Part number BSC022N03 from Infineon Technologies, you can get them from Digi-key.

lincpimp, any updates on 5s testing??

where do you send it to get that done?

PM griffinru and he can do the mods for you. He does excellent work, looks like factory.

I have not tried it on 5s yet. I am currently building a few different vehicles that will give me the chance to try it out. It worked well on 4s, so I am optimistic on 5s.

Someone help me out on this one...

I recieved my Mamba Max today and besides having to dremel cut a screwdriver slot in a case screw because the head was stripped from the factory, I was satisfied.

Now I bought 3 35V 330 micro farad caps, a 1800 micro farad cap, 1 zener diode as linked to in that one post from digi-key. I also bought a small sheet of brass, artic alum thermal compound and epoxy, all added up quickly! I was planning on doing the stage one mod outlined in another post myself since I'm fairly good with building circuits.

-Now the stock MM has 3 330 25V caps, will I gain anything by switching to the 35V caps?

-Is it worth cracking it open to replace to diode or do all of the greasing and backing with brass?

-Also, are the stock motor leads (13 AWG) fine with the Feigao and the stock connectors as well?

-I was checking out that wiring diagram link n the forum, is it best to tap the UBEC off of the ESC or battery connector(ESC side of course). Next, it shows an optional 1000 micro farad cap in the 3rd channel of the rx, I'm running a CC UBEC, is that needed? I don't see how though, also my transponder goes there.

I am running this in a truggy on 4s with a Feigao 9XL, the only reason I was planning on doing this was to keep temps low on 15 minute mains. My whole goal with the mod was to keep temps LOW. I am going to run dual novak fans I bought as well (they look cool to which is always a plus).

Thanks!

The 35v caps are to help it run 6S, also I've noticed they do not heat up like the 25v ones, even on 3S.

I'd tap the ubec on the ESC, connector to the battery. This is a more stable voltage since the cap on the power supply at the esc keeps the spikes close to the esc (versus tapping it at the same place as the cap).

There is no original diode on the back of the power board. It's an add on to stop voltage spikes. I would recomend doing the brass on the back side, any additional cooling couldn't be a bad thing.

Extra cap in the reciever is not necessary if you are running 2.4ghz radio but you could always make a jumper for 3rd channel with the cap in it to keep a supply for the transponder if you want.

The "whole" mod will help with temps.

Or you could go overboard like me and put heatsinks on both sides of the power board with pusher/puller fans ;) You just have to put longer buss leads from one board to the other. I also put some scrap aluminum on the usb side of the brain board to cool the fet drivers and the bec the esc still uses to power itself.

Good luck, my best advice is to remove all the plastic wires and preheat the boards in the oven at 250* before attempting to solder or desolder.

hey DR. did you do the modding yourself? have you did any testing with higher voltage?lmk
phil

Thanks for the info, I have seen the cap tapped on the esc, should I extend a set of wire off of the esc for the 1800 cap? So that would make three sets of wires on the (+) (-) taps on the esc(1800 cap, UBEC, Battery)? Or should I tap the 1800 cap in just before the ESC off of the battery leads?

-Any pics of adding that diode install?

Thanks!

I am guessing that you are trying to perform griffinru's stage 1 mod. If so the need for fans may not be necessary. I ran my 1/8 buggy with a feigal 7xl, geared for 40mph, and a 10000mah 4s lipo (=very heavy) with a modded mm and a regular mm. The unmodded mm did need a fan and temps were still a little on the high side. With the modded mm I did not need the fan and the overall performance was much better. Since you are running a truggy, the added tire weight will put more strain on the motor and cause more heat at the motor, that may be of more concern than the esc, however the hotter motor will cause the esc to heat up due to higher current draw for wasted power production (heat).

Like what was said, a little more voltage headroom. You should size a cap to have at least 25% more voltage than what you plan to use. Can't forget that the back-EMF pulses will be higher than the battery voltage too. The only thing you lose with larger voltage caps (assuming you keep the same capacitance) is physical room.

Larger wire is always better for less v-drop at high current (less resistance). If you are gonna be pulling higher currents, either direct-solder the wires, or use larger connectors for the same reason.

Not sure it makes much difference since they are the same point electrically. Maybe a little less noise if tapped closer to the battery, but think the difference is negligible IMO.

The 1000uF cap is there to help smoothen out any UBEC switching noise from entering on the power line and to help with the current bursts the servos can pull. Helps to make for a more constant current flow.

I personally HATE fans, especially if you are counting on them to keep things cool. They can break, get dirty (which wears the bearings), and just adds wiring complexity. I also hate temps over 130*F, so I always simply add a little more heatsinking, but if gearing is optimal, there shouldn't be excessive heat.

Thanks for all of the help, does anyone have pics or info of where to put that Zener Diode? I should probably wait to ask until I open the MM, but I wanted to be prepared for when I do.

Have you seen my posts?

I have, they are actually the mamba max mods and tweaks and the making an esc better thread is in my favorites. I probably not seeing something on the post. I will try and reread, but if anyone has a link to it or knows where it is at, let me know. Thanks!

:)
No problem
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=110929

I start working on English version in my Russian forum blog. Should be under "Making an esc better (ESC Mods) English" on the right...

NICE! Thats what i thought. THANKS!