher regulators can be "fussy" at times if not designed exactly right. Try adding a capacitor to the power and ground leads of the unused Rx output. This will at least clean up some of the possibly noisy power going to the Rx. If the power going to the Rx is not clean DC, the signal coming out might not be pretty either and the ESC might get confused. Adding a cap is always a good idea IMO; not only does it help clean up the DC, it also provides a little more current capacity so the UBEC doesn't have to work so hard to provide fluctuating current demands. I usually use 1,000uF and 10v to 16v.

To see if this would even help, try using an Rx pack first.