Birds-eye view - Motor/ESC/Battery area...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...Mounted/19.jpg

Diagonal/Side - Looking towards the front of the truck... You can see the spacers i have used to raise the motor up a little like a few others users here have done, in order to create a little more room for the batteries... I can't remember, but they're just the spacers included with either the Shock towers (spacers to mount Savage Shocks) or they came with the FLM LST Shock Conversion Kit... pretty sure it's from the shock towers, but i cant be certain...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...Mounted/20.jpg

Side view
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...Mounted/21.jpg

Diagonal/Side - Looking towards the rear of the truck...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...Mounted/22.jpg

Diagonal/Side - Looking towards the rear of the truck... Just a little higher than previous shot...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...Mounted/23.jpg

Ants-eye view? Just to show overhang over edge of chassis...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...Mounted/24.jpg

Jeebus! Can you say bling? I've gotta either put my sunglasses on or turn down my monitor brightness! :smile:

Looks pretty! I don't know if I'd drive something that nice and shiny!

I've given up on trying to screw with the camera settings - the flash is just too much most of the time, and the lighting in the room i have my little bench in isn't so crash hot - although the red towel wouldn't be helping much either hehehe - i dont know how, but i always tend to do things to the fullest (even though it takes a while to get there -lol-)

Thanks for the comment mate, but i might just quote myself, just in case it got lost somewhere -lol-

No point building it, if i aint gonna use it! :mdr:

***EDIT***
Just found some pics i remembered i uploaded of the place near my joint i'm talking about =)
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/b...h%20Spots/

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...raBMXRun01.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...raBMXRun10.jpg

Nice truck:smile:

That terrain there is awesome, wanna have that here:yes:

That motor, isn't he too much powerfull?? I think the gears will be stripped in a second:lol:

Greetz,
Joram

Damn!

That is one crazy savage!

I cant wait to see a vid, a 2230! Whooo man that thing will have some power!

dan that toe in your wheels shouldnt change no matter the position of the a arms. You have your toe links on top of the hub i seen in the picture. Try switching them tho the bottom and when you move the arm up and down the toe will NOT change.

ur such a champ man - I asked some questions about this on another forum and was told it was normal? -lol- Originally i thought it had something to do with the length of the TBs, as i had trouble fitting the FLM TBs they supplied with the arms, so i used the Lunsford TBs with the yellow GPM TB Ends, as they're a bit longer than the Lunsford ones i have...

Thanks for the heads up man, I seriously needed that tip hey! -lol- =) I'll get onto it this arvo, and update with results - thank you so much man! :party:

Does your Savage turn both was the same. I am having trouble with mine it turns great one way the other way it turn a lot wider

hahaa - sorry mate, i cant actually answer that one till i get hold of some lipos and an ESC -lol- (Which btw will be an MGM 160-25 Z-Series and PolyRC 6000 MAh 6S 22.2volt 25C packs from the extreme series)

Could it be something to do with your servo arm position or travel possibly? Or maybe it's binding up somewhere? I cant tell for sure - but they appear to turn left/right equally, although i have no real way to tell untill i'm able to driv it - sorry mate.

But i did swap all the links out to the BOTTOM of the hub, and i still cant figure out how or why it happens... like - why the wheels turn left/right with up/down arm movement simply because of such a small placement issue!?!? I was looking at it last night, and STILL couldn't figure it out -lol- Anyways - thanks again bl-is-future - bloody lifesaver hehehe

You need to raise your radioplate!!!

I had the same problem with alloy steering and i raised it with a spacer and now it works both sides good:)

Greetz,
Joram

what is the radio plate

The plate that your steering servo is mounted to - you have the FLM conversion, yes? =)


I'm having a couple problems trying to fit my Integy Piggyback LST shocks without them hitting the side of the chassis when they're fully extended?? I'm not actually able to get full travel out of em, or mount them successfully in ANY other position than what it is at, on both the arm AND the shock tower... and i've played with it for hours trying every combination i could...

