You'll need to decide what voltage your going to run then choose a motor with a kv rating to spin 30-35k.

The web page is no longer available so i took a picture of my print out.

Wow thats cool, What does the red mean in your chart? is that optimal


I dont know where to start on what voltage to run, becuase I dont know what motor to run to get the speeds to 60mph.
price wise it looks like one 5S 5000 25C
or Two 3S at 15C each put in Series, would I need 2500's or two 5000's ?

Edit in later today
I guess I'll go with a castle 2200 motor ... so a 4S or 5S, castle tech was telling me, that with my setup a 4s should bring 40-55mph and a 5S 55-60mph , and if it's not hot bump up the gearing.

Hey guys, thanks again on info
I have been grabbing things to sell and put on ebay so I'm buying some 5s Lipos and a MMM
Spoke to Castle, recommended the 2200 motor and 4s for 45mph and 5s for 50+mph

going with Losi aftershock diffs with my own lock/spool, may use gorilla snwatt in front diff

putting in some Losi 2.0 truggy or 8ight front Shocks
and some integy Upper revo arms
also going to find a way to mount some 1/5 wheels

It's getting Exciting :intello:

The castle 2200 motor on 5s lipo runs great in my friend's savage. Plenty of power. He runs a 4900 mah 25c 5s lipo, and it does fine. He is currently geared for about 42mph, but we had it geared for 55 and it did fine for a 5-8min run (had to stop as we were going to break stuff at that speed!).

Need some more help on Motor and battery

Is a 95amp max Feigao 2383 motor ok to use with a 160 amp battery ?

Looking at buying Two 5s 1s1p 3200XP 25c and putting in Parallel = 5S 6400 128 amps.

Or should I get a castle 2200 before I blow the Feigao 7XL ?

The feigao will get hotter than the castle motor. Hot stuff can draw more amps. The castle motor is more efficient, so it will make better use of the available power.

The 160 amp lipo will do fine with either motor. The 6400 5s 25c lipo is good for 160 amps cont, not 128amps.

I think your right. There is another guy that responded to same question but said the Fago cant handle 5s it will burn up the magnets

I do want the CC but I have noticed there are Black 2200's instead of the green. so I'm trying to figure whether to buy a MMM for $140. and try to get the black one for under $120.
a new combo with green motor is $158. delivered

Cool thanks, that's what I'm hearing. was going to verify with castle today but they are closed for Good Friday

Think I'll bid on the black one, just not liking the green

Thank you for the Compliments :smile:

some latest pics
Losi Aftershock Diffs
Losi 2.0 truggy Front shocks are really nice, but I was misinformed about length. they are sopposed to be longer than Losi 8ight shocks, but in fact these shocks sopposedly 2.0 frnts are 3 /34" so I'm trying to find out what shock is 4" or between 4 and 4.5"

Been eyeing the INtegy revo upper arms to swap in for upper only
but both look so good it's tuff to decide. so I printed them out and put them on the car
what ya think ?:mdr:

tape on tires to help see what the actual new tire width size will be

which ones are which? if i were you, i would stay away from the integy ones, i haven't heard good things about the quality of the Al the use.

Yea I know Aluminum is not as durable as the stock or RPM, I was just going to do the uppers.

The Large arms that allow shock inside are (Integy) intt3122s for revo rear

the smaller sleeker ones are (integy) t3203, revo front but unlike the 3122 these do not have nylon inserts

Hey Right awn Thank you for that
I'll check them out

NEW UPGRADES

Fitting Losi 2.0 muggy Diffs inside Traxxas emaxx and Revo bulkheads

Screw the dremel to make a round tube smaller, I used my drill press and an endmill bit- 4 flut .
There is a thread on how to fit muggy truggy diffs in your revo or maxx but it consisted of a lot of hand held dremel time and ugly finish

With using a Drill press you get a precise cut and finish in 2 minutes ! :yes:

Here is how I did it, Lath process with a drill press !

