Is the mesh a hair too tight? Put the truck on some kind of stand and rotate the spur by hand slowly. Is there a certain point it grinds? There could be a high spot on the spur...

I have set the mesh so many different spacings just to see if it changes this noise and it does not why im left scratching my head on this, never had any issue getting a clutchbell meshed but this is retarded now. Why my thought was maybe the mount or something off, my eyes maybe are playing tricks but to look at the angle of the motor doesnt look the same as the spur, I mean if it does this noise on the full rotation of the spur and no matter how its spaced one would have to lean towards the angle being wrong right?
Thanks for the suggestions I will keep trying anything at this point.

other than what you mention, the only other thing i can think of is the pinion itself... like i said - i was sent some .8 mod pinions, and they looked so close i didn't realise till i got hold of some proper mod1 pinions... They made the same grinding noise - you can hear and feel the gears 'clicking' off of each other...

Try what brian said - get a stand and move the spur slowly with ur hand - i usually hold a wheel and spin that slowly...

Yea it does it turning by hand to. Well doubt I will get the pinion by this weekend so maybe early next week and I will see how a different brand does, Robinson has a pretty good name when it comes to pinions.
Also just bought a true-rc 8000mah 4s lipo :yipi:

Another short run today, winter suks! Hate daylight savings. I used a Associated battery cup and put in front to keep the lipos from moving into the slipper nut and used 2 velcro straps, worked great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFktOIAwLwg

Here is the ae battery cup I cut to fit in here to keep the lipos from sliding into the spur nut, this is temporary till I get my new lipo. The one lipo there that has the shrink folded some, its just the shrink and not the lipo lol.
Last one is from yesterdays run :yipi:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/7ec110af.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/d77c28fd.jpg

Hey man, i just noticed the position your rear shocks are at... Mine are in the front of the rear arms, not the rear like yours - but - depending on the upper a-arm in the rear - i may be able to mount mine like yours and get the shock body off the side of the chassis!

Thanks man hehehe

...Savage 03 in your opinion oes the machine really need to be THAT long? I see you are still running the wheelie bar so i am guessing you are still getting the front up...

Well thats how long FLM makes the tvps but I prefer a long rig, gives a little more space to for longer lipos and not so many wheelies, yes I do still get some lot of power from this motor :yes:

I had problem with my SAvage gear. I called HPI and they told me to tightin the spur gear all the way down. Never had a problem again

First off, NICE build. Looks really nice, unfortunately now I want one :lol:

Second, if you turn the motor by hand (without pinion on it) how difficult is it to turn? Does it feel like it has notches? My MedUsa motors are noisy at low RPMs because of the strength of the magnets, I'm wondering if that noise you're hearing is just the motor, I know my Muggy was making some disturbing noises putting around the house but once I opened up the throttle a bit it went quiet.

You know I was talking to a member on my forum about this and he has a medusa in his emax and told me his is rather nosiy like mine is as well. To answer yes once it opens up it sounds like a nice bl motor lol, also yes it notches and pretty tight to I might add monster torque on this thing. I ordered a Robinson pinion and the HPI metal spur anyway but thinking it will do the same but it runs and doesnt seem to be harming anything.
One thing that will harm something (gears) is the monster max brake power, I have it set at 5% and it will still flip the truck forward, anyone have any suggestions to calm them more?

Adjust brake endpoint from radio maybe?

Ok to confuse the situation more I finally heard back from Novak just now and they say I need a 32 pitch gear :neutral:

For what? :lol:
I don't know what kind of gear standards Novak is using but you will not find any use for a 32 pitch pinion in your Savage. :no:

Here was his reply when I told him everyone else is using mod1, wont be buying more novak pinions talk about lousy service and wouldnt say anything on why the pinion looks so mangled since it hasnt even been ran like it should.

"Well, most of the plastic spur gears on any of the Monster Trucks that I’ve seen are all 32 pitch."

wtf??? give him a link to this site and then tell him to repeat those words!!

Maybe they have new support staff that aren't all that schooled up, or have their heads up a touring cars arse - the blokes there i always thought were pretty switched on so that's a strange reply imo...

Well, stick with the robinson or rcm pinions. I bought some novak 32p pinion and they are huge, very wide, to the point that they will not fit most of the motors I have. They either completely miss the spur (stick out too far) or touch the front of the motor...

Honestly their material was questionable too. Stick with the rcm or rrp hardened pinions. I run my savvy with those pinions and a plastic spur and it does fine... I will most likely put the flux tranny on when it comes out, just to simplify the setup.

+1

That metal spur gear will actually make more noise. It won't strip and as long as both it and your pinion are properly hardened it shouldn't wear out but it'll be louder than a delrin spur gear. I'm thinking that noise is mostly just the motor.

It is a 4 pole motor, and will make a notchy noise when the motor decelerates (sp?)... I run a metal spur and pinion on my lst, and with just the right mesh it is actually almost as quite as the plastic spur on the erevo... If the mesh is off it makes noise, quite a bit too....

I'm guessing the support person @ Novak was thinking "normal" RTR electric monster trucks, not the ones we're mostly running here...
Now who on earth would want to convert a nitro truck to electric? :rofl:

Yeah, my Muggy is actually more quiet than my E-Revo was. Still makes a bit of noise but that's just the motor.

