Where did you get the 54t.....the factory is a 86t isnt it?

On the motor calculator with 31:86 I came up with a 2400 to 2700k motor

Jato spurs fit. They're 32p so a little tougher.

What is 32p?

Will all the parts from a rustler rear end fit the slash?

32p = 32 pitch, which is equal to the Mod0.8 pitch Traxxas uses for the Jato gears. Revo uses Mod1.0, etc

OOOOh :oops:

So what did you end up getting and did they work ???? :neutral:

Got any pictures ??? :wink:

Thanks..

I'll probably run the stockers until they break, then buy an upgrade of some sort. Haven't run either truck yet...just got my gears in yesterday. I'm hoping I can get at least 1 of them up and going this weekend.

I also wish there was a better, relatively inexpensive, diff setup. You can't change the grease to oil because the diffs leak (at the shafts and around the diff cover). So, it's either grease, or super thick oil, or locked. I'm sure a "real" diff could be done - look at the CRT.5. Either that, or come up with a better (aluminum) sealable case and use rubber seals on the shaft.

Mike used to have a diff for this transmission which had a steel gear screwed onto an aluminum case. I don't think he makes them anymore ($12 for an assembled VXL diff puts his $60 diff out of business) but if he re-made them but sealed them up I'd be interested in one. Not sure if I want to spend $60 on a diff, but it would be nice to get something that keeps the diff grease in there.

I ran automotive wheel bearing grease in my ER's diff for a long time and I liked the feel of it, but it eventually broke down and leaked out. I switched to white lithium grease and I really like how the diff feels when it's freshly packed but after just an hour or two it has already loosened up and started leaking. I hate pulling my diff out all the time, so I just leave it loose and deal with the terrible unloading. I'm thinking of trying some non-sling, high temp Moly grease next time I have the diff out, hopefully that'll stay in there a litle longer :neutral:

Just a small update...
I spent some time on Friday and got one of them up and running. It's set up as follows:

MMM
Medusa 36-60-2000
4S 25C 3700mAh PolyRC Lipo
Pro-Line Epic Beadlocks
Pro-Line Switch Tires
Geared 18:54

I took it out in the street on Friday and couldn't get it past about 1/2 throttle on a partially charged lipo without it going over backwards. Today, I took it to a field down the road with really short grass and ran the rest of that battery pack out to check out the temps. After 20 or so ~150yd runs through the short grass at full throttle, the temps were as follows:

Motor: 128F
ESC: 93F
Batts: 105F

It was pretty damn fast with a pack that only had a partial charge in it. It may be nearly undriveable with a fully charged pack. I can only imagine how much time it'll be on it's lid from going over backwards. All in all, it looks to be a real nice setup for putting down some big power in a 2wd truck.

Nice. We want a vid now. :smile:

I gotta get some better tires. Mine doesn't wheelie, it just spins the tires nonstop. The reduced weight of the 50mm Medusa and a heavy 4s 5Ah pack is probably not helping the wheelie thing. Usually, I set the ESC for ~70% punch control (or more), lowest timing, etc. But, I wanted to test the FLM CVDs I got and turned everything up for max power. Even a 39-50-2200 on 4s is just stupid. I have it geared 58/16 and it really moves. BTW: The FLM CVDs are quite nice and even though I'm using RPM arms, there is no apparent danger of the CVDs popping out.

I'm pretty happy with how the Pro-Line Switches work. They'll spin a bit on the asphalt on a full throttle burp, then the front end just lifts up and over.

What 4S 5000mAh pack are you using? I'm probably going to migrate to a higher capacity pack in the future.

I'm just using a couple MA 2s 5Ah packs I reconfigured into one 4s pack. Not the best quality I know, but the relatively HV setup should be easy on the cells.

Took out the camera and got some pics of my setup.

Click on a pic for a larger version.

http://skellyo.com/fs/slash_4s/slash_4s_sm1.jpg

http://skellyo.com/fs/slash_4s/slash_4s_sm2.jpg

http://skellyo.com/fs/slash_4s/slash_4s_sm3.jpg

http://skellyo.com/fs/slash_4s/slash_4s_sm4.jpg

VERY Nice Skellyo! :yes:

I have that VERY same ESC/Motor powering my E Revo. It does very well geared 18/52 Mod 1.