1" Hose coupler at hardware store $.99.
cut off an inch or so and find a socket that fits snug inside

then clamp the the socket in the vise of the drill press so that you can rotate the coupler by hand

use a 1/2" endmill

then measure how much needs to be trimmed down. I eyeballed it then checked with a caliper.
turn on drill press and bring down bit and then just start slowly turning the the plastic tube to cut all the way around.

I made 4 pieces in less than 15 minutes

more pics
you can use the same endmill bit to cut down the traxxas diff collar to fit onto the losi diff housing also

First pic
I cut the stub axles to fit the Losi side diff gears and still use Revo axle shafts
I replace the stub wheel axle with new titanium stubs.

To make Lockers for the diff and the new Losi muggy center Diff I cut a piece of aluminum and Delrin to fit inside the carriers which ties the left/right outputs to the ring gear
(note: I used Delrin because it was easier to cut and sand down in the belt sander and it was lighter by a tad.
using the Alum one for the Center

More parts

Losi Heavy duty Differential cases

Aluminum covers

Losi 8ight front shocks
total length 68-97mm about 3 7/8"

Losi Aftershock driveshaft , cut it in half and added a stainless tube and will be welded in.

Nice looking adapter! I had a piece of sch 80 turned down to match the large ID on the bulk. And then had it paired off to the correct width. I did not bother to make the little step like you did, as I saw no need for it. Modding the front pinion support takes a bit of work, you need to turn the inside out to the OD of the nose of the lst case, then clearance the back of the collar to get it to fit against the lst case.

I also like the sectioned lst driveshafts. I see that you sleeved them, did you also weld it too?

hey thanks lincpimp, -what does that mean?
Yea , I thought I took pics, guess not. I did forget to mention I did use a dremel to enlarge the inside of the collar, then a file to even it up.


Yea once I make my CD / motor mounts I will decide on length needed for the front and rear shafts, Then Weld them

Sounds like a good idea on the center driveshafts. The pipe I found had the correct ID, so all I had to do was turn the outside down to the correct OD.

lincpimp came from a bunch of us picking up chicks with an old lincoln towncar that I used to own.

If anyone needs to modify there dif output shafts I found these http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/82021/
just like the traxxas ones you still need to cut off the threads.


I'm still trying to decide on battery setup

Part of me wants 6s lipo 35C 6400mah
but my wallet cant handle it, with this economy and imposible to get a new job

This car maybe be done ready to roll Shelf queen until I can afford a high power Lipo.
it will be just running around with the 3s 2250 30c I have

OOPS, I guess it's not as easy to modify. I thought it would need to be grounded to make shorter, drilled, and put in drill press with file to take off the flange. But if the holes are to far apart then it's definitely not worth it.

Thanks for sharing.

cool thing to do is use your axle stubs for this mod and then buy some titanium revo stubs to replace them on the axle.

YEa 1/5 tires !
machining the adapters for them

Center Diff build time
Some parts

Losa 3562 45t spur for the Losi 8 E. a mod1
I took a 43t regular HPI gear and drilled it out to match it up .

Spur pinion Ratio Total ratio 3s speed 6s Speed

49/14 3.5 11.5 28mph 56
49/17 2.88 9.5 36 72
45t/14p 3.21 10.6 32 64
45/12 3.75 12.4 26 52
45/13 3.46 11.4 28 57
44/14 3.14 10.3 31 62
43/12 3.58 11.8 29 58
43/14 3.07 10.15 33 67

Linc HAPPY BIRTHDAY :party:

Thanks! I have had a busy b-day week, but it is all good. I get to build lipos all day tomorrow... Yay....

ANybody know of someyone that has adapted 1/5 wheels on 1/8 or 1/10 trucks ?
My way is a machining nightmare

Some new mock ups,
Making 1/5 wheel adaptors, square drive and some 5/16 wheel bolys to screw onto the trxxas shafts

For wheel adaptors, I used a 5/16 hex cap head bolt drill the center , cut the threads off, then Tap to 10/32 to match traxxas axle threas and then drill a 6mm 1/8 depth. Been a PITA as it does not always center, need a real machine

Making a tranny/motor mount out of Delrin, cause I dont have any 3/16 aluminum.

