I bought 2 6 spyder diff kits from bnighs on UE forum. These are the same diffs as in the UE Ultralights (no cases) except the output shafts are stock 7.5. Ben supplied the correct UE diff output shafts, 8mm pinion drive cup and a set of shims as well. I finished shimming the front bulk last week - it took .022 total in shims on the carrier to zero the side to side play and .016 on the pinion (between the pinion and 1st bearing) to set mesh right. If you'll read UE's write up for shimming the Ultralights - its pretty much same kind of thing and all the pics help understand what needs to be done.

You take the freeplay out of the pinion by how you tighten the pinion drive cup. Take the hybrid side that will hold the ring gear face up and place the shimmed pinion with brgs in it. I took a knife blade and placed it between the cup and pinion and applied ever so little pressure to the pinion and then put the drive cup on and tightened the set screw while holdingthis pressure - this removes all the play and will not let the pinion hit the cup. If you just push the drive cup onto the pinion shaft, you'll wind up with play. The pinion should not move in and out when you're finished.

I ran into a prob with the rear hybrid - it would not hold the pinion brgs - it was made with too much clearance. But FLM stood behind it and my replacement should be mailed tomorrow so hopefully, I can finish the rear diff and install these and the cvds this week.

I don't know what the HB diffs need shim wise, but I'd be surprised if they needed no shimming.

The HB diffs do require shimming. Mine only needed the shims on the pinion, as the diff fit with no side to side play. I think I used 3 of these shims on each pinion:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGPC9&P=7

Thanks everbody!! Got it!

Thanks I'll order a set.

Thanks for the link Linc :lol:

I was searching everywhere for these.

I got my Hybrids in the mail yesterday, and all I had to shim was the pinion, I had to put a shim between the inner bearing and the gear, and also one between the cup and outer bearing,

Mine only need pinion shims also. You "gotta luv it".

I guess its pretty obvious what diff FLM used when they designed their hybrids. At least I was able to use the Kyosho based 7.5 diffs which I already had.

I got a little problem. My case are too tight. The bind with no shims. I have tried putting the internals in the other case but the problem persists. Is it possible to grind the case so that the bearing will sit a little deeper? Is there a head for the Dremel that fit that bearing hole?

I had the very same problem with mine.

I took out the gasket between the diffcase and the ringgear and use loctite silicone gasket. (it gives you a good .5mm more clearance.)

Thanks Rene.

I'll try it that is about all I need.

Mark

Arrrgghh!!!!!!!!
 

I have been trying to get these thing shimmed for days! #@/!* I can't seem to get them. One works perfect. The other one though is a real pain.:diablo:

Renée, I tried your suggestion however now the pinion is binding. Does anyone have suggestions for me? Out of desperation last night I sent Mike an e-mail asking if he would put them together for me. Do I feel I like a noob.:oops:

Mark

This may sound dumb, but have you removed the bearing on the ring gear side and check to make sure some dirt, etc is not making it stand away from the ring gear? Or maybe swap the bearings side to side and see of that helps. If your ring and pinion are binding it means that something is pushing the diff over towards the pinion. Are you using hb diffs?

Yep, i am using Hb diffs with hybrid bulks. To remove the bearing, I have to open the case and slide out the pin underneath the gear corret?

Yeah, the cross pin holds the diff output in place. I an suprised that you are having problems, my hb diffs went in perfectly, but I did have to shim the pinion as it was not deep enough into the case and was not meshing completely with the ring gear. Are your diffs new or used, and are they the truggy or buggy diffs? I have buggy diffs in mine. The only difference is the ring gear, the cups, internals, etc. are the same. The only reason I ask is there must be something behind that bearing, or maybe the diff case is not machined correctly. Have you had a good look at the case where the bearing sits?