Slim, how did you weld your ESC and motor wires togheter?
If i take a close look on the shrink wrap, it is like if you have just touch the tips of the esc wire to the tips of the motor wire and melt the solder togheter:oh:
Me when i weld this wire togheter, i put lot of solder on the motor wire and lot of solder too on the esc wire and i place them one ON the other, squiz it with a pair of long nose pliers and melt the solder togheter.

Is your joint is solid????

both ends tinned, a little extra in the middle, solid as can be. i will admit it looks weird but its always worked great for me. not really much stress on the joint itself and good solder joints dont just "break". the wires arent so much dependent on "touch" to conduct, that is what the solder is for, tinning the wire is like a conductive "cap" for them. when they are soldered together the solder solidifies and joins the two both physically and conductivly (new word)

nice to read another mmmv3 going strong:yes:and like a said i other post no choice to open the case for remove the fan wire for prevent the pinch...

Had a short run with no smoke or fire but broke the bell crank......

well if the thing continue to going good like that for the mmmv3 a lot of parts will be broken soon:lol::whip:

Nice job with the wires on the MMM

Have any of you installed a capacitor on the V3's?

Tell me about it. I think we went through like $8K worth of parts and cars wringing out the V3. (Including completely destroying 2 customer cars... and replacing the whole setup...) :whistle:

Do you need a better driver (ouch) or maybe a larger area to play/test?

I think we need less power -- our test motor for high power testing was a Neu 1521/1D -- on 6S. :oh: NEVER TRY THAT AT HOME. I'M SERIOUS. :whip:

We broke so many transmission and gearing parts -- seems every run we would get 2-3 passes and then something in the drive train would fail.

why dont you just build a go-kart, put 2 MMM and 2 2215 on 6s4p lipo :gasp:

Any videos? It would be really nice to see a 1521 on 6S :intello:.

By the way, any thoughts on installing a pair of capacitors on the V3?

I ran my MMMv3 in my new MBX-6 this past Sunday with a 1512/2.D/F and a 5000mah 25c Polyquest.

It ran great for three 6 minute qualifiers and a 20 minute main.

That's the most I've gotten out of an MMM since it came out. And I've been through 6 of them.

This may be the one fellas.

It felt smooth and it stayed together. That's all I can ask of it. :mdr:

nice:yes:now its seems that the v3 old on for the first 40minutes un runtime...let see at long term use:whip:

so am i right that we should just use the internal bec and dont do any mods to the v3?

now for the v3 the bec problem seem to be fixed....and no mod needed:yes:just open the case to look if the fan wire isn't pinched...

I know have 5+ hours on my V1 since updating to 1.20 firmware and removing the EXT BEC and is still going as strong as ever and doesn't look like stopping

Ahh, I see. Figured that crashes were causing the damage. A 2900kv motor on 6s sounds like fun. What vehicles were you using? I plan to use a 1521 1y on 6s in an erevo.... I doubt I will be as harsh as you guys due to the fact I am not trying to test the motor limits! But I am sure that you can tell me if the erevo will hold up?

Thanks for fixing the MMM Patrick, best esc out there.

NO:oh: it'lll not hold up.....never:whip:

+1, I annihilated a diff with a 1515 1.5D on 4s :diablo: so a 1521 is out of the question. I'd go with a 1515 1.5Y on 6s maximum (the E-Revo diffs are supposed to be tougher than the ones I had, hopefully that's true). The Tranny is pretty tough, but the bottom gear is plastic and a 1521 could very possibly destroy that gear.

I put more the an hour & a half of track time on the V3 today. Worked perfectly. Fan was on a couple of times when I came in but went off usually before I could get the body off. Looking good so far.:great:

Todays V3 set-up:
MBX6-RCPD conversion (MBX5)
Medusa 36-60 2K
5S A123

I did open it & put some shrink tube on the fan wires cut a little off the inside lip of the bottom cover to give the wire a little more room.

So I took my MMM v3 out yesterday and today. Before the v3, I had three MMM v2 and all of them died on the same day after about going through half of my NEU 5000 lipo!

I got my MMM v3 back on Friday and yesterday took it out just doing speed passes on the dirt. Ran for about 20 minutes and LVC kicked in. Temps were good througout. Motor= 135, battery 127, ESC 117.

I then took it out to the tracks earlier today, and through two batteries everything was good. Motor= 140, battery 130, ESC 120 On the third battery after LVC kicked and I temped. Motor 140, battery 130, ESC 155!!!!. Wondering how all of a sudden the ESC was at 155, then I noticed the fan was not on.

So Looked into it and usually when you first turn on the ESC the fan is suppose to spin then go off. Well it never spins. The ESC worked, just hot and fan was not spinning. So I took off the case thinking maybe the fan connector came off, however it was still plugged nice and tight. So I disconnected the fan from the board and plugged the fan directly into a receiver battery and the fan doesnt come on. Verified there is 6.5 volts, however fan not turnning on. Looks like the fan is dead. Oh well, at least the ESC still works, at least there is progress there.

My other two MMM v3 is supposed to be delivered tomorrow, so one will be the replacement for my truggy and the other will be going into my buggy. Now I just dont what I should do with the unit with broken fan. Should I just find a replacement fan and run external wires directly to the receiver? What do you guys think?