I have used the included spacers for the TVPs, as i need the room for the lipos i'll be running...

Here's some pics - kinda small, but you can see my dillema... If the shock towers were wider, i could mount them further to the outside of the truck, and use the outer hole in the lower extended arm...

This is the side i'm having problems with - it has the spacers installed this side...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...gybacks/05.jpg

Not alot of clearance this side either - only JUST scrapes in, and even then, the spring can rub on the tvp sometimes when it's 'spun' the right way...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...gybacks/06.jpg

And 2 more, hopefully to try and give you a decent shot...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...gybacks/07.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...gybacks/08.jpg

I'm hoping there is something obvious i am missing here, orrrr? Any suggestions? Didn't get round to reading that article on suspension tuning yet, so forgive me if i'm missing anything obvious -lol- cheers =)

dan there is really no way to get past that rub with the tvp spacers installed and them lst shocks. The shocks are just too damn big. You could try to move the top mount of the shocks but looking at the pics it is as far out as it gets. if all else fails put a piece of foam where it rubs and jsut replace the foam when it wears out.

saydee - yes check for any binding by moving the wheels to each side with your hands. Make sure the radio is off so you dont screw up your servo. If you can move it all the way than loosen the two screw that hold the entire try that the servo is on up a tad and try that.

there is no binding and I have the spacer in I turns wider one way than the other

I just can't figure this out

I'm not worried enough to use foam - a few cosmetic scratches doesn't bother me at all, i'm more worried that the possibility is there for it to 'catch' and not drop the arm the same length as the right one whilst in the air, possibly causing balance issues... this is just what i assume anyway -lol-

When it is on the ground, it's not really an issue - it's just being in the air when the shocks try to extend the whole way, the left shock stops the arm from moving just that bit further down, leaving the left and right wheels/arms at different heights i f you get what i'm trying to say... this is clearly all in theory mind you - my theory also, so that doesn't count for too much -lol-

would be nice if the shock towers were a bit wider... just where the red line is that i have marked in this picture... that would solve my problem completely =)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...gybacks/09.jpg

I wonder if anyone from FLM is reading this?? gives me a thought - i posted on their (rather quiet) forum, so maybe i should linky to this thread hehehe =D

well I got it I tighten this down and it turn (the spring)
greathttp://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...dee1800/15.jpg

danhfvcsd,

Any updates?

Greetz,
Joram

Not as much bling but could go back to X stock towers and Innovatives mounts, what im using. After getting everything installed I noticed the lst shocks gave some serious down travel little more then I liked after seeing the dogbones almost rubbing and possible could pop out so maybe put some spacers in the shocks to limit them a bit, I used the rubber stops on the stock shocks. Also I see your on the 6th hole on those arms and I see a 7th can you mount to there maybe? Just some ideas but I have no clue with the aluminum stuff, never would invest in metal arms and towers I have seen many bent and for a hard bashers the stock ones are more then adequite and dont break.

Unfortunately not Joram! =( Still have batts and esc to go... xmas really kicked my arse, and the mortgage and conversion rate is still not helping matters -lol- I'm currently going through alot of my gear/crap round home and gonna sell off some stuff i dont use to help out a little tho - it's hard to decide what to part with tho, cause i tend to not keep things i dont use anyway! -lol-
I will definately update as soon as they come through tho =)

Savage03 - all the FLM gear has the extreme abuse warranty, so i'm not too concerned about it, plus i haven't heard too much go wrong with their product...
My shocks are looking to be ok - the dogbones dont look like coming close to popping... I cant mount the shocks in ANY other position tho - trust me - i have tried EVERY combination on the shock towers and arms possible, but the shocks are too big, and get in the way of everything -lol- If the FLM towers were wider by another row of holes, it'd be fine and would have lots more adjustability...

Well, same here.

I haven't updated too since a long time, i was very busy with my pc. Upgraded it to a hard core gamepc:whip:

I'm gonna buy the CC 2200kv combo in a few weeks, so finally some updates are coming!

