hmm that could be my 2speed switch but i switch the switch back and froth and it shifts fine id test but right now its all tore down to replace driveshafts lol

I also had a had a weak shifting servo. It would get stuck in a neutral. position. I swaped servos and problem solved.

For bashing go Savage. I have a e-maxx that I love, but in the process of beefing it up so it won't break so easy I went and spent a ton of cash on it. Now it doesnt break anymore cuz it was so dang expensive I'm afraid to bash it hard.

I'm just starting on converting a savage that will remain as close to stock as possible (ecept it will be brushless) and its sole purpose in life will be to do the things that I wont do with my high dollar Maxx.

My opinion... go with the savage for pure bashing. It'll be cheaper in the long run.

well i live somewhere it rains ... ALOT even tho we are getting into summer it still rains here ALOT so i am very tired of not being able to play with my e-maxx cux im afraid to kill the ESC in the water so i was thinking i would go savage so i could beat the $Hit outa it in the mud and rain and if i didnt like the gas or decided it just wasnt worth it id convert it to electric ... but if i might leave it gas i have to concider the revo again since the parts are more available locally i just got a mini-t from a friend for super cheap so that can be my "fair weather" car and the gas can be the rainy weather car lol

You have to water proof nitros as well. Anyhow, here is a guy with a Savage cruising around a lake.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/richard.short40/water.wmv

Just waterproof the maxx.

As six shooter mentioned ALL rc's need to be waterproofed if being run in/around water.

Servos, receivers, and esc's all need protection!

my lhs wanted $65 for ONE set of MIP cvds .... and $55 for the center set
then they wanted $70 for the robinson racing diff gears and cup isnt that all a bit high ? i dunno maybe not. but i can use rdlogic cvds instead and only pay about $50 shipped for the entire set but you add all that up and thats a ton of money just to make something not break all the time .... im still concidering going nitro because i hate having 2 batteries then again i might be geting a mamba max from a friend for ... a really good price so then all i would need is a motor and i could run one battery .. but i should prolly go lipo then...

Why not use 3.3 specs driveshafts? They are inexpensive, tough, and flex slightly on the "big bits". Best value going.

I owned a set of RD-Logics and they looked nice. Almost as nice as Unlimited Engineering.
HOWEVER, I never actually used mine and I've heard that while they look nice the steel they use is cheap and breaks easily. I can't confirm or deny that personally but I can tell you that I've used the Traxxas 3.3 shafts (on my REVO 3.3 and they have been perfect!) and the UE Supermaxx 6mm on my SUpermaxx-Emaxx and they are tough!

Hope that's helpful.

Traxxas has started making CVDs...9.99 for two drive shafts and 20.00 for Centers. I'm not sure how well they work but I may give them a try. It want be until next month before they're released. As for RD Logics, I'm running a set on my son's Emaxx with zero issues. I always refer to them as off brands. Anyhow, I also run the stock centers as well. The only broken parts so far is a set of rear gears...maybe front also. But I'm also running stock Titans on his truck. I plan on running one of the above CVDs on my BL Emaxx soon. Just waiting on parts.

As for Nitro or Electric...thats a hard one. Now either way you choose, you will still need to beef up your vehicle. One way to do it, is to wait tell a weak part breaks and replace it with a better part.

well right now i think my diff gears are going out cuz when i go from rev to forward i get a gear striping sound ... like it just skiped a few gears i took the diffs apart and cant see any signs of the gears striping but then again it might just be a combination of the plastic diff case flexing and the non shimed gears in there slipin. and on the 3.3 drive shafts i was going to go that way till i found out i had to replace the knuckles and a-arms just to run them.. because 3.3 shafts wont fit with stock a-arms correct ? and there is somethin with the knuckle having to be replaced to

There is times where it's very hard to spot ware on gears. It makes it easier to have a new gear set to compare old gears with.