I checked the link you provided me for plastic welders and did a lot of reading. I know exactly which one I want, I just need the funding to get it. Thanks again for that link, it's great.

They have tons of info on that site. I have used the mini weld model 5 for at least 6-7years now and it has made me $$$$. A little expensive, but I can say that it has lasted. Have fun with it!

Ah very cool linc! I did try this but didnt like how much material needed to be removed so I scraped my attempt at it and went with the tmaxx bulks..

Fitting Summit shafts on the LST diff's 8 mm output shaft. Time will tell if it is strong enough. Summit shafts are way tighter than the U joint style Revo sliders. They don't have slop in them.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_07c3c6aa.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_c76c24d1.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_6e1fb542.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_8152f7f2.jpg

I have an e-revo and I want to do this mod. What do I need to buy and what do I need to mod? Any new bearings? Any new axles?

Anyone know something about the Team Losi Mini LST2? I am wondering if the upgrade diffs by Team Losi for the Mini LST2 would fit inside the ERevo's diff cases. I counted 38 teeth on the ring gear, not sure how many on the pinion. Either 13 or 14 teeth on the pinion would be my guess. I don't know what the size of the output shafts are, 4, 5, 6 mm?

http://images.amainhobbies.com/image...e/losb1250.jpg
http://images.amainhobbies.com/image...e/losb1251.jpg

Thee mini lst diffs are small enough to fit inside of a revo diff cup. And they are not strong at all.

Not strong eh! Well scratch that idea. Thanks Linc.

Will the Losi Aftershock differential work for this mod? Is it the same diff that in the LST2 or not as good?

its the same diff

a muggy diff is better suited because of the higher ratio but the aftershock will work just as well

xxl - lst -lst2 - aftershock all have the same ratio (xxl has a heavy duty diff cup)

muggy has its on ratio

hope that helped

Thanks Semi that helps out. Why would the muggy diffs be better? When I plug the number in to the speed calc it drops the overall speed down by 20mph. Would it be more efficient?

When I get a bigger spur on here I can use a smaller pinion. Right now the 25 is the only one that will mesh. These #'s are with the stock diff.
Stock E Maxx Diff
Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538462
Transmission Ratio: 1.7222222222222223
Additional Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 58
Pinion Tooth Count: 25
Battery Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Top Speed (MPH): 74.1061 MPH

With the LST Differential
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1.7222222222222223
Additional Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 58
Pinion Tooth Count: 25
Battery Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Top Speed (MPH): 63.7657 MPH

Muggy Differential
Differential Ratio: 4.090909090909091
Transmission Ratio: 1.7222222222222223
Additional Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 58
Pinion Tooth Count: 25
Battery Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Top Speed (MPH): 51.5576 MPH




I do have a couple more questions out of curiostiy and just the need for more knowledge. I found Mister Crashes Photobucket and looked over his pictures which asnwer many of my questions but I didn't see any of the insides of the LST case that hold the differential. Thanks for keeping your photo public MC.

I have been working on getting a set of these but there hasn't been many listed on ebay and if you don't win the auctions there's like a 5 day wait till the next one is up. A listing just came up with a buy it now price so before I spend that money I wanted ot see what the options were for installing a custom differential inside of the LST case. Well those didn't last long already sold.

If the LST case that goes around the differential can fit a Half case sized 1/8th scale differential and standard ring gear. I may only need to pick up the LST cases.

I am curious about the the internals to the LST differential or actually the differential itself. Is it a normal 1/8th differential or is it like the half size with the narrow gears planetary/sun gears installed inside?

The ring gear that is used for the lst the "Losi Viscous Differential Ring Gear" looks different then some of the ring gears I've seen. Looks similar to the traxxas ring gears. Can other ring gears be used in this differential or does the case the differential sits into prohibit that? It looks like the same size and hole patter as other ring gears. Is it the same diameter as other 1/8th scale ring gears?

