So what do we recomend I get diff wise, for my beast?

What have you got for diffs now? Maximizer cups inside aluminum cases work very well when shimmed properly. For the ultimate, the UE 8 spider diffs are probably the toughest out there, but you will have to address the cvds issue tyo run them. What suspension do you have?

I am running stock diffs with a spool in the rear. Do you think that I would be able to get away with running stock gears but with the maximizer cups and aluminum case? As far as my suspension goes, I cant remember the name of the shocks that I have, (bought them on e-bay) but here is a pic of them with RPM a-arms, carbonfiber/aluminum shock tower and every thing else stock.

Most of the people here, have got the stock diffgears, with an aluminum cup and an aluminum diff case.

The thing with the gears that sit in the diff (and the ringgear/pinion) that is that they are modified by traxxas (i read this on another forum) and they are as good as the RR gears now.

if the diffhousing and the diffcup has got no flex, the gears will be doing fine.

BUT in your case, i would use UE diffs for SURE!

I am a person who likes to be on the save side, i bought a set of UE 8spiders too, and i a going to drive my maxx with a 22 serie lehner motor on about 18-24 cells in the future. and a 7XL and a centerdiff to start with.. (lightweigt big motor setup on 12-14 cells)

I asked FLM if they are going to make the 1/8th diff bulkless fit the savage diffs, he told me, that he thought of that too, and perhaps getting them adapted to fit. (that would be a nice, rather cheap, yet heavy duty differential. I can make a very good and bulletproof savage diff. It needs a HB lighting diffcup, lightning hardened crosspins and the savage gears. So if you decide to do so, please let me know, i will give you some tips if needed.

though i don't know how long it takes, before they have adapted those bulkless things.. (would not take long, when i could make them.. ;) ) Perhaps Mike can ask him again?

And the shocks your using are the Hotbodies threated.

I agree, I would go with the UE diffs for sure. I have the stock diffgears, with an aluminum cup and an aluminum diff case. I have reshimmed them a few times allready. One time a just reshimed and put new gears in my diffs at my local track. I left the track with the rear diff gears brocken and the front diffs loose as a goose (same problem in the sand). Granted I'm a little trigger happy but it still sucks. Like Mike said earlier you will need to modify the spool to a bigger screw size. My spool bolts snapped on the first set of batt. The ulttramaxx tranny gears will also be a must. Currently I am waiting for my set that I ordered. My E-maxx has been sitting for awhile do to my smoked tranny and lack of $$. MY trigger happy finger and the beach sand put my E-maxx to the MAXX everytime. I hope with the new ultramaxx tranny gears, and a fresh rebuild on my diffs that it will be a solid truck, since the radio and the shifting servo is the only thing left to replace.

Wow. Seems kinda funny. Here I spend all this money on my setup, and I am having a hard time justifying $260 for a set of diffs.:C:
I will probably just stick with the maximizer cups and aluminum case with stock gears until they break, then upgrade. Unless you really think otherwise Mike?
Dang, I hate being a tight-wadd.

It is logicall.

260 dollars IS a lot of money, BUT, consider this..;

If you buy two quality 1/8th buggy diffs, they will be 40 dollars each. The pinion is about 10 bucks, that makes a total of 50 bucks for 1 diff. (excluding the cup, that fits on the pinion, and excl. bearings.) If you buy the 8 spiders from UE, they are 67 dollars each, including the bearings and cups..

You could sell your old gears/diffs, just rebuild them and they will be as new..

The 1/8 diffs are the ultimate in durability, but the Maximizer diffs inside aluminum cases, when properly shimmed can take quite a bit of abuse. If you aren't doing any jumping or svere off road running, the maximizer diffs will likely last you a long time. If you want to freely smash your truck into oblivion, the 1/8 diffs will be the better option.

Do the UE diffs have to be put together or do they allready come assembled?

They will need assembling and shimming.

They are pricey, but then the best always is

Which Turn 2250 are you buying?? Also what the kv rating on it if I may ask?

try putting the spool upfront and you might get better acceleration and it wont do wheelies so bad

I can't find a relation with that question?