Fans Die, It's a consumable, like Fuel or glow plugs use to be.

I am going to run my fan off the receiver. I just haven't had any luck with the Castle Fans.

I think castle will supply a replacement fan is you contact them, though it dpends whether you want another fan that *may* not last very long, or whether you want to source your own 25x25mm fan from elsewhere.

Yeah, just give Tech Support a call, and they'll get you a replacement out.

Thanx CC
 

All I can say is that I LOVE MY MMM:party:I can do backflips from a standing start on 6s:surprised:I have already run 3 sets (2x2s2p reedy 5000mah)of batteries on it and 2x 3s1p 4500 flightpowers. I am running a KB-45 (1600kv) with 25/54 gearing. Temps on the motor have never gotten over 150... MMM 130 ...and batts never got over 100, thats on grass ,dirt and pavement.I still haven't been able to give it wot( not enough runway):whip:

yeah just shoot an email to castle creations...i emailed them and Joe Ford got back to me ASAP and 3 days later I got 3 fans and I only asked for 2...great/fast service.....by the way I ran my V1 and V2 without the CC BEC and with the update and both are working perfectly!!!!.....Now to fix my rear diff case and rear hub carriers after hitting a jump at 45+ and not landing on my wheels.......Novak/MGM/Losi/Tekin who?????

....There it goes.....I probably just jinxed everyone and their MMM's.....my bad :)

Mmm V3
 

I was wondering if I could run the Monster on the LST2 with the 1527 1D 2300 kv and a 6S? Do you think the ESC will be able to supply the current that the bigger Neumotor? Thanks, I just wanted to keep my V3 running and not overworked it beyond what is's rated.:smile:

It is not the ESC that would get overworked, but the batteries. There are very few batteries on the market that will be able to supply the current that the motor will be asking from them. 2300KV on 6s is also asking for trouble. The RPM's will be too high to run as efficiently as possible. And honestly, the 1521 motor will be plenty to push around an LST2. :wink:

Mmm
 

I have a 2.5" extended Lst2 and the batteries are the new 8K 25c 6S from Maxamp. I do have a Neu Energy 5S 5k lipo that I could try it out. also my
Lst2 is quite heavy (17+) with all the batts and motor and also a big Genesis wheels and tire combo. I ran it before with a different controller and a 5S 8k batts but found out my batts were dying out on me. I figure with the 6S it should be just crazy fun. Also my Lst2 is anything but a stock, trans FOC +9 pinion gear and it still pulls with no problem. I also ran it with the 1515 1.5D and a 5S and it hauls my truck with Muggy tires real good. It is uncontrollably
fast at high speed but I recently made some changes on my Muggyfied LSt2 with some control arm limiter and would like to test it.

get some 50C constant 10000mah lipos which weigh a few hundred grams and your set... will jsut have to wait a few more months/years before these are available!

try find the highest C rated packs you can find which arent maxamps.

Why some bashing ? I was trying to get a reply with Castle about the MMM ESC. What I do with my setup is my business not yours. I am not a newbie with this brushless conversions. So if you have no answer to the question that I asked then it's not for you.

Whoah, welcome to the forum :mdr::mdr:.

You asked a question and you received some answers even though some of them are not what you wanted to hear.

Why don't you just e-mail CC or Pm Patrick, Bernie, or Thomas and asked them if you just wanted an answer from CC :whip:?

As mentioned 2300 kv is quite a bit too high for 6s. Many of us would much rather choose a kb around 1300-1600 for 6s, especially in a heavier truck like that. That will help keep the temps of the motor, ESC, and batts in a more reasonable range.

I actually ran it with the 5S and with a +4 pinion gear the motor never got hotter than 130 and then with watercooling my temps never get past 100 degrees. I am running a MMM on my Hyper 7 with 20 tooth pinion , a 4S 6k polyrc batts, 1515 1.5D Neu and it is a monster. I put an external fan on top of the Neu and the motor never got hot so I would like to try it out but afraid to mess up the ESC since I just received it.:yes:And yes I wasn't expecting a warm welcome on my new post.

i was pointing out in a jokingly way not to get any more maxamps packs. its clear from the real graphs compared to other cells (kokam, enderland, Flight Power ETC) that they arent worth the money.

i was also pointing out as others have said, it will draw alot of amps! but dindt mean to offend you, and welcome :)

Add me to the list of people that say that's too high of KV. That being said, if you can get batteries that can power that beast of a motor the ESC SHOULD handle it but you're going to pull a lot of amps. If you are set on getting the 1527 I won't try to stop you, but I believe it is too much. A 1521 will keep the front wheels in the air and have plenty of power. I would worry about destroying drivetrain parts (stripping ring and pinion gears, snapping drive pins, etc.), but if you want the 1527 that's cool and by all means go for it...just don't complain about it when you tear the truck apart.

7s2p A123 on a 1500KV 1.5D or a 1250KV 1Y should be good for that setup. I'd go for the 1Y myself, they are a more efficient wind. 2s A123 packs should be able to provide more than 200 amps burst.

Mmm V3
 

I got a little defensive there but it's all good now. I do know that it was waaayy overkill for the 1527 1D on the Lst2 since I tried it out and my
truck was just all over the place but I did some changes to the suspension
and maybe it will work better. Thanks for the warm welcome. :lol::party: