On the new 3-shoe clutches the shoes get installed opposite of how they get installed in the 2-shoe ones.

For the 3-shoe, they go trailing. Just like a regular nitro clutch.

Thank you for the answer. When I was into nitro's I used the Fioroni clutch system so I never really had to play with traditional nitro clutch systems.

so same nothing i got from tekno the last time we talked about this problem?

Not much he can do without seeing the car in person. This clutch is working fine for many users and your situation seems isolated to me.

Have you tried to send the clutch in for a FREE replacement to the new version yet? They designed it for people who have trouble setting these things up on their own. The new clutch is foolproof.

You could have a working car in the matter of days if you do send it in.

Good luck!

Wow, i just read this whole thread and lots of good questions and discussion. just wanted to share my 2 cents.

I recently ordered the new 3 shoe clutch system from Tekno and it should be here in the morning. i am very excited to try it as i have 100% confidence in anything coming from Tekno. i will be sure to report back on my experiences with it.

i ran the 2 shoe clutch system on my first conversion without troubles but after experimenting with the longshank pinion i liked it better for some reason and have stuck with it since.

i have never had any troubles with any of my motors or the bearings while using the pinions or clutches. in fact, i tried a center diff mounted setup a while back and had many more problems like heat and having to do mods, that were not there with the chassis mounted identical setup. it wasnt a bad kit but after experimenting my preference was for the Tekno setup.

i also believe firmly that the diff mounted motor actually puts more stress on the motor bearings than the chassis mounted motor. proponents of the diff mounted motor argue that the motor is always moving with the center diff so no matter how the chassis flexes the motor will move in the right direction being bound to the center diff. this may be true but did they ever stop to consider that the center diff mounted motor is held in place by 2 small 3mm screws on one end of a 16oz motor? this means that when you land off jumps or hit large bumps the end of your motor that is not mounted is most likely bouncing up and down very slightly. whether you like to believe this or not this is true. i am willing to bet that if there was a way to test this you would see more flex at the gear mesh and around the shaft of the motor on a diff mounted motor setup than on one of Teknos chassis mounted setups. i will put $100 where my mouth is. there is no way you can argue that a chassis mounted setup has gear mesh flex and not admit that your diff mounted setup does the same, if not much worse. fact is they both have some flex. obviously both setups work but the chassis mounted setup has many more advantages like:

1. reduced heat. the chassis mounted setup acts like a giant heatsink. the motor being directly linked to your alum chassis helps in pulling heat from the motor and keeping things cooler. i have actually proved this by running identical setups in terms of motor, batt, etc and only changed the mounting style. others have seen the same results.

2. the option of running a clutch. this is not preferred by all but many love the effects of a clutch setup and are able to tune their setup accordingly.

3. the option of mechanical brakes. now technically you can have mech. brakes on any setup but i have yet to see a diff mounted conversion that is built to include or support mech. brakes. i was able to make a diff mounted setup work with mech brakes but only after much frustration and lots of modding. Every Tekno kit comes ready to include mech brakes which is a huge plus. for those that dont want to run mech brakes to save weight or for whatever reason can easily opt not to without it affecting the kit whatsoever.

So there is my bit. I will get down off my soapbox now. Bottom line is this; I have tried several kits now and witnessed many others in use at the track and i am convinced Tekno offers the best platform on the market. That is not to say their product is perfect. There is always room for improvement. But mark my words, as 1/8 BL continues to grow in popularity and starts to take over this hobby the best setups and winningest desings will be based on a chassis mounted, mech brake setup, with the option to run a clutch. Whether it comes from Tekno or somewhere else i believe this to be the most technically advanced 1/8 BL setup.

That's the biggest oxymoron I have read so far. We're talking about elektri-clutch and you come in rambling about diff and chassis mounted setups.

It seems like you haven't gotten over your discussion with someone else in the forum :rofl::rofl:.

my Bad,
you are right George. i should have included Brians question from post#21 in my post.

quote:
Teknorc: I was curious what effect, if any, that the long shank pinions have on motor bearings? During operation, doesn't the flexing/twisting of the chassis put stress on the motor bearings (front especially) from the spur/pinion pressing together?

BTW: I'm not trying to slam the product, just was curious about your thoughts on this..

end quote

i was replying more to this but as i also stated i should be getting my new 3 shoe clutch today and will be sure to post feedback on it. also, the posts by Himalaya seemed like they could benefit from a different perspective. thats all, Bud.

oh, and btw, read up on the definition of the word oxymoron before you use it again. maybe you meant something else, idk.


def. oxymoron
A rhetorical figure in which incongruous or contradictory terms are combined, as in a deafening silence and a mournful optimist.

a figure of speech by which a locution produces an incongruous, seemingly self-contradictory effect, as in “cruel kindness” or “to make haste slowly.”

a couple of examples of an oxymoron would be "jumbo shrimp", "soft rock" or in todays economy some might call "job security" an oxymoron.

good luck.

read up alittle, many of us have had this problem and the only fix so far is to lose the clutch and run a long shank pinion.

i want a real fix, if i wanted direct drive i would have bought the rc monster mount and been done with it.

both times now that i have tried to figure it out with tekno they have just stoped responding to me in e-mails and the fourms, i have been patient but with the looming threat of of the race season starting soon i need results because i dont want to have to spend $60 on a diffrent motor mount so that i dont have to use the long shank pinions.

Have just started using the Electriclutch and it's goin fine for me, haven't had the clutchbell over 160 yet and I have been trying to heat the bugger up.

Just using standard Revo shoes and spring.