I have too decided to buy the FLM bulkheads and shocktowers:yipi:

But fit the shocks good without the flm arms? Are it the arms what make the trouble or especially the shocktowers???

Greetz,
Joram

I think it's more a combination of the shock towers and shocks together that gave me problems...
If the shocks weren't so fat, they'd be ok - but at the same time, if the shock towers were another row of holes wider, then it'd be ok too hehehe

It's mainly the shock tower that got me i think - as it sits, i can only manage to find only one, yes that's right - only ONE mounting position for the lst piggyback shocks out of all of the holes in the shock towers and arms combined!! -lol-

I think the fact i have used the spacers inside the TVPs for extra battery width that has upset it aswell - the shock on the battery side in the rear is just hitting the TVPs at full extension, and the other one just clears it... (can be seen in previous page in pictures)
If the shock towers were wider by one row of holes on each side, then i would be able to mount the shocks out further, bringing the shock body away from the TVP further giving better clearance, and it would also allow me to go further out on the arms if i wanted aswell...

Apart from having to take the whole assembly off the truck to open it, i think the hybridf bulks should be a strong and worthy piece of kit, and the shock towers (aside from the shock problems i'm having) i would be surprised if they were to break in a hurry - they lock onto the bulks very tight and solid, and are quite bulky, so i'm hoping my instincts are right about em -lol-

hey, it was crossing my mind to get the 2200CC combo too, as the price for the mgm16025 i want, is almost the same as the combo! Have almost been thinking of getting that and saving a while again for the mgm - but then i cant run my 2230.... or can i?... then i'd have a spare motor hehehe

I've never been able to get the hang of games on pc... always gone to the consoles like PS and wii -lol- But the graphics and gameplay has always been much better on pc...

well, ive bougt these today:

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...-12000&cat=109

It was the last set, after i bought it, it was out of stock:)

Greetz,
Joram

dayum! expensive taste! hehehe I always wanted them, until the FLM extended arms came out... - i like the idea of having a rig that looks big - compensation for something maybe? hehehe

i knew someone was thinking it, so i said it for ya -lol-

Yeah well, i love the titanium stuff, check out my topic with the update!

Greetz,
Joram

ok - been a long time between update, but finally have one... it's small, and consists of only a few words, but it is an update none-the-less hehehe

I have just ordered an MGM 16025 Z-series controller from Mike, although unfortunately he only has the original DUO on his site, so i went (out on a limb) to BPP and got the DUOII (i don't see anything to worry about there -lol- Still would like to have bought it from Mike, but wanted to get it all done and ordered asap)

So, all i have now are batteries to go... Polyquest 6S 6000mah packs @ USD$240 a pop, they will be a few weeks away yet -lol-

Cheers,

Daniel

Got my charger (Hyperion DUOII) and speedy (MGM 16025 Z-series) today =) Cant use the charger yet, as i sold my old power supply to get the new one which is still on its way...

I didn't like the way they wanted me to mount the ESC, so i made my own way - anyways, enjoy some new pictures finally! =)

Here i have used double sided tape and some foam to help keep the speedy in place a tad firmer...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC01.jpg

Here's the same view with the ESC installed...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC02.jpg

Side shot - you can see how it is mounted here, sorta, with the silver button head screw.. screwed into where the fan usually is screwed...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC03.jpg

Angle shot - here you can see how i mounted the switch... i just used one of the micro servo mounts, and bent the tab a smidge...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC04.jpg

Angle birds-eye from the side...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC05.jpg

Top Birds-eye... SLIGHTLY less width than the motor... no clearance issues here =)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC06.jpg

Just batteries to go!! w00t w00t!!