Wow guys thanks for the info what I like to see :yipi:
Actually I know who the support person is, his name is charlie which is the man dude there and been there for ages so im surprised and the kinda lacking support I got in his replies, no offer for a replacement pinion and obviously bad info. So Robinson gets my money then, I have a 17t coming and so far the 15t novak thats on the truck now is holding up better then the 16t lol, once I get more funds I will maybe pick up a 16t rrp, right now with a 47 spur it seems pretty undergeared its not getting hot at all, why I grabbed a 17t to see how that does.
I got my new true rc lipo yesterday also, nice pack (4s 5000mah). Hoping come tax time I can pick up the 8000mah next, I will get some pics once I get the braces put in, I was reading a older post and saw how the guy made a really nice stop but I forget who it was sorry I will look it up again to give credit :)
One other thing I went ahead picked up a new 2 speed tranny with the HD gear to give it a try I think with a 4s a shifting tranny can be done and the same thread I was reading about the brace he was using the 3spd with no issues and many runs, think you guys with the 6s are the main ones having issues haha for me im plenty happy with the 4s power.

Got some stuff done this am, with my new lipo here I wanted to make a better brace to keep the lipo from sliding into the slipper nut, bad deal. Had some scrap carbon fiber so used that and 2 of the braces FLM includes then used some battery foam from AE think its for the b4 or something like that, then used the larger piece for the bottom of the lipo.
I also came across this idea from my mountain bike days, ever just need a allen wrench while your out for a quick run and didnt pack any tools? Happens to me often but dont feel like packing all the different sizes. Solution? Get one of these, small and has 2mm, 2.5 and 3mm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/a98037f9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/7e94862e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/3836b30f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/b4a0d773.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/8120443e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/fc9427d6.jpg

Little update on what I have done so far, added a new 2spd tranny and HPI metal spur with robinson pinion and things are bit more quiet. I ran it for the first time with the 2spd this afternoon(been really sick and still am so ventured out anyways) and it shifts fine, I was in a vacant parking lot so I had tons of room to test it cause I was sure I would have to play with the shift point some, had no blown tranny to report so I just think the ones with issues are the larger lipo users. I will say on the 4s and 49/17 she was darn fast, it would at times lift one front wheel and donut that thing like crazy.
Now stupid me totally forgot about esc brakes not working lol so I have no savage brakes to install right now and im flat broke so its a bit scary to run this thing with no brakes:gasp:

Here is a question im thinking over and hopefully someone can help me out, originally I locked the 2gear in the 3spd tranny and now I have the fully working 2sp tranny, once its in 2nd will I essentially be in the same ratio as my locked up 3sp was? If so I wasted money buying a new tranny but oh well and I can put it back in and have brakes and reverse!

The second at 2-speed is taller than second gear at 3-speed, so now your truck will go faster with 2-spd transmisson if you're using same spur & pinion. :)

Think it would be better to just lock the 2nd gear and forget about 1st? or what about locking the 3sp into 3rd? Be nice to have reverse back and brakes without spending more money :)

IMO the 1st gear is useless and if you're going to break your tranny, it will most likely happen when it shifts to 2nd gear.
...jaddajadda, bahbah...

edit: Oops.. dunno what I was thinking there... it's ofcourse the first gear that has the one-way bearing. Misinformation removed, sorry. :oops:

Ok so I just finished jb welding my new 2sp gears. Had another brain storm lol, any reason I cant put the 3speed 3rd gear back on and leave 1st off like it is now so it starts in 2nd and will shift to 3rd? On 4s im not having issues shifting so be interesting to see if I can run it like that.

I instead had a little brain fart there with the previous post, see my edit - it's ofcourse the 1st that has the one-way not 3rd.

Anyway, putting the 3rd on will cause an interesting situation at shift point, because then you will have two different ratios connected simultaneously which results a fully locked transmission (and most likely some broken parts...)

If 2nd gear is not glued or locked wont it shift to 3rd?

It will shift to third in both cases, just that the transmission will lock itself if the clutch at second gear is solid. With normally operating 2nd gear clutch it will work just right.
Getting the truck to move from standstill without 1st gear is problematic - you have to adjust the clutch at 2nd so that it will engage right when you give throttle. Otherwise the motor spools up revs until the clutch engages and then your truck launches with a bang (or brakes gears...).

Got some short run time on this guy today till this ended it, never seen a bone shera like that, twisted the ball right off :shock
Oh and enjoy the tune lol :rock
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/69aa1eef.jpg
Video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhOsZT5yt6c

I've never seen that clean of a snap in all my days.

All 5617 of them to be exact.

Had my savage since it first came out and broke many and I mean many a dogbone and never seen one twist the top off. Should note I have upgraded the front end to the XL diff and bones but been lazy and havent got around to the rear lol but I have like a dozen of these so called stronger dogbones in my box still so might go break some more before I upgrade haha

Well here it is the green machine lol, having tire issues so only the fronts are the new ones of coarse with the new beadlocks, I have been sent the wrong version of the LST tires now 3 times! Word is tho the ones I use(original LST meats) are no more :diablo:
For those running these how are you setting your slippers? If I run it locked it just wheelies constantly and is rather annoying and really needs a little slippage to tame the wheelies but the savage slipped isnt really the best out there, would be nice to see HPI come up with a HD slipper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/e4d4c43c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/bbdc617f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/50d475c6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/c5fa392d.jpg

Been awhile!
Few things I have done since last post, got the flux tranny gear so no more jb welded gears but now I find its slower then it was before so a gear change is in order. Got a hero cam for my slash and got a mount made up to put it in the savage as well awesome cam to have for rc's! Really about it :wink:


Shes a brute now and ready to tear up some pavement.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/23878484.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/30cb292c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/2cee0346.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/d1600b73.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/da179228.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/4f62074f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/7aac7335.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOg2x3B7dgw

Great point of view! really cool to seer the front suspension working.:mdr:
Nice build.

Thanks, im pretty proud of it and dont miss nitro! Just gotta play with the gearing now cause its much slower then it was before I was using a locked in 2nd gear setup before.