First of all, I'd make some type of flat plate mounted on top of the right servo mount all the way to your current "receiver and antenna mount". That will give you lots of room for batteries, the receiver, and controller etc. You might even do the same for the other side so you can balance the weight by putting batts on each side. From experience, I would try to arrange the batteries so they have plenty of support - so put the somewhat near the front since there is more strength there (unless you re-inforce it somehow). The motors are layed out more to the rear, so that should help lateral balance.

Jusdging by the receiver and antenna layout, you probably have a damaged antenna wire. The wire looks ok, but the actual metal wire inside the insulation could have a hairline break causing sporadic connection, which would explain the problems you are having. I had a brand new Spektrum receiver with a broken antenna wire and it was doing weird stuff so it can happen.

As far as the A123 charger is concerned, it may need to be fixed. Or, pick up a charger that does Lipos and A123 cells...

well i emailed a123racing and told them my problem. if they cant fix it or replace it then i will figurer out a way to use my ice charger. ive never tried it so im not sure how it would work.

Are you using the MM's internal BEC? And those batts are in series for 6s, right?

correct. do i need a ubec?

With 6s A123's? Definitely!

And you're running 6s on the MM? That's more than 5s normal lipos. You're really pushing it aren't you? :eek:

o lol wow i am overdoing it... haha i thought i was aloud 5s lipo so 6s a123 would be ok.. am i like 5v over?

Well, max charge on 6s A123's is 3.6v/cell. That's 21.6v. Of course, that voltage will drop down to 3.3v/cell (19.8v total) in a short time, but that's still high IMO. People have run the MM on 5s lipos, but it really is pushing it. You might be just fine, or you might end up shortening thge ESC's life span. Personally, I'd go no higher than 5s A123's. That would be 18v right off the charger and 16.5v for most of the run.

so i f i have a ubec will it be ok? dont feel like taking of a cell of one of my a123 packs

thanks

You should be fine with a UBEC or rx pack for the time being.

That stuttering or glitching or whatever you are getting is being caused by the BEC chip shutting down from getting too hot, and then turning back on. Either a RX pack or a UBEC should fix this radio issue.

cool i have the trx power pack that ill use

thanks

hey well i was roling the revo around manually when all of a sudden something like caught and now the tranny doesnt spin the truck..

i got a vid of the problem so if you gusy would take a look and lmk what might be the problem thatd be sweet!

http://video.google.com/videouploadf...c7a118d171fa6e

before you say what to do though... lemme say what i have done...'
1. i looked at all the shafts to make sure one isnt off or w.e
2. i tighted the allen to make sure it wasnt just loose (the shafts)
3. i tightened this nut behind the motors (it spins while the motor spins)

i have not yet opened up the tranny.. dont really wanna do hat unless thats the only way.

thanks guys!

i dont really see it but;
is there a shifting servo atached?
or is it locked in first or second?
if one of these is a yes then you might have stripped idlers.

Hey. I had the same problem, the input shafts little pin which holds the gears in snapped off. It is an easy fix. Id just put in a hex driver or a thicker screw in.

lol so how do i fix it?