Wow that thing is awesome!!!
cant wait to see the body done


Top notch :smile:

Sweet, nice job Travis...

Thanks guys! :party:

nice work:yes: how does it hold up when you jump it? and whats your MAP:mdr:

:surprised:I vote this for project of the year!

It only got a little air last night, didn't want to push it hard with a crappy suspension setup on its maiden voyage :whistle:. But the rear was bouncing a lot causing it to roll. Thinner shock oil will fix that.
Find a machinist and I'll sell you the design at MAP :lol:.

Excellent!

I think we should be serious about this project of the year thing. If someone makes a thread and then everyone can enter their projects that they finished this year. We vote for top ten. Anyone like/dislike the idea?

Sounds good to me.

Thats some amazing work you've done Travis. I am curious how it will compare to a Slash... Do you plan on racing it at OCRC in the Slash class? Looking forward to seeing it in person soon. :yes:

I'm sure OCRC wouldn't let me race it in stock Slash class. It would hand stock Slash's their asses... This could go in the mod Slash class, though, which is more of a run-what-you-brung type class from what I have been told.

Outstanding work Sir.. As always..

Love the daul Fans.. that just too cool Travis..

Great Job..

Me too.

Awesome work man!

wow this is cool. I really like the design, seems like it would handle real good. your efforts in this project has shown. GREAT JOB

Hands down though Shaun wins with the battletruck...

In a head-to-head battle, he would definitely win because I would default :gasp:.

Today I will design/install a chassis-mounted rear sway bar which will help handling even more - should drastically reduce chassis torque twist, greatly improve cornering, and best of all will reduce body roll. The mounting of it will be similar to how many real trucks do it.

I appreciate all the comments, guys! :angel:

I posted a project of the year thread. If you want to enter your truck MM just tell me or post on the thread - http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...857#post237857

If anyone else want to enter their project they can too.

Whoa...that looks amazing! Your chassis design is a work of art, and you've really nailed the scale aspect. The detail you've put into the mechanics, too...man. I love builds like this! the functional fans in the bodyshell are a great touch. I just can't wait to see it once you've taken the polycarb's protective film off; it's gonna gleam.:surprised:

Stunning work, and an example of a true custom build.:party:

Man, it's been a while since I've checked up on this thread! That is way cool. Although, I wouldn't want to drive it! It would be sitting pretty on a hutch of some kind with multicolored LEDs that shift colors shining through various points to really showcase that polycarb!

I had not looked at this in a while. You have built one heck of a machine there! I hate voting for the battle truck, but I think for the contest it wins on the originality factor. this is after all just another corr truck conversion. An amazing very ingenious corr tuck conversion though!

TBH I don't think the word conversion is very fitting. Conversion is the word we use for turning nitro into electric, turning a buggy into a truggy, etc. This truck was not anything to begin with (albeit the front end was from a MT2 and the rear axle was from a Wheely King). Besides, if it were just another Corr truck conversion, then why is it that that there are 10+ Corr truck conversions (buggies) on RC-M, but only two totally custom trucks with this IFS/4-link-solid rear axle setup? I wish building this truck were as simple and non-time consuming as a conversion, I could have gotten a lot more sleep :lol: But thanks for the comments.

I do agree with Travis, my E-Slayer is considered a conversion since I used an existing platform of E-Revo to convert it to a CORR type truck. This one is totally new and I just wish Travis will consider mass production :whistle: so a new standard will be set for CORR truck (RC) or maybe some manufacturer buys this design and give it a go on the market...just my 2 cents....BTW, I like Shawn's truck too :yes:

Travis, wheres the video?? :yipi: just kidding I know school and work is keeping you busy...hope to see vids soon :party:

It's gonna be over a week before this truck can do anything major on film... The rest of this week is pretty busy for me, then next week is finals. At least I'm done by 10am on Thursday (11th)! Then I can head over to the track at about 3pm when it opens.

Quick update: Got the body painted up, and have found some weak-er things with the lower links causing screws to bend (albeit not high strength steel). So I will have to ditch the nice-looking aluminum rod ends on the lower links and go to plastic to allow the links to flex more, and will have to work on the spacing between the links where they are triangulated.

Thinner weight oil (35) in the rear shocks definitely helps, but GS shocks SUCK. No wonder they were Red Tag... So that means this truck is getting some Ofna Super shocks up front that WON'T leak. That will make the handling a lot more predictable.

A rear sway bar is in the very near future as well. On-power steering will benefit greatly from it.

Just and outstanding JOB Sir all the way around.. :yes:

Now where is the Video?? :whistle: or better yet when are you going to the track next :neutral: I'll bring my slash :wink:

I guess I posted right before you did, as the answers are above your post :angel:.

Sorry I missed that!..

Wow... :surprised: :yipi:

ok you win, poor choice of words on my part that detract from the amazing work you have done. this is a very close #2 for me for best build of the year.

After some parking lot/street testing I have found the KMS 2826-06 to be quite inadequate, even with an Axi fan mounted to the back. Under normal usage the motor would run about 170 deg. F and cog quite a lot. In the last (and final, for this motor) outing I noticed the truck seemed to be slowing down, and I knew the batteries were far from cutting off. It was almost like the motor was going "soft".

Maybe 15sec. later the motor decided enough was enough and put out quite a nice puff of white smoke. I continued to provoke it, and it rewarded me with some more smoke and even a light show from inside the motor! This was quite a sight and I felt compelled to continue feeding it so my co-workers would get a chance to witness this spectacular sight.