Well - all the wiring is pretty much done... i just have to add 'power' plugs to the esc, and also the batteries when they get here... oh - and i have to get the rx wire mounted =)

Didn't end up covering the wires like i wanted to - but they are placed well enough now that i don't need to worry too much about hiding them =)

Overview...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ompleted01.jpg

Up front - i shortened just about all of the wires with new servo connectors instead of soldering anything... sorry bout the flash - photography skills lacking =)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ompleted02.jpg

These plugs are double sided taped to the tranny case...
*the upper goes from ESC to BEC...
*the lower goes from BEC to Battery output wires on ESC...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ompleted03.jpg

Everything then runs under the motor...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ompleted04.jpg

...and then under the esc and as hard as i tried not to - i had to use one zip tie here hehehe...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ompleted05.jpg

Wiring in the rear is pretty much non-existant from above with the exception of the motor and power wires =)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...ompleted06.jpg

c'moooonnn aussie dollar, rise baby riiiiseee!!!!!! :D

I forgot about the battery stop... it's kinda on the large side - but it will save my packs, and that's all that matters - at least it matches the chassis? -lmao-

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...teryStop01.jpg

I used only 3 parts of the FLM chassis kit...
*the ESC Mount
*one of the small alum blocks that you would usually mount the esc mount with
*and i also used the standard 36mm dia. motor support...
It can also be adjusted to suit whatever size battery you have just about - so it'll keep a nice tight fit with any pack =)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...teryStop02.jpg

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...teryStop03.jpg

Looks killer man...

Cheers mate =)

I'm just waiting on a response from a seller on ebay, and am gonna get some cheaper 5S lipos so i can just get it going - it's been sitting WAYYYYY too long... Everytime i get my money saved - something else comes along, and i end up throwing it to that - so i figure i'll throw it on some cheap 5S packs, and see how i go - for AUD$40 per pack, it's certainly gonna be a massive saving, both time and money-wise!!

I've just bought me an rc heli cause it was so cheap (SEE!! that's the ki nd of aside-tracking i get!! -lol-) so, my impatience is growing on 2 projects now, not just the one -lmao-

how do you post such big pics??

i'm not sure mate -lol-

I have resized them to 800x600, and uploaded em straight to photobucket - i just copy and paste the address? =)

thanks

any new progress on this conversion? i am curious to see how well the drivetrain will hold up.

sorry fellas - been very lazy with updates, and i have actually put this one on hold for a short time due to unfortunate personal circumstances...

I have tested it on 18nimh cells, and it was pretty decent with all that weight - cant wait till i get the lipos...

The drivetrain was strong as i could have hoped, with a few WOT stand-still starts on grass and loose dirt, it held up very well, and lifted the front with ease on the grass... Hard braking at WOT also caused no ill effects...

I really do need some longer turnbuckles for this aswell while it's on my mind... i was forced to run with massive toe-out due to the turnbuckles being too short - the lunsford buckles i have are actually longer than the supplied FLM pieces, but they are still too short...

thats about it for now... hopefully things will work out ok, and i'll have this finished in the next few months... looking at taking over the business where i work, so hopefully if it all works to plan, my wages will significantly increase which will also help get it done quicker hehehe =)

found your thread in a search NICE truck man. I was wondering about the FLM hybrid bulks do they work? I was reading they needed to shim the diff cups or something to accept XL drive bones?

Hi man, thanks =)

The bulks hold up very well, and keep things very solid...
I can't be certain, and correct me if i'm wrong please, but i think i read once that the xl bones are larger at the dogbone end (and may even be slightly longer?), which means they have larger inputs at the diff cup/axles??

I'm not sure if there are any problems installing them on the FLM bulks, as to be honest, i havent really been keeping up to date with everything of late, and forget most of what i used to know -lol-

I can remember seeing a few users here with the flm bulks as well, so maybe they have used the xl bones? I just have the stock sav21 bones in at the moment - they're not real pretty, and sorta starting to rust, but holding up fine =)

You need to modify the bulks for XL cups. It can be done, just make the hole a bit bigger.

ps: long time ago that i posted something heren:lol:

Greetz,
Joram

OMG alrirght at least its fixalbe bcause after I bought them it said that the XL drive cups wont fit due to size. So I have to make the output holes on the bulks bigger? any suggestions in size drill bit?