I'm very pleased with it on 4S. I'm using one of the old fat Novak Heat sinks on it. It seems to like it.

Thanks!

I just saw your post in the Medusa thread about your setup. I actually have an E-Revo on the way, so I may end up going with a Medusa for it if my Neu's find their way into my other vehicles before then.

i dunno if youve guys put aluminum rear hubs but i had the traxxas ones and the bearing actaully got loose in one side (bearings were all tight but it was loose where it poped into the hub, traxxas denyed an kind of replacment.....so no im using the ST racing hubs and the bearings almost have to be pressed in, very tight fit, perfect fit and finish, ill definetly be looking to them when i need more parts these are much nicer than any of the other on the market. Just thought id throw that out there because once you start jumping and running them good your gonna need better hubs.

Why do I even bother posting my Slash anywhere else?

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=451813
posts #8 and 11 specifically

Yeah, I saw that. I'm getting pretty tired of that place TBH. I don't even know why I go there. You either have the 10 year olds (or people acting like 10 year olds) spewing nonsense, people who simply regurgitate what they heard (and getting it wrong mostly), or just plain morons.

And extremely rare is the case where I actually receive an answer to a question. Even rarer is the case where some idiot doesn't put their incorrect $0.02.

Why do I even bother posting my Slash anywhere else?


Because you like the attention :lol:.

You can seal the plastic case diff up and use silicone fluid. Just trim the small plastic pieces (look like washers) off the diff case and cover where the outputs go, then use a countersink bit to open the holes up a bit. Get a 5mm id o ring, and then using the countersink it make it so about half of the o ring sits above the level of the case. Grease the oring slightly, and use a thing 5mm shim between it and the output bearings in the tranny case. Seal the diff with a small amount of rtv around the cover after you fill it.

I did this a while back and it worked well. Never saw any fluid come out by the diff outputs, but I did use reasonably thick fluid. One of the rc mags did a write up on slash mods recently, and he did a similar mod to the diff.

Yeah, I saw that write-up a while back, but I'm looking for a better solution. I tried this on my son's old Pede "non-BL" diff casing (was gonna throw it away anyway). Shaving away at the outdrive sleeve to fit the O-ring just reduced the length of the sleeve and caused outdrive wobble.

I'm just gonna live with the crazy diff unloading until there is a real solution.

Maybe MIKE can design & make a custom diff case if there is enough demand .

I already talked with Mike about that and he said he is looking into it, but it is lower on the priority list.

will the jato diff fit ?.

Nope. Not only is it wider, but the tooth pitch is all wrong.

Well, actually it can fit.... provided you want to do some SERIOUS modding. But if you're gonna go that far, might as well use a buggy diff. :smile:

Wouldn't a FLM tranny case fix the problem?

What would that do? I have the FLM tranny...

Working on a little bit of video from some bashing yesterday. As soon as it's done uploading to YouTube, I'll post a link.

I'm looking foward to seeing the video, thanks.

Here it is:
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9UqBpCK8Nf4&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9UqBpCK8Nf4&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

It seems to have handled the run pretty well, lots of tumbles. :) Anything break yet? I keep twisting the rear sliders at the yoke and I'm not running the power you are.

Popped apart a shock cap when I first got my Slashes, but the AL caps cured that. The only thing that happened yesterday was a yoke on the slider popping apart. No sliders twisted apart yet, but I think I'll be grabbing the new MIP CVD's soon to replace the stockers.

FWIW, the FLM CVDs work quite well so far. And Mike has them in stock (or did when I got mine a few weeks ago).

I just caught your post on on the traxxas board. :) I've lossened the slipper a bunch and that seems to be keeping it together but I'd rather have all that power to the wheels.

I notice you seem to cruise through that grass. :) Stock tires?

Pro-Line Switch tires on the Pro-Line Epic beadlocks

Whats your opinion on the Pro-Line Epic beadlocks? I haven't heard to many positives... How many runs do you have with them?

I've got a question for all that have these trucks.. How do they compare to the rustler? I know they look wider just wondering.
phil