For my last one in this post.. Why is this thread in the General Discussion forum when I am always thinking it is in the revo forum. Maybe a mod could move it unless someone thinks it is better off in the general forum......

Ok Gee,

Here goes... The internal of a lst diff are pretty much the same over the losi line, including sportwerks. eight buggy and truggy 1.0 diffs will fit the lst cases. Plenty of options on those diffs on wbay, and just buy the lst cases. Al cases are the best, plastic cases will crack the noses with very hard use/big tires.

All of the internal gears are the same, as are the cross shafts, and most use 8x16 bearings. Some of the 8b and 8t use 8x14 bearings.

I have a wealth of knowledge on these...ask away!

You guys are a big help to me. I am building a Revo myself with LST diffs and this is great. Thanks.

Well that sounds good. You can use a different ring gear/pinion in the LST cases as long as they are the standard 1/8th scale size. Selective gearing vs just using what the LST comes with. Although it doesn't look there a bunch of different option out there.

Semi Pro I did some more calculation or should I say played around some more with Brians Calculator. I found that the muggy gear ratio bring the numbers I was putting in real close to the 1:1 Rollout. So I think I am getting what you mean by the muggy diffs being a better fit.

Thanks for the help guys.

Only semi-related, but I sent you a PM linc.

I will check my mail...

no problem, i didnt realize you had posted more questions, but im glad you figured it out on your own:lol:

the 8ight diffs are a bad choise to try and put in the lst cases, the rears will not work at all due to the inverted ring gear and the pinion shaft is much smaller so you would need a very odd bearing to make up the diffrence

hey guys,new member here and i just scored some aluminum cased LST 2 diffs off ebay,i've read over this post a few times but im still kinda lost,is there a list of ALL the parts id need to do this? i've got THS CVD's on all 4 corners,will they still fit? and what center drives do i use? will stockers fit?.thanks.--josh

Your cvds should still fit, unless the cups on the lst2 diffs are incredible shallow or tight.
As for centers, you have 2 options:

1. A Hotbodies or similar drive cup with an 8mm bore, coupled with custom length center dog bones- Mike (our Lord and master of RC-M) can make those or hit up RCAlloys.
2. Buy a couple of these to go on the 8mm diff output shafts, then you can use your stock plastic center drive shafts.

I wouldnt like to say for definate, but it is possible that if you had center cvds or dogbones already, they may still fit fine if they are a little on the loose side; this is because the 8mm output shaft on the diffs is slightly longer than the normal 5/6mm shaft on the stock diffs. On my Gmaxx for example, I just had to grind the tips of the dogbones a tiny bit & they worked fine with my UE diffs that also have an 8mm output shaft. I would also look through this thread again for references to what people are using for outdrives and center shafts, just incase you overlooked it.

Welcome to RC-Monster, The Encyclopedia Brushless :yes:

EDIT: Just looked through myself, and from post # 37 onwards is alot of info on driveshafts- I forgot you have another option for the outdrive cups. Open up the diffs, remove the cups from each side, and replace with 4 of these, 2 in each diff. This will allow you to use the stock cvd drive cups on the diffs, to avoid any possible fitment issues. Beyond that, you just have to worry about making the diffs fit the bulks...

thanks alot!--josh

I would like to know if the RCM diff shafts that Neil linked are stronger than the Traxxas Revo stub axles I modify to fit the LST diffs. Also is the groove in the RCM axles for an O ring for better protection against leakage? Anyone know?

Something to consider, I use these diffs from this guy on ebay. I bought 5 or 6 diffs from him and each and everyone of them came with the aluminum cases and the Team Losi heavy duty diff case part# LOSB3528 which is stronger and is also the same diff case as the smart diff.

Some might be interested in how I put LST diffs in my bulkheads now. Once again, thanks Linc for the idea.

Got some diffs off of ebay finally. I got them installed in my G3R and posted a thread about it in that forum. Here's the thread.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...d=1#post325546

I also am trying something different to secure the diffs in the bulkhead.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...illandtap0.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rearbulk04.jpg

There's more pictures of that method in the thread I linked to above.

