Has anyone else noticed that the braking profile on the Flux was REALLY weak on first run? I have yet to reprogram it, but it seems to only brake a little more than coasting to a stop would do.

Edit: I pulled up the settings, and the brake was set to 36% (kind of an odd number....) - changed it to 70%. Also changed the timing to zero (was 10%), and put the reverse down to 30%.

I also noticed that the braking was pretty weak. I had to find a careful balance between stopping quickly and not flipping ass over. (Mine was also set to 36%, not sure why.) I set it to about 60% and that seems to work better for me.

I thought mine was just right. As a matter of fact, all the factory settings feel good to me. I do not race however so I may not be as sensitive to the settings as you guys.

Did you run the Stock Pinion or the 25t on these 3s runs, also what C rating are the Zippys you used?

For a 2s guys I recommend www.harrisrc.com

he has a 5000mah 2s 30C Hardcase Lipo with a side exit wire which fits the Flux sweet as.

$100 AUD each - Thats around $65 US!

I honestly dont know what mine are - they are Zippy K's, which haven't been sold in a while. Rumor had it that they were enerland cells, but I have my doubts. And I ran it with the 20T (stock) pinion. I'd rather keep the gearing low if I can.
I bought some Polyquest 2S 6K's. Weather has been too crummy for me to get it out to run.

Tonight I attempted to change to the 25T pinion, so I could try that with 6S batteries. I even pulled out the manual to see how to do it!

First, I removed the screw from the side of the ESC mount, and removed the screw from the bottom ESC mount (per the manual). Dang ESC wouldnt budge. A little more looking and there was a second screw in the side of the ESC mount (NOT depicted in the manual). Well, the only way that screw was coming out was to remove the battery tray. Another seven screws (and the battery tray, and I was finally able to remove the ESC/Mount.

I then tried to decipher the instructions - so I loosened the two top motor clamp screws. Turn the truck over, and loosen the two mount screws. Motor mount wouldnt budge. Scratch my head for a little bit, turn the truck over a couple times, then I finally see the two other mount screws. Loosen those and finally the motor slides to the side.

Then I had to remove the screw holding the spur guard in place (so i could see down inside - and to get room to pull the pinion off).
I then loosened the set screw, slid the motor as far back in the mount as I could, and tried to slide the pinion off. No go...this thing is not going to come off without completely removing the motor!

So thats a total of 14 screws that need to come out to change the pinion.
Maybe I'm too used to my converted Revo, which I can change the gears with only three screws, but this thing gets an F grade on this part. I wont be one of the guys changing pinions while out running.

I'm sure I've read about other people changing the gears, and no one else complained. Am I missing something here - seems awful complicated at this point.

That seems pretty dumb. It is pretty well packed in there tho. Too bad as everything else on the Sav is easy to do. Diffs are cake.

Remove the 4 screws underneath the motor plate. Lift the motor up still clamped in the mount and change the pinion. 10 minutes, done.

This is what happens when an engineer tries to disassemble something :rofl::rofl::lol::lol:.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

After I took it apart, I was wondering if that can be done. Isn't the ESC in the way, though? I havent put it back together yet (wife came home with Teryaki right when I got it apart.....'Nuff said there...), so I'll check that out.

George.....that is so untrue! Its the putting it together part where we tend to really fall on our faces!!!

Truck looks really nice. I would like to do my own Savage conversion, hopefully I can use some Flux parts on my X.