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Even without the added brace, it didn't bend too much; just enough to be noticeable. If you have an aluminum welder, you could just add some more material there. I used nuts and bolts. :)
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Ok guys! I got it all pretty much done tonight besides the motor mount. The motor mount I will make of 16 gauge steel and will be mounted directly above the rear shocks. I will do that when the motor comes.
The Battery trays I made of AE Part No. 6334 "Battery Cups". They allow you do do any desired length on your chassis, and then strap at both ends, so I can use a 7 cell hump pack later if I wish to. I attatched those to cutout sheets of plastic, and finally attatched the plastic to the chassis however I could. I put weather stripping covering up the screws in the battery trays to help from the sharpness and stiffness of it hitting the packs. For the ESC, RX, and UBEC. I basically cut out plastic, heat it up, and bent it a few times over. This mounts above the front shocks on 3 screws. The ESC will be as shown in pics, RX in the front part, and the UBEC probably on the same plate as the esc, depending on how big it is. I am fairly confident in this setup, I just hope the plastic doesn't snap on any of the mounts. If it does, I may have to replace with lexan or some sort of metal. Please let me know what you think of what I have done here tonight. I haven't seen anything like it on the forums, so either it has a weakness I dont know about, or I am just too clever! :027: hahaha Anyway, onto the pics. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...n/DSCN1609.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...n/DSCN1612.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...n/DSCN1613.jpg |
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@redhatman: The only weakness I can see is that you might have some imbalance on the motor side because there is more weight there and the fact the batteries are so far out from the centerline. Also, will the body fit on there?
Other than that, I say "good job!". :) |
I'm going to buy a digital scale tomorrow and test each corner. I'll let you guys know what I find, one way or another. Here's my question, do you think I can get an acurate weight with a single scale moving it corner to corner, or should I get four identical scales?
Nice job Redhatman, but you are looking a little wide. Is this going to be another E-Revo Hummer? ;) |
Using 4 scales would be the best, but I would simply use 3 blocks of wood that are the same height as the scale and measure each corner that way.
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The battery block is on the right side. Here's what I found, it's slightly out of balance to the front right corner by 3.25 ounces (1.7% of total 11lbs 10ounces). The rear is off balance to the right side by .3 ounces (.16% of total 11lbs 10ounces).
LF 2lbs 4.74ounces ----------- RF 2lbs 8.01ounces LR 3lbs 6.8ounces ------------ RR 3lbs 7.1ounces Once I switch to lipo and basically cut my battery weight in half, it should be pretty close to perfectly balanced, or slightly heavy to the motor side. With the (14) IBs I can't tell any difference in flight, so I'm thinking that the lipo shouldn't change things either. |
That's good to hear, but I suspected as much. Even though the batteries are heavier, they sit closer to the center line of the chassis, which helps offset the relatively lighter motor, but that sits more outside the center line.
IIRC, you are using a 14 cell "brick" right? If so, a 4s1p Maxamps 10Ah pack is just about a perfect replacement size-wise if mounted on edge. The pack will be a bit taller (59x158x42) than the 14 cell brick (46x161x44), but the length and width are just about perfect. And the weight (813g) is very close to the same as 14 cells (910g). A 5s pack will be about 10mm wider and 100g heavier, but the voltage and runtime would be well worth it IMO. |
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