Thanks for putting in the link to your pictures MisterCrash. The one earlier in this thread are dead so I snuck into you photobucket to see your LST differential pictures before I started on mine.


I ran into the problem with the LST diff cups are shallower then the stock ones I was running with the stock revo differentials. The LST cups make the Trx Steel cvds to short and they pop out too easy. I've got the knuckles screwed in as far as I can. I might be able to do some more dremel work to end of the arms and get more steering and clearance to allow the knuckles to be screwed in a little more. If I can't find longer cups from another 1/8th differential. I will probably be switching back to the stock axles. Maybe the summit ones but will need the shafts that mike sells to do it with. If I come up with and solutions I will post. Any ideas on stretching the steel shafts another mm would be helpful.

Another thanks To HPI for making the savage bulkhead so easy. Man I don't want to open up the G3R to get to the bulkheads again anytime soon. Three times in a week is plenty for me.

Well...I did this Mod about 2 months ago and so far so good....I followed MC's lead on shaving the LST diffs, so the bulkheads aren't shaved too much...They run flawlessly (Knock on wood) with 10K diff oil in the front, 50k Diff oil in the MC Special center diff, and 5k in the rear diff....One thing that I did do differently, was I sprayed foam into the bulkheads once the diffs were in place, and they are solid...it feels to me like it strengthened the bulkheads a bit.... I was expecting the machine to slow down due to the lst diff's gearing, but I didn't see much of a cut in speed....

I'm haveing great luck also, about 8 months for one ERevo and about 3+ for my other. I filled my bulkheads with hot glue after installation and seems to be very stable. It was a lot of work and expense was not exactly cheap but superior over other alternatives in your handy.

I never did finish mine. Sad huh. I do have a set of hybrid cases to use in the speed truck project, should it ever get off the ground (bench). Guess I am having a rc construction block, need some sexlax to get me moving again!

I got some slop (differential case inside the revo bulk head) with my rear one. Will have to take it apart to see what is happening or what I did in the first place to get it to sit tight in the revo bulk heads. The front has held in place fine. The LST diffs have been bulletproof so far.

I've been in the rc construction block for a couple months now myself Linc. Seems every rc I have needs some work on it just haven't found the motivation to work on them.

Yeah, I did some cleaning up in the hobby room last night and really think it is time to sell of most of the rc so I can concentrate on the custom builds. I have a bunch of tamiya stuff that needs to move on and other stuff that I just do not use. Hate to take the hit on resale but i know the cash would be better served in savings than clutter... Once the dead of summer hits hard i will be building more, since the rc room has a new ac unit!!!

I may have a solution but you won't like it. I ran the Summit shafts on my E-Revo so I didn't use Losi's output diff cups. I made output shafts using TRA5454 stub axles. It's just a matter of grinding off the threaded part just enough and you can use it for output shafts. Then you could try RC Monsters Drive cups on the shafts. I think it might give the few mm more you need to prevent those CVDs from popping out. I have some RC Monster Drive Cups that I could measure for you and I also still have the LST diffs I used in the E-Revo so I could even slip a drive cup on one of the shaft and measure how far it sticks out of the diff.

Lemme know.
Ray

Yeah, I listed a bunch of my rc on craigslist and you know how that goes. Everyone wants them for free or close to it. Been working on fixing up the house so money is going towards that for now.


I saw how you made the output shafts and should have plenty of those stock shafts laying around. That would be great if you could measure them up when you have it opened up or what ever. I only have one shaft that pops out of the cup every now and then. Front right. The rest hold in there well, the rear diff is loose in the revo bulk head. May pack it with hot glue like someone mention for a quick fix until I feel like taking it apart again. Most of my RC play time anymore goes into my 5b. But the G3R get the second most time.

No problem.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...diff_cups1.jpg