As you can imagine, that motor is done for. That is the last time I will purchase a KMS motor for an application where some performance is desired (this same size/wind of motor works terrifically in my crawler). This has led me down an somewhat interesting path - the path of motor choices.

I was contemplating a typical inrunner (Medusa 36-50-xxxx) and a spur/pinion gear reduction with slipper clutch, and making the mounts to go with that, but was unable to come up with an adequate design which would allow minimum driveshaft angles (vertically and horizontally) as well as a more centered motor position.

Then I came back to the original plan of direct-drive-to-diff with an outrunner and set out to find a similar sized motor to the KMS 2826 but with more power and a reasonable price tag. The Scorpion motors seem like an excellent option:
http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...products_id=83
http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...roducts_id=391
If only their HK3026 came in a kv in the low 700s, then it would be perfect.
That 3032 is not only longer than the 2826 I was using, but also larger in diameter. I think it should run much cooler due to the size and better quality. If you guys think this is a good option, or can point out something else, I would like to hear about it.

Whew, long post! Anybody who has read this far deserves a cookie!

holy dirt! there has been alot of development on this little baby! IM LOVING IT!

I like oatmeal please.. :wink: again Travis just a outstanding build, :yes: you raise the bar for all every time you post!... :diablo:

Glad you guys like it!

I did order the Scorpion 3032-12 yesterday, should be here soon.

Lately I've been reading up on building/winding motors (what sikeston ended up doing for his direct-drive-to-diff Revo conversion). I will probably end up either rewinding the motor that is on its way, or get a kit version of the same motor and wind that. By having my own winds I can pack more copper onto the stator than the factory does, which in most cases means a better/cooler performing motor.

For now I have 2 Hobby City HXT DIY outrunner kits (12pole stators just like the Scorpion 30 series) and I will wind them DLRK (14 magnetic poles), but not sure if wye or delta will be chosen (I can choose after each slot has been wound).

hmm looking at the pictures i have ONE recommendation... if im allowed:lol:

The lower links at the chassis looks like its gonna take BUNCHS of force. I think the lateral stresses on that will transfer to the Chassis plates and ultimately fatigue the plates. I think even a ziptie to hold it straight would help!

just a thought

You're right, the forces at the chassis from the lower link are huge. The lower links do carry the majority of the load from the rear axle.
I will be honest and admit that this design I came up with for mount the lower links is far from the best option. Basically the ends of the two lower links have a long set screw running through them and the two threaded posts on the sides of the links are tightened against each other to put tension in the screw. The screw in the pictures actually bent, and since then I have removed most of the spacing between the link ends so that there is more support. Also, the aluminum link ends shown in the pics were replaced with some Jato rod ends. This will provide more flex in the lower links, which is good (especially since the links are steel and won't flex much at all).

As for fatigue on the chassis plates, TBH I think this is a non-issue. One of my concerns from the get-go was the potential for poor integration between chassis components - this sort of project has not been attempted by many, and thus there isn't much information on what works and what doesn't. So for this reason (among many) I chose polycarbonate to be the chassis material. As I'm sure you are aware it is highly flexible depending on the thickness, and in this case the vertical chassis plates provide adequate flex to nearly eliminate fatigue.

But I do need to work on better lower link mounting... ideas are much appreciated :yes:.

Something nice came in the mail yesterday!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7979.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7983.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7988.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7990.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7993.jpg

And here is the carnage from the KMS:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7995.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8000.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8001.jpg

And some comparisons:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8014.jpg

On that last picture, note the large silver ring at the "business" end of the Scorpion motor. That's a ball bearing! It sits inside the spinning part of the motor and provides extra support.

Fubar...

New motor looks very beasty, should give that truck plenty of grunt.

Scorpion motors are amazing! Super super nice motors, well known in the heli/plane world

AWESOME build! I love it!

I like the bearing supported can. From what I have heard the scorpion motors are really nice... I have had good success with axi motors, but may have to try the scorpion out too!

Last night I was trying to get the motor shaft out of the rear endbell, which is a super tight fit (a lot tighter than the KMS motor). The rear endbell popped off rather easily when I hit the other end of the motor shaft. This was rather fortunate because it allowed me to extract the motor shaft from the endbell with less overall effort. Now it is time to carve the motor shaft into a desirable shape.

ok, sorry for being such a noob but......

why can you direct drive a outrunner but not a inrunner? Wouldnt the motor be significantly over stressed? Why did you choose an outrunner over the inrunner....


again... i apologize in advance

Don't apologize, we're all here for a good reason! And that reason is to receive comments, ask questions, show off, etc.

In this application outrunners are easy to use because their shafts are removable, and thus easy to modify. We need to somehow get driveshafts or drivecups onto the ends of the motor, and traditional inrunners have the shaft exiting only one side of the motor. That means inrunners require some sort of (reduction) unit that can send power to the front and rear. This unit adds weight and complexity and reduces available space.

If I were to ask a company like Medusa or Neu to build me a custom inrunner with a kv of about 750 and a shaft with appropriate connections on both ends of the motor I would have to dish out a lot more cash than I can afford. Also keep in mind that these motors are 4pole, so compared to 12pole outrunners they might provide less back-emf at startup , potentially making them more prone to severe cogging. Outrunners are much more friendly to user-rewinding as well, so I can always use heavier gauge wire and have a higher total copper fill than what factories put on their outrunners (to make them handle more power).

The KMS was definitely overstressed, as is evident in the pictures. A comparably sized inrunner to that KMS would weigh about twice as much, meaning it would have more copper and a higher current capacity. This Scorpion motor I got is nearly 100grams heavier than the KMS, and has A LOT more copper and is also better built. Hopefully it won't be too heavily stressed.