The vbs has other suspension geometry, rear kick up like the front and caputerd hinge pin's. It's not only lighter, but nothing is as strong as the towered version.

Also try and get a vbs second hand. They go around 350'ish. Hard to come by tho.

Squee,

Why 6 spyder? If you add a few buck's you got a complete alloy diff that will never cause any problem's. More value for the money.

The 8 spyder is sold for 68 or something, is it for one set ( front diff only) or both F/R?

What's the good thing about the G-Maxx chassis? it seems a bit fragile. Also why did you recommened the racerX suspension over the Extended one? what are the things I need from the original truck to use with the aluminum one?

It's a pure racer chassis, but can take some abuse. Your a basher, so deffinatly the flm chassis will be stronger. Also you don't need a lowered battery plate, I think the limited ground clearence will effect terrain you want to bash on.

You need to find a way to mount the esc, receiver, ubec, battery pack's, solder connector's to the battery pack's, mount or make an antenna mount, body mount's, etc. Allot of little thing's that take age's to finnish.

I wouldn't go for a screw kit. Rather pick some flat head's and countersunk screw's of 6, 10, 14, 16 and 20 mm's and you'll be set. Get a nice bunch of them, like 20 of each size. You will be surprised how many screw's there are in an emaxx!

no less than 350 if I'm correct.

Some, but you have to find one. It's hard to find a used vbs in good nick, let alone find one for less than 350.

Well, I meant the no. of screws the whole chassis of an e-maxx might take. HeHe, does not matter. About the 8 diff spyder..is it for F/R a set or one set for one end?

That's for 1 diff. You'll need 2 of them.

So the CG of the FLM chassis is not as good as the G-maxx chassis, huh? for speed runs I might need a very low clearance to add more center of gravity to the chassis. This way I might be able to rach higher speeds.

That's where the racer x come's into play. It handles so much better over a normal type suspension. Used with the racer x shock's you can make one sweet handeling truck even with a high cog'd chassis.

Just to make thing's clear, you can easely race this type of chassis's. For a straight line speed run it doesn't make a difference. The lowered battery plate come's into it's own at a track, or if you want to run tight corner's at high speed.

i recommended the gorilla chassis because they are VERY durable and make the truck handle like its on rails. i am not really a fan of the stock type chassis' but if i were to get one i would definately go flm and i recommended the racer-x suspension for one thing is if you bash, the true track rear suspension comes in handy; less things to break. i.e. the rear turbuckles. also, i would suggest the powerstroke shocks. they are probably one of the best.

The UE racerX suspensions need cvds. What are the cvds I'm supposed to use with them? should I get the 70mm or 100mm dog bones?

You need the 2.5 version cvd's. Not sure about dogbone's.

Oh cvd booties are also a nice thing to get. And some dry lube for the cvd's and servo saver.

why do you say that??

the FLM chassis is a league on it's own.. it has got a higher CG, (more ground clearance, nice for bashers)

And when it comes to weight/quality, nothing beats 4 UE shocks..

i admit that the flm is in a league of its own as for durability but i would just prefer a gorillamaxx. even if i only bashed. and for the shocks its just my opinion but i think ue is a bit over rated and expensive although good. i have the powerstrokes and i dont think it gets any better. if you bash i would think 8 prolines would be better than 4 ue because the prolines have the 4 dampers or bypass shocks which help with really big jumps (what i would do if i only bashed still). just my .02 cents.

Over rated? No, they are that good. I love them, best shock's i've ever owned.

Let's put it this way - gmaxx and flm are both good chassis, same with the ue racer x shock's and proline powerstroke's. Whichever you chooise, you won't be dissapointed.

Well, that sounds good, indeed.
The ones that Mike has on this site( Ue cvds I mean), is it suitable for the RacerX suspension kit?

Yes, they will fit the racer x.

Are the RacerX and EXT suspensions equal in width?

yes

Okay, what about the bearings that come with the RacrX and the UE cvds? are they also equal in size?

do you plan on getting the 8mm cvds? or the 6?

6 mm cvd's will fit the bearing's that come with the racer x kit. 8 mm cvd's need bigger bearing's.

Okay, everything seems fine till now. Let's talk about the drive train a bit more. The forward only conversion from Unlimited Engineering seems a good Idea for the e-maxx, however, is it going to save me any trouble with the G-maxx single speed conv. I mean, does it fit in the g-maxx single speed conversion without any modifications like cutting the out put front shaft of the FOC? what modifications am I going to do if the FOC does not fit in the single speed kit?

with a e-maxx there is no reverse servos like the t-maxx. the tranny will operate in forward and reverse with no additional gears. thus, you can reverse the diffs and tranny to conpensate for weight distribution, ect. all you need for the tranny is the flm cnc'd half, mikes idler, and the gorillamaxx single speed conversion, as well as the stock gears in the rest. also, i would stay away from the lightweight input and output shafts. the only thing i would do is get the lightweight idler shafts since they do not move and the idler only spins on them. although you will only save a few grams.

Saving weight is not my point. I just read about these steel gears made by ue and I thought it would be a good idea to make the whole drivetrain beefed up with metal gear...opps..I mean metal gears. So if I'm to use a high powered brushless setup, is it not a good idea to use the FOC to guarantee the safety of the drivetrain?

Its ok, you wont need the FOC conversion to beef up the tranny, all it does is save you a couple of grams of weight and eliminates reverse, these gears are intended for racers.

If I dont buy it, then I'll surely save myself some money, but are you truley sure its unneeded? Mike did not recommend it as well.

Its unneeded in a g-maxx 1 speed, just keep reverse and save yourself some money and hassle.

Okay, you saved me this time, indeed. The wheels and tires, what do you recommend me to use?

The FOC is only used in nitro. It will NOT work with the emaxx tranny. REverse will be handled by your speed control. You can choose to program with or without reverse.

Right, I completely forgot. Whew, almost going to take it. Thanks guys. How about the rims and tires?

I reccomend to get 23mm dace or pro-line(im gonna use pro-line just cause they cost alot less) adaptors and get wabash rims, on 40 series crime fighters or bow-ties.

The adapters that come with the Ue 6mm cvds are not useful with the 23mm tires? the ones that Mike has.

No, they are not useful with the 23mm tires, as the hex hub the 6mm ue cvds come with stock sized hubs.

Does the Dace hex adapter suit the ue 6mm cvds?

Yes it does.

Do you recommend plastic or aluminum rims? why?

I reccomend plastic, why, because they save money, are cheaper to replace, and are alot lighter, in a big crash you are more likely to bend a aluminum rim, as for plastic, it may chip a peice of plastic and still be useable.

Your mind works in the same dirction mine does. Thaaaaaaaaanks alot, pals. I'll go and make some corrections in my list. I'll talk to you later, Sylvester, PAPA.