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Both mods here are excellent, I can't decide which one to choose... |
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Yes, heatsink grease everywhere and copper plates were attached to Quark's case with screws to prevent PCB motion inside enclosure, common problem with Quark's. |
Yeah, I would just smother on the thermal paste, then tighten the screws and wipe up the excess that is squeezed out when tightened.
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eMachineShop files,
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Zeropointbug: do you have dims for your clamp parts? Generally: Would there be any sense to separate the power section from the brain section? To my knowledge it needs only some extensions to wires. It may be easier to put compact heatsinks to both fet sides and take the brain section which does not heat to more "safe" place to avoid short circuit and hit. Longer wires in this case are not length sensitive, I suppose? Just a thought... |
I'm sure the length of the connecting pins DOES matter. Any time you are dealing with signal wires in close proximity to potentially "noisy" wires, you want to keep those low-level wires as short as possible.
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How can I get the pcbs out from aluminum case without braking something. Two plastic covers are removed now but the bottom pad is attached to aluminum case very tight and there is not much room for a screwdriver. Any hints, please?
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If you look at the pic below, you'll see that the PCB and case are seperated by a heat spreader. The PCB and case are attached to that heat spreader via a thermal sticky pad. You have to insert a thin screwdriver between the case and the heatspreader do NOT pry between the case and PCB!
http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/quark_mod.gif |
OK, thanks BrianG! I'm going to release it that way. Is there any advantage of heat or freeze when trying the screwdriver trick?
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Not sure, mine was at room temp when I did it.
Once the ESC guts are in your hand, you can slowly work off the heatspreader from the PCB. |
Case removed with success! Lower pad aswell. Thanks!!!
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Well, I was not sure which one would be easier to make. At the end two identical plates and two side panels complete the conversion. But you need to mill inside copper plate to clear electronics components on pcb. You can see that here. Also adding insulation tape was just to remind that you need to make sure that copper doesn't touch any electronics components.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> You do not really need finned heatsink for middle fet's, what you need is means to squeeze two pcbs's tight and get transient heat from fet's to pcb as quick as possible. Quark's pcb is very thin and cannot accomplish that task, so you need to add metal bracket. Aluminum is not as good as copper, but you can try to do the same thing with stock heatsink plates, just replace foam with grease and you should be half the way to success.<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> Overall, you asked for dimensions, I think I provided a little bit more. You can customize this drawing to your like and so...<o:p></o:p> |
I have a 50x60x8mm copper plate for under fets and 40x40x3mm for upper fets (from processor heatsinks) which will be attached with 4 screws after milling the larger plate to get them together and enough room for pcb/fets.
I'm happy with the under plate but wondering if the smaller one can transfer heat well enough to the other one due to quite a small common area 10x40mm. I don't have larger one, so I have to use this. Let's see if it's good... You gave me great info GriffinRU, BrianG and Zeropointbug. I wouldn't have even tried without them! |
Can i use 2 piece of 35v 1000uF?
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Welcome to the forums!
Yes, you can use as many caps as you want. However, make sure those 1000uf caps are low-ESR types. Just look for the 105*C temperature rating on them. If they are 85*C, they won't work. Also, the more capacitance you add, you are going to get a bigger arc wihen hooking the batteries up to the ESC. You can use a "no spark" mod if that bothers you (use the R/C Calc link in my sig, and then click the no spark link). |
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