Since the car lifts the front under acceleration with just 3S , 15:1 ratio The motor will be mounted in the front almost centered

brightened it up with some yellow

Nice that Castle makes the ESC Black and Yellow, weird the motor is green
Motor will look hot with Silver and Yellow:yes:

Any body have a proven way of removing anodize other than phosphoric acid/water mixture ?

maybe I'll just use high temp paint :neutral:

I would take a scuff pad to the motor and get in all of the little grooves. Then spray light coats of yellow until it iss covered. Let it dry in the sun for a day or so and the take some light grit sandpaper and sand the fins till the al shows back thru. That would look really good with the black endcaps.

I've found Castrol Super Clean degreaser takes off anodizing if you let the parts soak in it. Anodizing isn't that tough it can be polished off pretty easily too. Btw, nice job so far.

Edit: I really like linc's idea, and method.

Hey thanks, yep LOL I was thinking the same , but man sanding all the grooves, Holy cow. maybe I will dab it with TSP to prep for paint.
your right the black end caps finish the touch of color scheme :mdr:

thanks for compliments
Yea I have used castrol , man is it powerful, it will take paint of car wheels fast. anodize is a chemical bonding, I would not say that is not tough.
I have used oven cleaner on aluminum small part and rapped in aluminum foil, it pitted it something awfull and I watched it and still did not remove all of it./
I found a few search results about anodize removal, but unless you do a proper mix of chemicals other home remedies dont work.

http://www.finishing.com/2000-2199/2076.shtml

thanks guys, I'll post up results

The castrol super clean won't pit the aluminum like oven cleaner will, at least on the alum I've done. It will take away any shine, making it dull and in need of polishing. Now that I think about it more, on a motor, I'd use a scotch brite pad like linc said, or a buffing wheel with a medium compound to take off the anodizing. Either will leave a finish that isn't too rough and will be easy to polish up if wanted.

As far anodizing being tough, I was refering more to its abrasion resistance. That's why I think even something with as little abrasiveness as a buffing wheel with a medium compound would be worth considering in your case.

Either way good luck and post up when you're done. And thanks for making me want to change my motor color now!

Hey guys what do you think,
time to place the motor and tranny and weld up the shafts so would you say mount all the way forward or partially ?
Also
I'm thinking I should mount motor all the way up front and slightly to one side and use the 6s lipo on opposite side to counter the weight, On the other hand mount motor in center 1:5" above chassis
I like the look of centered but offset gets it lowest CG, what do you guys think ?

Got the motor/tranny mounts finished but having second thoughts
Built it so the motor is just slightly off center but close to the bottom.

Looking good. I'll be watching.

thank you lutach :mdr:
Motor getting painted today :intello:
where in Brazil are you , anywhere near the Tijuca jungle near Rio De Jenero ?

I should start painting my motors, I like green, yellow, blue with a bit of white :lol:. Actually I'm in Kearny, NJ, but I was born in a very Americanized little town in Minas Gerais.

Not sure where that is, but that's cool, hope your in the nice neighborhood.
When I was there in Rio for my street luge race in 2006 I had my girlfriend with me and we were approached on the beach (Copacabana) at night by some young kids and holding knives in there hands, talking Portuguese I guess they wanted money, I was about to grab his hand with the knife in it and slam him to the ground but just before I went for him my girlfriend yelled really loud" you better get the Fxxx out of here" and they ran off, dont think they were ready for confrontation, LOL:lol:

Anyway
I got the motor painted, I actually masked of the fins with tape so I would not have to bare the task of taking of the paint and keep the nice machined shiny surface. but I ran out of tape half way through so I just used a razor blade to scrap off the paint.
Came out SWEET !

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