At this point, it is too hard to diagnose without seeing it. We've been through all of the questions but I feel we are missing something. I think the 3 shoe clutch will work way better but I don't want to mask the problem for you. Send us your old clutch adapter and we'll upgrade it for you just like we have for many of our other customers. Feedback from the 3-shoe setup has been 100% positive so far. Again, send us your old adapters (include the whole assembly so we can take a look at it).

Oh, one more thing I was thinking about (this may seem like a dumb question, don't take this the wrong way:). Is there any way that upon accelerating that the brakes are also engaging? What is your radio setup like? Are you using 3rd channel mixing or a Y connector?

the brakes are not engaging while accelerating, im not useing 3rd channel mixing, i am currently useing a y-connector

i will drop the old tekno adapter in the mail, where do i get 3-shoe clutch pads from? because i cant think of any 3 shoe clutches

Any standard 1/8th 3-shoe clutch shoes will work (Ofna, Kyosho, Mugen, Jammin). Or we have a set that can be used (TKR4105). Same with the springs, but we recommend the thinner .7mm springs (TKR4107).

Also, you might want to try the truck without brakes for a couple minutes (just unplug the servo) and see what happens. Either way, get us that old adapter and we'll get you an updated one. Thanks.

got my new 3 shoe clutch a couple of days ago. hoping to get my Mugen up and running this weekend. i havent even been able to drive a single one of my trucks for about a month now. i am having serious withdrawals. everything has been taken apart while making custom chassis'. anyway, the weather is a bit warmer now and i cant wait to drive again. i looking forward to trying the new clutch and let you know what i think. it looks top quality.

question though, i didnt see any carbon shoes that you sell for this new clutch. do you have any on your site that i didnt see? i just want to run a single carbon shoe with the other 2 alum shoes. heard this reduces maintenance and helps to keep the gunk out of clutchbell associated with running alum. shoes.

another quick question.

is there a reason why you used steel for the clutch shoe adaptor instead of aluminum like most designs and like your previous 2 shoe clutch? i know you mentioned that this new design is heavier just wondering if using aluminum could have save on weight a bit.

We went with steel so we could have it be all one piece, spin true, and greatly increase it's durability. Using aluminum wouldn't have held up.
The three shoe clutch, ready to go, is only 3 grams heavier than the previous multi piece, 2 shoe design ready to go. And the new two shoe clutch adapter is 7 grams lighter than the original.

thanks Matthew,
another question. does the new 2 shoe design use the same springs as the 3 shoe with a trailing shoe setup or is it like the old 2 shoe setup with the spring that wraps around the shoes?

Same shoes and same spring set-up.

as what??? the 2 shoe or 3 shoe????

sorry bro........2 shoe

Hey Tekno,

With the 3 shoe adaptor I know that different clutchbells fit better than others as some fully cover the shoes and some don't. I have Tekno clutchbell and I compared it to a mugen one. The mugen one has a slightly shorter skirt, will this be a problem? It still looks like it will cover the shoes, but I just wanted to know if has tried other brands of clutchbells. Thanks.

There shouldn't be any issues. The new clutch has a lot of surface area and plenty of grab. You could try shimming up the clutch shoes with some small washers or clutch shoe shims. Give it a try though, it should be fine.

so i got the new 3shoe clutch a little over a week ago and it ran way smoother and much better than the first version 2 shoe. i ran it for about 15 minutes or so but still preferred the longshank direct drive setup. maybe i am just so used to that now. i can see how the clutch could be favored though with the ability to "tap" the throttle for low speed maneuvering around corners. unfortunately i had some parts stolen at the track recently, including my clutches, so i cant run it even if i wanted to now.

but i did have a question. when i put the clutch on, my front tires were really ballooning up huge when i accelerated. i did not think this was due to the clutch at all but when i put the pinion back on they only ballooned about half as much and had to reach much higher speeds to start ballooning whereas with the clutch it was almost immediate. can anyone explain why this would happen? why would the clutch cause more ballooning than my pinion?

also, how hot should the clutch be after running? i had my gear mesh set just normal but when i went to take the clutch off it burned me! is it normal for it to be 150*? or is there something i should have done differently?

Were you running the same number of teeth with the pinion VS. clutch. If your clutch had more teeth, this can be the reason for the ballooning.

150 degrees is normal.

Sorry to hear about your theft.

i ran both a 16t clutch and a 16t pinion. idk, i have heard that thicker center diff fluid can help to reduce the ballooning so i had my center diff fluid at about 30k. when i first saw the tires balloon with the clutch i thought to myself "i must have got it backwards and need to go with lighter fluid" but before i changed fluids i threw on the pinion and things were great. i dont get it. just thought you guys with more clutch experience might know. doesnt really matter though cuz ultimately i still prefer the direct drive but i must say the clutch was a big improvement over the previous design and ran smooth and quiet.

In our experience, guys usually switch to the clutch set-up after getting schooled by a driver running one at the track.

complete 3 shoe set up
 

I'm up and running with an 8T 1.0 kit with the original clutch its working but struggling a little I'm running a 2000kv 80mm medusa on 4 and 5 cells can I get the 3 shoe set up complete with springs shoes and clutchbell from you or Impact
The upgrade deal is great but I think postage would take 2 to 4 weeks from Australia (to send it back and get the upgrade). which is a long time without being able to run my truck I got my 8T as a roller and dont have any clutch parts

Go ahead and purchase the 3-shoe setup. After you receive it, send the old one back with a note referencing your order # and we can make the $10 adjustment (credit) afterward. Thanks.